1951 Jowett Jupiter - Recommission

In that case its the vendors lucky day & sadly the purchaser has overpaid approximately £528 too much for it - I've seen much, much better examples of Javelins requiring restoration gifted on a FOC basis before today 

Loads done but little to show for it 



Fuel pump & filter fitted to the new bracketry - this is the original location for the pump on the Jupiter's  



Problem with this location is that the pump gets covered in road debris thrown up form the front wheel and filter is a little vulnerable in this location too 



To afford a little protection to them I fabricated a cover that should prevent the majority of the debris whilst also acting as a guard against the filter 



I made up a pair of brackets from equal angle and welded them at right angles to the chassis then drilled & added revitnuts 



Primed & painted everything up and once cured were fitted 



Removed the remaining fuel pipes from the rear of the car 



I've had the fuel tank standing outside to vent since I removed it from the car - I removed the fuel gauge sender to allow internal inspection - I've come across a lot worse before today - its got some light surface corrosion and little bit of debris in the base - I'm using a cleaner to remove all of this prior to sealing the tank 



Just keep rotating the tank to ensure that all the internal faces are treated 



I had to remove the steering column again to resolve a issue with the horn bridge contact 



The horn bridge is a Lucas product - not produced for many years - hence they have become gold dust - largely constructed from bakerlite and ho so easily broken if you don't handle them with care 



Now sorted and refitted 


 
Handbrake lever which fits under the dash was properly scruffy - had a few sharp edges on it too where someone had messed about with it - cleaned up - then primed / painted 



Mounts to the steering column and can now be refitted 



Not all Jowett chassis were stamped - in the main the cars just carried a chassis / body number on a bulkhead mounted plate - Nice surprise then to find that the chassis on this car is stamped and its matching numbers which is very significant on this car with it having the race history behind it   

Prepped the fuel tank for the sealer 



Removed the supply tubes - one draws from the bottom whilst the other only draws down to about a quarter full tank - this then left a reserve at the bottom of the tank quite a few cars of the period and up into the 1960's had this option - I'll just be using the the one that draws from the bottom and will blank the other outlet off 



Sealer added to the tank and the tank rotated around several times to ensure the sealer covered all internal faces of the tank - Once cured its unaffected by petrol / ethanol - I have cars running around with tanks that I treated 15 years ago hence it's very much a tested product 



Its was left to cure all day 



I then replaced the suction tube and blanked the remining outlet off, I tested the sender unit to ensure that it had a Ohm reading on my meter prior to fitting it - All the gaskets were replaced as a matter of course 



I cut new rubber strips for the tank straps and its now all ready for refitting in the morning 



In other areas of work the clutch pedal arm was removed 



And the elongated hole for the clutch rod was welded up and worked back to reduce the amount of excess travel in the pedal 



The refitted dry and shimmed on the pedal shaft to reduce the end float 



Pedal arm & rod were then cleaned up, primed & painted - once cured I refitted the pedal arm but left the rod unfitted has this will just get in the way until the engine & gearbox are refitted - just temporarily tied the arm back  



Cut new felt pads for the pedal stop to close up against otherwise the pedal arm thuds against the toe board upon its sprung return 



Meanwhile the handbrake link rod was removed then straightened up, then cleaned back, primed & painted 



The handbrake compensator & rods that travel across the rear axle were removed and cleaned of the grease which had virtually solidified



Rear handbrake cable removed 



Along with most of the brake pipes - cue lots of seized bolts / fastenings / clips / rounded off nuts etc - I also removed one of my pet hates 'Steel hose clips used to secure brake pipes to the rear axle tubes' - GRRR - Don't get me started on this one



The 4 way connector that mounts to the chassis at the front simply fell off its mounting once the pipes were disconnected



Handbrake link rod was refitted along with the new rear cable 



And the brake compensator refitted to the rear axle and connected to the new cable 



More tomorrow 

 

Is a 2 pint tin of Por15 enough for most tanks Chris? (At £50 I would hope so) Any special prep work or just a good swirl round with a handful of gravel until the inside looks clean?

Ray if you want a bit more info on the prep etc., I used the same and covered the process I followed on my Celica thread - brm-forum.org/post/6679/thread

Not much to show he says!!!

I dont think it would be too difficult to produce the light collar in cream resin Chris. Might take a little trial and error to get the right resin grade and colour but a silicon mould is easily enough made from a good quality original.

That's some time to be out of action, hope you suffered no lasting damage from the storms.. I'm enjoying seeing what you have done to this.. Its one of those jobs where at the end you will struggle to see what was done under the skin but will be so transformed as a vehicle.. Super job

New starter switch but only available with a black button - I sourced a cream button to match the rest of the switchgear and had to take the switch apart to swap it over



Now fitted to the dashboard switch plate 



With the steering column connected to the rack I could work out what shimming would be required on the pinion - it now needs to comes apart and the shims fitted