I think the battery is quite a bit below the cover, and one of the terminals has a cover over it, so it's probably fairly safe. Hard to tell the distance from the photo.
Post by grumpynorthener on Jan 14, 2022 22:05:00 GMT
Continued to work my way around the car with a first stage polish
Then starting again with a second stage polish
All the minor paint defects / stone chips were touched in once complete - In other news it looks like the battery wont hold its charge for more than 24 hours regardless of it being connected / unconnected so I'll arrange to replace it
Bulb holders turned up so we now have working indicators all round
And the knob for the sidelamp / headlamp switch also arrived and is now fitted - final few jobs tomorrow prior to a road test
Post by grumpynorthener on Jan 16, 2022 12:11:08 GMT
I was aware that the front screen had been leaking slightly so this got resealed
Then I took the car outside to wash the engine bay down - it wasn't that bad but certainly could be improved upon
Back into the workshop & dried off and its looking pretty decent for a 70 year old engine bay
The alloy fins on the grilles had heavily oxidized and needed cleaning up
One of them was also fractured
I had some spare fins hence it got replaced
A good cleaning up session with several grades of scotchbrite later
The white raised digits on the front number plate had for some reason yellowed significantly and didn't match the crisp white on the rear plate - so there were removed & repainted
Post by grumpynorthener on Jan 16, 2022 19:27:40 GMT
Valet & road test completed - sadly its not good news the engine smokes very badly under load - I personally don't want to get involved with a engine rebuild (which I outsource anyway) - The car belongs to a late club member who's family requested that I find a new home for it - I'm going to advertise as a project requiring engine work and price it accordingly but it's scrubbed up pretty well
Soon to be found in the 'Projects for Sale' section
Looking lovely. I don't think she will be for sale for very long.
It does indeed look lovely. I could have been tempted if I didn't have the old 304, if I had a garage empty enough to fit it in, if I could afford it etc. Talking about the 304 I did actually do a little bit to it today so a report will be forthcoming by the weekend I hope.
Post by grumpynorthener on Jan 20, 2022 21:10:56 GMT
A certain 3 wheeler owing BRM member delivered this Scimitar bonnet to the workshop today
Its carries a handful of paint defects which detract from what otherwise is a nice car
The paint was very poorly adhered to the primer
So much so that I was able to remove all the colour coat with a single edge blade
In some areas it came off in large patches
There's no way would I trust the exposed primer and opted to remove that too
A light DA sanding with P180 discs soon removed it
There's some poor previous repairs that need sorting
Cracks either side where a bonnet rubber is stressing the panel
Previous repair has seen others attempt to chase the crack out and then fill it with a bridging filler which is never going to work
And on the opposite side just a smear of filler over the crack - again this is never going to work
These I have chased back and reduced down into the fibreglass
These I build back up with a fibre tissue & resin laid on in layers - once I have the strength built back in the areas I can then correct the profiles with a skimming filler
Ray - Its a Lechler product which is a solvent based zinc primer - I suppose you could call it a construction primer equally a transit primer / base primer - there to keep the rust off the bare metal until the panel gets fitted / prepped for paint
Chris - A very basic workshop question, but when you are mixing F/G resin, in view of the ratios of the mix (something like 50:1ish), how do you measure the quantity of catalyst/hardener so that it doesn't go off in 2 minutes flat or even not go off at all. Never mind batch to batch consistency. I see it done on yootoob but how does the 'professor' do it?
Chris - A very basic workshop question, but when you are mixing F/G resin, in view of the ratios of the mix (something like 50:1ish), how do you measure the quantity of catalyst/hardener so that it doesn't go off in 2 minutes flat or even not go off at all. Never mind batch to batch consistency. I see it done on yootoob but how does the 'professor' do it?
Purely by sight and nothing else (it only takes a couple of duff batches to learn)
Post by grumpynorthener on Jan 25, 2022 21:58:36 GMT
Back to the village hall duties - myself & Den (close neighbour with a nice TR6) had a day of it on Sunday
Several tasks on the list - sort the non working lights out in the small hall which was a simple fix
Install a timed switch in the disabled WC to prevent users from forgetting to turn it off - should have been a simple fix but wasn't for various reasons
Reroute the plug for amplified audio from the opposite side of the door frame to the same side has the projector controls to prevent trailing leads along with the same exercise with a 13amp socket - some further rewiring of audio amplifier / PA system along the audio induction loop for those that use hearing aids
Main agenda for the day though was to route a new power supply in to the outer face of the brickwork adjacent to the porch for the main doors, No small undertaking in the respect that we have to route up into the loft then across to the main consumer units - lots of balancing on the rafters because all of the halls ceilings are suspended
And here comes the reason for the new power supply - Its a defibrillator cabinet or AED for the tech's - it requires power for lighting and to maintain a ambient temperature to ensure that cabinet door seal doesn't freeze shut - I think that defibrillator requires to be maintained above a certain temperature too
Powered up
Which just left me to commission the actual unit - We have made it available for community use so its now registered with the ambulance service and they direct anyone to collect the defib with the lock code should it be required
I'm just ordering a small sign to go onto the gate pillar that indicates that its a AED location - the defib & cabinet are not overly expensive to purchase (£1800) and we managed to obtain some matched funding which helped
A telling indictment on our society that a life saving piece of equipment which when needed is needed more or less immediately by whoever's near simultaneously has to be guarded against theft, vandalism & so on
A telling indictment on our society that a life saving piece of equipment which when needed is needed more or less immediately by whoever's near simultaneously has to be guarded against theft, vandalism & so on
Not that it will stop them trying. I really despair at the attitude of the retarded element of society these days!