Not sure if that’s a good sign 🤣. My lasercutter often puts in extra bits if they think the quality of one of the parts isn’t good enough. Only ordered one blank to dry deck the block, had two supplied. Hopefully it doesn’t mean I will need another block shortly 🤣🤣
So whats it for? to make a dry deck?
The top of the sleeves are unsupported at the moment. I will machine the block and machine the profile to suit with a suitable interference fit.The head and the block will be modified accordingly, water will flow through the block, around the sleeves to the back of the block then up to the head and back to the front of the engine. The cylinder head gasket only seals compression, not water. So if you get overly greedy with boost and blow the head gasket,you lose compression.You don’t pressurise the cooling system and blast water all over your front tyres, leading to a hedge / van interface
What about using wills rings? You have probably already thought about that and discarded the the idea but would it not work well?
Wills rings, fire rings or o ringing the block all help create a better seal. In the event of any of them failing, you still will land up with a pressurised cooling system and more often than not, water all over your front wheels. If no water is present at that interface, you take away one potential hazard. It will be o ringed anyway or possibly wills rings made out of phosphor bronze as the coefficient of expansion is higher for that than aluminium so it will seal better the hotter it gets.
Managed to find a nice ,light ,steel flywheel. Made some remark about AP racing twin plate clutches being pretty expensive these days and promptly got given this setup
Well, that’s not entirely true, the clutch plate I bought to see if it fits the splines. The problem with buying bits all separately as opposed to say a complete engine and gearbox, is there are always parts you are unsure of. The gearbox input shaft splines being one of them. Google is all fine and well, but sometimes you do wonder. The splines, according to google ,are 7/8”x20. Now, that’s where I start getting nervous, as 7/8” is only 0,225mm bigger than 22mm and why would a Japanese company be using an imperial sized spline on a fully metric gearbox? Metric bolts, metric bearings etc? Did the person who measured the splines, actually measure properly? Were they old school imperial, used to measuring in Twelfty thirds and assumed, after measuring with a cheap and nasty plastic vernier gauge,that it was 7/8”? Well, for the price of a clutch plate it was worth a chance,just to check. And, in this case, truth is stranger than fiction…the Japs did indeed use an imperial sized input shaft on this gearbox. Bizarre….
Lasercut pattern turned up. All holes line up perfectly, but I think the oval cut outs where the crank webs pass through whilst the crankshaft is turning need to be enlarged slightly. They clear,but only just!
These little engines like to rev. Due to the nature of the car, you were never going to find a one lady owner , never been raced or rallied example. The guy I bought this one supposedly bought it from some bigwig on one of the Suzuki forums. It wasn’t what he had expected, so stripped it to find out why. It was well knackered and he never rebuilt it.
If it’s been revved often south of 10 000 rpm, the blocks twist. The Peurto Ricans get 450-500hp out of these engines at about 11000rpm, but they all have a 10mm reinforcement plate between the block and the sump to stop it twisting.
Should really get the other block I bought and see what that’s like before going much further, but with it needing a line bore, it does unleash a couple of posiibilities that I wouldn’t entertain if it didn’t . It may be a blessing in disguise
Well, all the holes were cut in the template size for size. Everything fits perfectly. Cut outs for the crankwebs to be enlarged
Also got a set of under piston spray jets I will need to fit. Going from the standard forged rods to H beam ment there is no longer an oil way from the big end to the small end of the conrod. The block lends itself to fitting these as there is a gallery with bosses cast in the block. I just need to drill and tap them. Found these secondhand as I think they have a pressure valve in them, they won’t squirt under low oil pressure conditions. Would have thought it wouldn’t be too much to ask of the seller to clean the oil out of them before sending…guessi was wrong 🙄
My Ian Carter built 998cc Imp race engine that I used in the Clan had a block strengthening plate between the block and the sump with solid spacer blocks between the plate and the main bearing caps so the main bearing cap bolts were bolted up along with the plate. Those engines would rev to 10,000rpm when necessary although I tended to change up at 9,000rpm
My Ian Carter built 998cc Imp race engine that I used in the Clan had a block strengthening plate between the block and the sump with solid spacer blocks between the plate and the main bearing caps so the main bearing cap bolts were bolted up along with the plate. Those engines would rev to 10,000rpm when necessary although I tended to change up at 9,000rpm
That was my initial plan, to fabricate a block strengthening plate between the block and the dry sump. However… seeing this block is in need of a line bore, I am toying with the idea of making a complete one piece bearing block girdle to replace the separate main bearing caps . Not fully decided yet. Want to look at the other block that is in need of collection in Derbyshire first before committing to that idea. If that block also needs a line bore, then you know which direction I will most likely take 🤣
My Ian Carter built 998cc Imp race engine that I used in the Clan had a block strengthening plate between the block and the sump with solid spacer blocks between the plate and the main bearing caps so the main bearing cap bolts were bolted up along with the plate. Those engines would rev to 10,000rpm when necessary although I tended to change up at 9,000rpm
That was my initial plan, to fabricate a block strengthening plate between the block and the dry sump. However… seeing this block is in need of a line bore, I am toying with the idea of making a complete one piece bearing block girdle to replace the separate main bearing caps . Not fully decided yet. Want to look at the other block that is in need of collection in Derbyshire first before committing to that idea. If that block also needs a line bore, then you know which direction I will most likely take 🤣
That second option sounds like a pretty solid bottom end. Looking forward to your progress on that.
Haven’t had a chance to fetch the other block yet, probably will only happen in a couple of weeks time. Did start looking at something else much longer term for the van….🤔 Just to satisfy my curiosity 🤣🤣