amazing! what do you use to dress it - is it all oak or is there a steel edge?
When I speak of dressing I talk in a general term of using the angle grinder fitted with a flap disc along with other abrasives / power files etc and dressing the panel profiles with the hammer & dolly as required - The timber block that I used as a former is just pieces of offcut timber - the strips of wood are probably a semi hard wood but nothing special
amazing! what do you use to dress it - is it all oak or is there a steel edge?
When I speak of dressing I talk in a general term of using the angle grinder fitted with a flap disc along with other abrasives / power files etc and dressing the panel profiles with the hammer & dolly as required - The timber block that I used as a former is just pieces of offcut timber - the strips of wood are probably a semi hard wood but nothing special
re-reading this I realized I used all the wrong words - sorry - it was this bit of kit that I was asking about:
When I speak of dressing I talk in a general term of using the angle grinder fitted with a flap disc along with other abrasives / power files etc and dressing the panel profiles with the hammer & dolly as required - The timber block that I used as a former is just pieces of offcut timber - the strips of wood are probably a semi hard wood but nothing special
re-reading this I realized I used all the wrong words - sorry - it was this bit of kit that I was asking about:
Ah - That's a beech chasing wedge - manufactured by a company called 'Monument' who supply plumbing equipment - it would normally be used for lead / zinc / copper sheet dressing on the roofs of property - But I use it for all sorts of things where I want to avoid marking / damaging the item - I have a similar wedge in plastic too
Post by grumpynorthener on Jan 8, 2022 20:26:27 GMT
With the welded repairs now complete I refitted the wing back to the car for checking the alignment
A few minor tweaks and then I went over it with the DA to key the surface back
Some minor areas were subject to the hammer & dolly in order to true them up
Then the initial skimming of the profiles
Then worked / sanded back by hand
Prior to a second application
Again worked back
Still requires a few more skims before its completed but its now well on its way - note that I have left the wing attached to the car - this makes working the profiles so much easier when the panel is attached to something solid rather than having attempting to maintain its loose position on a panel stand whilst you work the profiles
Post by grumpynorthener on Jan 8, 2022 20:39:47 GMT
Something else that I've been falling over for long enough is this Javelin - I'm on a mission this year to free up some of the space both at the workshop and at the barn - In order to achieve this I'm going to have place some momentum behind projects like this rather than just having them hanging around taking up the space that I need
This one just needs a handful of problems sorting on it - main one being is that I have already had it running but there's one hell of a noise being emitted from the engine bay - Jowett engines are known for sticking valves so this was the first port of call - all clean & in order on this side and likewise for the other side
Next was to check the clutch operation has these tend to seize
A few mins work soon had this issue sorted
Turning the engine over by hand with the starting handle I could still hear the noise but much quieter than when the engine is running
Well would you believe it
Dynamo looks recent too
But that front pully looks to be oversize when compared to another car but not by much
A bodged engine mounting (top) cant be helping - fortunately I have a correct one in stock (bottom)
Engine mounting fitted
A slight reduction of the frame bracket on the inner wing
And I might have just resolved the problem - So a combination of factors - Someone had fitted a replacement dynamo with a slightly oversize pully, A incorrect engine mounting was placing the engine over to one side slightly and if you look at the last image above I think that the front inner wing area has made contact at some stage in its life and distorted the frame slightly (this I will straighten up) - All resulting in the dynamo pully making rotational contact with the frame of the inner wing and making one hell of racket - hopefully once I have run the engine up and checked that its in order - I can progress the other minor jobs on the car prior to placing it to the market
re-reading this I realized I used all the wrong words - sorry - it was this bit of kit that I was asking about:
Ah - That's a beech chasing wedge - manufactured by a company called 'Monument' who supply plumbing equipment - it would normally be used for lead / zinc / copper sheet dressing on the roofs of property - But I use it for all sorts of things where I want to avoid marking / damaging the item - I have a similar wedge in plastic too
Delron is great for this type of thing. You can cut a piece to the profile you want and then use the 2 pieces as a die and block to hit against to create the profile.
re-reading this I realized I used all the wrong words - sorry - it was this bit of kit that I was asking about:
Ah - That's a beech chasing wedge - manufactured by a company called 'Monument' who supply plumbing equipment - it would normally be used for lead / zinc / copper sheet dressing on the roofs of property - But I use it for all sorts of things where I want to avoid marking / damaging the item - I have a similar wedge in plastic too
Ah - That's a beech chasing wedge - manufactured by a company called 'Monument' who supply plumbing equipment - it would normally be used for lead / zinc / copper sheet dressing on the roofs of property - But I use it for all sorts of things where I want to avoid marking / damaging the item - I have a similar wedge in plastic too
Post by grumpynorthener on Jan 9, 2022 21:33:11 GMT
Other progress that I got completed yesterday
Front brakes adjusted, clutch inspection cover refitted, checked everything over for wear, tolerance & tightness then greased up all the front lubrication points
After adjusting the brakes I noticed a fluid leak from the offside front drum so something is amiss with one of the 2 cylinders - I need my drum puller to proceed further with this but the puller is currently out on loan to another Javelin owner - I think I have a spare at the barn so I'll make arrangements to call over there tomorrow and collect it - I need something else from the barn so it wont be a wasted trip
Front bumper is fairly tarnished and its been to battle at some stage in its life
I just happen to have a decent used pair in stock
So the old one was removed and the better one fitted
Looking a little smarter - probably wont add any value to the car but will certainly make the car more saleable
The rear bumper is incorrect for this later car and was only fitted to the early models
Its also bowed in the centre
New (used) rear bumper of the correct type fitted
Spent some time sorting out the choke linkages which were sticking
They also have to be balanced - its a bit a faff because they are operated from a arm that is located at the deepest recess of the bulkhead behind the radiator and to state that the access is difficult would be a wide understatement
The air feed tubes should have a rubber / mesh housing on them to prevent any foreign object falling down into the carbs
The clubs spares department stocks them and they are quickly fitted
With the rear of the car raised I adjusted the brakes - well on the nearside I did - Offside was binding heavily
I had my rear drum puller to hand hence the drum was removed - just looks like the dust / rust needs cleaning off
On the jobs list for tomorrow
Underside is rock solid & incredibly clean
All the lubrication points were greased along with all the clevis pins / yokes on the rear brake linkages
And the battery has gone on charge overnight - more tomorrow
Post by grumpynorthener on Jan 11, 2022 22:26:53 GMT
Needed to sort both the bonnet alignment and the opening catch
Alignment done with alteration on the hinges
Bonnet pull & catch is a different storey - The welded bracket for the cable is very weak - looks like the car has received quite a lot of water ingress at some stage in its life from the windscreen rubber and this has allowed rust to develop on the base of the dashboard frame which is all steel
I had to remove part of the gauges to allow access but this also requires the lowering of the steering & gearshift columns - I welded a piece of equal angle to the cable bracket & dash frame to strengthen the bracket / area
Bonnet release cable is frayed & binding tightly - I have a rebuilt one in stock - I retain the original knobs and send them for new inner & outer cables to be fitted
Repainted the bracket area then refitted the dash & columns along with the new release cable
Catch now working as it should
Spare wheel should be stowed under the boot floor
But the spare wheel cage is missing
I have a used one in stock that came with a load of other parts
However its been chopped about a bit - but I can readily repair it
Had a rummage through my other spares and found the screw pillar that lowers & raises it too
A little fabrication / welding / dressing back later
Then fitted
Just a matter of winding the thread up or down to stow or access it
Wheel brace fits the nut
Spare wheel now in its stowed position and another job off the list
Connected the battery, primed the fuel - checked the engine fluid levels - choke out - ignition on and it started virtually instantly - adjusted the idle speed once the choke was back in - very sweet little engine and of course the original noises that it made through the dynamo pully are long gone
Checked though the lights - fronts are fine - rears were playing up
Brake lights initially had no power to the switch - dirty connections to the fuse was traced - once cleaned up they worked but the switch is sticking
Usual problem - the spring becomes weak & dirt ingress fouls the contacts & pins etc
I left it to soak in contact cleaner and will refit it tomorrow - other things were checked / sorted - horn is good - charging light required a little attention before it commenced working - I need to sort the semaphore indictors - they are not working at all - nor is the fuel gauge but I think that's just a under dash wiring connection - nearly there
Post by justforthepics on Jan 11, 2022 22:53:08 GMT
Awesome work. I had to rebuild the semaphores on the Daimler, they are an interesting bit of kit. Not much to them but unless it is all perfect they either wont open or they wont close properly. I hope for your sake its just electrical
Awesome work. I had to rebuild the semaphores on the Daimler, they are an interesting bit of kit. Not much to them but unless it is all perfect they either wont open or they wont close properly. I hope for your sake its just electrical
I've got to do the same on the ones for the '7 at some stage, even though it's been fitted with slightly more modern bullet lights located carefully for where the modern motorist will be looking (I hope!), it'd be nice to get them up and functioning as intended, there are even some LED inserts now available which make them even more visible.
Awesome work. I had to rebuild the semaphores on the Daimler, they are an interesting bit of kit. Not much to them but unless it is all perfect they either wont open or they wont close properly. I hope for your sake its just electrical
I've got to do the same on the ones for the '7 at some stage, even though it's been fitted with slightly more modern bullet lights located carefully for where the modern motorist will be looking (I hope!), it'd be nice to get them up and functioning as intended, there are even some LED inserts now available which make them even more visible.
Not only are LED inserts available but bulbs are available that also flash as a indicator whilst the semaphore is in the out position - available here
Post by grumpynorthener on Jan 13, 2022 10:50:16 GMT
Sorted the brake light switch & refitted it but added another spring to it to ensure it returned to the off position correctly - its a pain to access in the tight underfloor area that is mounted to
Bonnet striker post was off centre and was effecting the opening of the bonnet by the pull release cable - I'd already attempted to account for this with adjustment on the hinges but it wasn't really cutting the mustard - I removed the post and the welded nut to the underside of the frame - elongated the mounting hole over to the nearside in order to centre the post with the bonnet (No side to side adjustment available on the bonnet catch itself) - The threads on the post were goosed so with these chopped off and new a new threaded section welded & dressed back - relocated the post sideways and once in the correct position welded the nut on the underside of the frame in a permanent position - lots of faff but issue resolved and prevents the cable from becoming strained or broken - I'll paint in the bare metal areas once I'm on to the minor cosmetics
Semaphore indicators - offside is wired in but not working - nearside not wired in & not working when power is supplied to it - they can be rebuilt but circa £250 for the pair - I would then have to remove part of the headlining on the nearside to wire it in - the alternative is for me to remove the semaphores and I can have a go at bringing them back to life - I have a box of spares but from previous experience it takes hours and carries no guarantees - whilst they are a nice original touch semaphores are foreign in modern traffic conditions with a majority of drivers unaware of what or where there are - Has they are looking to the outside corners of the vehicle for the indicating signal and not the centre pillars of the car where the semaphores are located
The Javelins are of an age where semaphores were the only direction signals fitted - Many have been converted over the years - when this car was restored new rear lamps were fitted in place of the originals these being from a VW Beetle - wiring from the dashboard had been threaded through when the headlining was replaced but the indicators had never been wired in - opting to not to use the semaphores but reuse the switch I added a flasher relay then wired up the rear lamps
So that's the rear indicators sorted - Fronts are normally wired into the front side lamps
Currently these are single pole bulbs / wiring
I've run the wiring in and have new double pole bulb holders on order - led double lamps are now available that carry the side lamp & amber for the indicator which are also on order
Switch panel back together - the indicator switch illuminates when in use - The rotating side & head lamp knob that fits around the ignition key switch is missing - thankfully they are available & inexpensive hence that is also on order - I've since cleaned the switch gear up a little and it presents much better
Its a long time since I had something in the workshop with so many electrical faults - wipers didn't work - traced to the fact that were incorrectly wired in
Resolved & now working - Heater fan didn't work either - traced and just required the connections cleaning up - now working
Fuel gauge fault rectified and now working - the ammeter is non original and not even wired in - I'll just be leaving that as is and let the new owner decide its fate
When restored the car had a new head lining fitted buts its never finished off
It just requires a trim to finish it and a little adhesive around the rear window to reattach it - Thought I would have this finished yesterday but the usual job / project creep came out to play - don't know where the day goes to be honest - more later
Post by grumpynorthener on Jan 13, 2022 22:16:59 GMT
Headlining around the rear window sorted
Then a hidem trim added to finish the head lining edges off
Access panels under the rear seat
These originally were ply but have been replaced in alloy sheet when the car was restored
They are neither fastened down or have a sealed edge
Neoprene foam edge applied to both panels
Then fastened down
Soundproofing felt added
And the rear seat refitted
Sound proofing also added to the boot floor
Along with the toolbox tray
Then finished with a ribbed rubber matting trimmed in to size
Seal that should be around the inner edge of the boot lid is missing
New seal fitted and will prevent water ingress into the boot space
I've now started to progress the cosmetics - polished bonnet against the unpolished nearside wing
Offside front wing & door along with the offside front quarter of the roof have all been first stage polished
I've given the bonnet a second stage polish and its come up pretty well - It's a older restoration and the paintwork is probably a non professionally applied finish - but it presents with a nice patina - it will need a few areas touching in but in general it will make a nicely presented little car - more tomorrow
Fabulous! About the metal access panels on the seat - would it not be better to return to wood, given that there are battery terminals underneath? I realize it looks very very solid but, time and a portly passenger could cause a hot seat.