I see now. You could have used squares of sterling board (easier to drill to attach to) then ballasted with 6" blocks or sand bags but i doubt that will go anywhere.
Had to Google Sterling Boards as not heard of them. Job done now though.
I now have an undercover work space although it is like a sauna in the current weather.
Thought it would have been darker inside but working without lighting is fine. (in this weather anyway)
Spent the day trying to scrape a combination of tough gooey underseal and something else that is rock hard from the engine bay. Slow progress so paint stripper recommended by Chris has been ordered.
It has had a front end at some time in it's life with rough looking welds so I will grind them and re weld.
On another note I had my 6 month check with the consultant who took me through chemo and radiotherapy for a tumour in my stomach. Test results were ok and he said as it is now 5 years I can consider myself cured because if it was going to come back it would have done so by now. Had the option of being discharged or having yearly checks so opted for the second option. happy days.
sod the nuts and bolts...top news to get the thumbs up from the quack!
if you do find it a bit dim in your tent on cloudy days , the modern led strip lights are really good. cheap to run and produce sod all heat. rigged up on a trailing lead and some hooks you could move it around wherever you need it.
sod the nuts and bolts...top news to get the thumbs up from the quack!
if you do find it a bit dim in your tent on cloudy days , the modern led strip lights are really good. cheap to run and produce sod all heat. rigged up on a trailing lead and some hooks you could move it around wherever you need it.
Was torn between a strip light and an LED rechargeable lamp, either free standing or on a stand. Should be ok initially and I will be looking at options.
Progress on removing all the black wax / underseal from the engine bay. Pictures are from last night and I had hoped to get some epoxy primer on today but spent more time cleaning followed by a scuff down and tomorrow after a check over and a good wipe down some primer will be going on.
One thing I uncovered was the chassis number on the offside inner wing and as expected this was different form the chassis plate and log book. The car has had a front end at some time in the past and this confirmed my suspicion that second hand parts have been used. Don't know whether leave it (probably best) or cover it with a thin skim of filler but that could look dodgy if it ever gets questioned.
Nice tent/garage, Does it make your eyes go funny working in that greenish light?
Haven't noticed a green tinge to the light. It appears very natural and possibly just the camera setting. It is much brighter than I expected and even on a cloudy rainy day I haven't needed artificial light. It is very hot when the sun is out though. Plenty of space all round without having to move the car about.
EDIT. Decided to notice a green tint to the light today. Don't know why I didn't appreciate that before but it is ok to work in. Had the "door" zipped today to try and keep the noise down for the neighbours so that might have affected it.
Otherwise engaged for much of today but got the first coat of epoxy on this afternoon. Was a bit worried about how hot it was but managed to finish what I had mixed just as it went off. Need to turn the car over tomorrow to finish the underside and overcoat any bits I am not happy with. Not easy with all the pressings on the inner wings using a 4" roller and a brush is not giving good results. Going to try cutting the roller down to about 1" for the tricky bits. Should work well if it can actually be cut down.
What a difference a bit of paint makes. Front panel I will do when it comes off the spit and will be black as all these cars seem to be.
Had a break from the front end today and had a look inside the boot. Wish I hadn't bothered and need a big glass of Drambuie now. Cleaned off most of the thick glue which had been securing the carpet.
Nearly all cleaned off.
Oops. Lots of corrosion to cut out.
Not good. I am no expert but whoever did this needs shot.
Other side is much the same.
Other side of the panel from the previous two pictures. Mastic was so thick it was still soft. That is supposed to be the bump stop tower. Same both sides again.
Feeling a bit deflated now. I would rather have had it original and rotten than a botch job by someone. Going to test me to the limits of my ability fixing those two bits. Just getting the underseal off so I can see what is happening is a nightmare. Wheel arch I think I can manage ok eventually.
Right then. Opinions needed for this please as I can not decide if this is safe. I have taken the car off the spit as I need to work, especially on the rear, which I can't do until it is on stands. I have used the base of the spit because it is on wheels and and bolted a couple of uprights and then a diagonal. If the diagonal was welded it would be safe enough but bolted? The front diagonal is top to bottom, left to right and the rear is the opposite but I am still concerned about it tipping left or right. I have enough metal left to make another diagonal going the opposite way and bolt them together where they cross. I could weld the diagonal but prefer bolted so I can sort of flat pack it when finished.
Post by grumpynorthener on Jun 18, 2021 20:58:57 GMT
I'd say that there's a good chance that could twist / fail as you suggest - could you not leave it bolted but just add a tack weld to either side of horizontal brace once the metal was cleaned back - undertake the welds in an area that you can still access with the angle grinder fitted with a thin cutting / slitting disc that would allow you to cut & break the welds once you were complete with the stands ?
I'd say that there's a good chance that could twist / fail as you suggest - could you not leave it bolted but just add a tack weld to either side of horizontal brace once the metal was cleaned back - undertake the welds in an area that you can still access with the angle grinder fitted with a thin cutting / slitting disc that would allow you to cut & break the welds once you were complete with the stands ?
I think I'll weld it just to be safe. As well as my personal safety it could destroy the garage/tent. A job for tomorrow.
A bit of progress I think but not good. Spot welds inside the boot drilled out to release the inner skin of the rear valance. Captive bolts for the bumper brackets were no longer captive so openings made on both sides to sort that.
Rear valance cut behind the bumper. Needs a bit of tidying / straighter cut before making a repair section.
Inner skin of rear valance removed and outer skin still to be cut. A few spot welds which weren't spot welds drilled out hence more holes than necessary. Not easy finding the welds.
Inner wing/rear panel area is a little crusty to say the least. Same on both sides. Large hole in the inner wing is for fuel filler neck and is curved. Not sure how to repair that as it is very thin and holed.
Inner skin of rear valance with evidence of previous bodging.
I have been worried about whether or not the doors would fit in the aperture as I don't think I braced the shell adequately so decided to temporarily fit the offside door and wing today and will do the nearside tomorrow. Not as bad as I though but not good and I had to space the striker out by about 3.5mm before the door would latch. Looks like the shell has sagged front and rear. Other than cutting the outer, centre and inner sills and trying to straighten it before welding again (don't fancy doing that) I might have to try Chris's method of welding some 3mm bar in the door gaps. Swage lines are reasonable.
Post by toomanyprojects on Jun 23, 2021 11:29:14 GMT
Have you replaced the sills since the shell has been lifted Ray? I'm just wondering that if the bottoms look reasonable whether you can wind the gaps back a bit by using an adjustable rod on each side welded to the chassis, something similar to the below (albeit these are Panhard rods but hopefully you get the idea).
Have you replaced the sills since the shell has been lifted Ray? I'm just wondering that if the bottoms look reasonable whether you can wind the gaps back a bit by using an adjustable rod on each side welded to the chassis, something similar to the below (albeit these are Panhard rods but hopefully you get the idea).
I have fitted the nearside door with pretty much the same result as the offside. Large gap at the top rear and top front of the door so looks like it has gone banana shape. I see what you mean with the threaded rod. Do you mean leave them fitted or remove them once the shell is pulled into shape?
Since the shell has been lifted I have replaced most of the outer sill, patched a good chunk of the centre sill and replaced parts of the bottom of the inner sill as well as new floors. Somebody had previously done some of this but just by welding on top of rotten metal. Can't remember what the panel gaps were like before but the doors closed ok so it is my fault.
I was thinking of: Dropping the car down onto 4 normal size axle stands, cutting the outer and inner sill (vertical cuts) but leave the centre sill as it is (hopefully it will just kink slightly). Leave the doors on the car and jack up the rear (or front) until the gaps are acceptable then weld it back together. Possible or crazy?
I
