Ray - Amongst the mountain of tat that I moved yesterday to exhume a Javelin was the this hub cap
Which I think is Peugeot 304 flavour - please advise if you can use (even as a spare) and I'll post it up to you - Its FOC - it came for nothing and don't expect nothing for it - Chris
That's very kind of you Chris. It certainly looks like a 304 hub cap and in wonderful condition. Mine are in the loft at present so I can't easily check. I think I have more then 4 but none that don't have dents to a greater or lesser extent. Thank you.
Some progress on the car since it moved to the barn in the back of beyond. The floor is now in epoxy and will eventually have a coating of Raptor or Gravitex. Also need to get some Dynamat or similar which presumably gets stuck down before the Raptor.
The front of the chassis where the subframe attaches was in poor shape so that was cut out on both sides and replaced with a new reinforcing plate (they all have that). Also added the tab for the front panel lower fixing point, somewhat oversize at present but will be trimmed when the front panel is fitted to ensure correct positioning. Can use a nut and bolt for that but will probably fit a rivnut to the mountings.
Don't have a before pic for some reason but a repair has been made to the inner panel between and rear of the door and the N.S. wheel arch of the N.S. as it was non existant at the bottom.
The front is more or less all in epoxy primer now, just applied with a roller for now but keeps the damp out. A few bits to tidy up then bolt on the wings, play about with the bonnet/wing/scuttle panel gaps and fit rivuts to secure the wings.
It has been painfully cold in the barn so hopefully the weather will start to improve soon.
I have also repaired the wiper linkage mounting and will take pictures of that next time I am out there. Still need to find someone with a lathe to machine a shoulder bolt for that as the size I need doesn't appear to be a common size.
Looking good Ray , just to let you know the chassis is bolted to the body via bolts with nuts so no need to fix a rivnut to the part you have repaired. The cross member is seen ( normally so it should be painted black like the hand brake mounting and don’t forget to have fixing for the seat rails - good luck Vojo
Looking good Ray , just to let you know the chassis is bolted to the body via bolts with nuts so no need to fix a rivnut to the part you have repaired. The cross member is seen ( normally so it should be painted black like the hand brake mounting and don’t forget to have fixing for the seat rails - good luck Vojo
Getting there slowly vojo. The cross member was indeed going to be black eventually. I have all the correct bolts etc for the subframe. The rivnuts I mentioned are for the lower mounting points for the front panel which were rotten on one side and non existent on the other side.
The seat mounting brackets had nuts welded to the underside followed by lots of trial fitting of the seats before the brackets were welded to the car. Pleased to say the seats fit and slide fore and aft correctly.
I need to get on with ordering steering rack boots, steering flector and various body seals so a search through serie04.com, cipere.fr, comptoir-carrossiere.fr etc. is on the cards as they might take time to source.
Ultimately the car will eventually be painted white as I am told that is the best colour to disguise imperfections although I would love to paint it blue or even a metallic blue. Long way off that though.
Not a great deal to report but a small update / recap. A couple of pics previously posted to save you from looking back some pages and as it is now. The under bonnet area was covered in some sort of hard underseal which took literally days to remove and the engine bay was covered in thick sticky underseal which also tool ages to remove.
Finally got it all off and into epoxy primer.
Great for motivation even if the primer has just been put on with a roller.
Working on the rear wheel arch now. One side was done last year so on the other side now.
Post by grumpynorthener on Apr 5, 2023 20:01:54 GMT
Ray - The thick black sticky stuff looks like the car was treated with a rust prevention system when the car was new - they were all the rage in the 70's when the car was new and vehicles were devoid of any anti rust treatment from the manufacture
Ray - The thick black sticky stuff looks like the car was treated with a rust prevention system when the car was new - they were all the rage in the 70's when the car was new and vehicles were devoid of any anti rust treatment from the manufacture
It was pretty clean underneath all the gunge Chris.
Bit more progress on the 304. The rear wing repair panels are now welded in. Front and rear sections hand made and the arch is a BMW 2002 panel with about 38mm cut out the centre and a bit of shrinker / stretcher action, some bending and a lot of swearing. Have done a bit of heat shrinking to cure "oil canning" which actually worked. Still a bit more grinding to do. Got a bit of distortion but acceptable I think and some Upol Fantastic will smooth it out. Got the inner arch to do now and will need to add a few beads of weld on the bottom few inches of the door to close the panel gap a bit.
As I am sure you noticed in the previous picture the panel gap between the door and rear wing was poor.
So today, armed with some YouTube knowledge I called in to my local steel stockholder and bought some 3mm and 5mm round steel bar. An appropriate length was cut and ground down to a bit of a taper and then welded to the car. It was then ground back with the angle grinder and finished off with a mini right angle die grinder. For a first ever attempt I am happy with that. Still needs a little more work but almost there.
Chris if you see this. Somewhere you mentioned about doing this and using a file for finishing. Second or first cut, single or double cut etc? I imagine it would be hard work finishing a mig weld by hand but used lengthwise would give a more accurate result.
Post by grumpynorthener on Apr 22, 2023 8:29:10 GMT
Ray - A decent file will true the edge up and remove any deviation left by the angle / die grinder - I sometimes use a weld bead if it's a short length and if longer use the same rod method that you've adopted
Thanks Chris. The rod method was surprisingly easy but I also had to use a weld bead for a short section. Bit more progress today. A small alteration to the wheel arch and a tweak to the bottom of the panel just behind the door so it aligned better with the cover sill. Then it was a case of applying the UPol fantastic followed by rubbing it down and repeat repeat repeat and it is still not right. Not sure if I need a long flexible block or find someone to do this bit for me. Probably the second option would be best.
Looking at the picture I think I might need to run a weld bead around the middle section of the door as the gap doesn't look quite right. Will look at that tomorrow.
Been along time since I posted an update as been on holiday and also working on the MGC which I will update next week. Probably going to post things out of sync but never mind eh?
Panel gap between the boot and the rear wings closed up quite a bit more than I liked towards the rear so after much head scratching altering the boot lid was ignored and the wings got the chop instead. A 1mm disc was run through and the wing flange tapped over to close the gap which was then welded and filled. Mich better now. Don't have a before pic unfortunately.
Panel gap at the top of the drivers door opened up a bit so I ran a weld bead up that and dressed it back. Needs a little more work but almost there.
Couple of bits of stray wire but it was dark and couldn't see what I was doing.
Boot lid got the paint strip wheel treatment. Took ages (about 7 or 8 layers of paint) and done in sections to keep the heat down. Then the interior got a good scuff to key it for fresh paint.
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Not totally unexpected the rear of the boot lid has some perforation which will be the next thing to be looked at and some accident repair work done I suspect by the same clown that drilled about 6 holes in the nsr wing before slapping filler on.
Hope to get epoxy primer on the back half of the car followed by high build primer maybe next weekend or the week after. Be nice to see some of it looking the same colour.
Cracking on with the shed on wheels as desperate to get the back half in epoxy before next weekend. The doors are surprisingly good for a 49 year old car. There is a bit of a crease in the middle of the ns door and the hinge end needed a small section cut out and new metal welded in due to corrosion in the stiffening plate for the hinges causing the door panel to split slightly. I think that is due to water ingress at the door check strap hole. Bottom of the door and latch panel of the door are perfect.
All sorted with the epoxy primer and Chris recommended fast thinners and waiting to hear back from Chris about the high build primer and top coats as I am totally confused about Acrylic, Synthetic etc.
Nice warm calm day and more importantly dry so got some epoxy on the rear half of the car today. First time with a spray gun and the fan was far too narrow but turned out ok for epoxy. High build primer next, but need to get the panel work on the second door, front wings and bonnet done first. Made a panel stand out of some scrap metal, bit rough and ready but does the job.
Can't remember what I read about epoxy primer. Does it have to be rubbed down within 2 days or left for longer?
Sometime I manage to impress myself. Considering what I started with I am delighted with the panel gaps I have managed to get on the rear wing to door fit.
Front wing to door panel gap is almost there, just a little bit more fettling to do and then they can both get some epoxy primer action.
That is the near side almost ready for high build primer once it is all in epoxy primer to protect it form dampness in the old cow shed.
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