Ooh, this takes me back - helped a pal reshell his F reg roadster in his single car council garage. We started looking at the rust all the way round, totted up the panels/time required and he ended up buying one of the first shells that BMH made. Still needed some work, but was a lot quicker!
When I saw the rot in the lower front corner of the door I wondered if you would patch or reskin it Chris. Are you likely to have to realign stuff once the door's reskinned or are the skins good enough that swage lines will align still?
Doors are getting reskinned - the door bottom on the frames are pretty dead too so I have just ordered new door frame bottoms - Its a worthwhile exercise has new doors are in excess of £500 - I can repair the frame then place the skin on to it loosely then adjust it to the best fit prior to making the skin permanent to the door frame - it will still require some mods with the door / door aperture before I'm happy with the aperture gapping
Post by grumpynorthener on May 25, 2021 21:55:02 GMT
New jacking point fitted to the offside
Nearside also needs one and I have ordered it today
With the bracing removed I dressed back the welds at the front of the floorpan - the joints will be seam sealed on both sides once I get to that stage - decision is yet to be made on the type of sound deadening that will be fitted once the inside of the bodyshell is painted but its going to need something to soften the cockpit noise to an acceptable level - several other minor areas of welding were undertaken such as blanking the holes that I drilled for bolting the temporary bracing up to
Defective area of the front inner wing removed
Fresh steel fabricated & welded in
Then dressed back
Inner wing reinforcement / trumpet panel would not line up at first (or so I thought)
But then checked the alignment on the removed section only to find out that I have it in the same position as the original - for some reason it dips down on the offside rather running in line with the top edge of the inner wing like it does on the nearside
So in it went
I managed to salvage the cage nuts from old section of the inner wing and transfer them over to the freshly repaired section
All looks neat enough for something that no one will ever see once the outer wing is fitted
That just left a few set nuts to fit to the vertical edge
Which the inner wing splash guard fastens up to
That's all the important structural side of the things sorted - now on to a few conversion related matters then then the external panel work
Inboard and above the sections you have been working on the shell looks really tidy chris. Even with what you have found it was pretty good base.
Pete - Exactly why Sam thought this shell was the good option - it has its faults (now corrected) but show me a 45 year motor that's had a life that hasn't particularly suffered from rust ingress (with exception of the ones that's been retained in a heated garage and covered no wet miles)
With the bracing removed I dressed back the welds at the front of the floorpan - the joints will be seam sealed on both sides once I get to that stage - decision is yet to be made on the type of sound deadening that will be fitted once the inside of the bodyshell is painted but its going to need something to soften the cockpit noise to an acceptable level - several other minor areas of welding were undertaken such as blanking the holes that I drilled for bolting the temporary bracing up to
Cockpit noise levels to an acceptable level? With the engine that is being fitted good luck with that lol. Need to do something to stop the house windows rattling.
Post by grumpynorthener on May 26, 2021 12:53:56 GMT
Interesting about that front trumpet - factory anomally do we think, or purposely designed that way?
I think its purposely designed that way - the front nose of the trumpet is pretty narrow at the point that retains 2 captive nuts for some type of mounting to the inner wing - so it looks like the trumpet panel is lowered slightly so it doesn't foul the captive nuts or the studs travelling through nuts
Just checked from some reference images on other cars - it looks like some type of a relay box - but this maybe / maybe not be required - anyhow I'm happy if you are happy with it
Post by grumpynorthener on May 26, 2021 21:27:53 GMT
Great thing about using a late rubber bumper bodyshell is that some of the hard work is already done if you are going down the V8 engine route - these rebates between the chassis legs and the bulkhead give that all important additional space factor that allows you to shoehorn the V8 into the bay - earlier cars require modification in this area
Engine mountings are in the correct place too so that's another tick in the box
Now the bad news the bodyshell for the rubber bumper car carries quite different bumper mounting points with revisions to the front of the chassis legs - there are conversion brackets available if you want a rubber to chrome bumper conversion and its sort of ok - but given the standards that this car is being built to we wont be using conversion brackets
Instead we will be modifying the the front of the chassis legs to accept the original type of chrome bumper mounting on original bumper irons
Which requires the installation of captive nuts into the chassis legs (not the 2 that you see in the image)
Which requires the removal of both the upper & lower bumper brackets on the chassis legs - its fairly thick steel and care is required in order not create damage to the surrounding panels whilst removing the unwanted brackets - Nothing easy here a good number of the spotwelds cant be drilled out easily due to lack of access for the drill - even with my right angle drill I still struggled
Fortunately I have this in my collection of kit - Plasma cutter - I don't use it often but its a very handy piece of kit for jobs like this
And some time later
The brackets were reduced to a pile of scrap
Then the area cleaned up
Radiator mounting panel brackets need to come off the inner wings too - the V8 rad sits much further forward than the original B series 1800 engine
End of the chassis legs gets trimmed back and eventually blanked off with plates
Not sure what bolts up here on the underside of the chassis leg but I managed to get the sheared stud out once I had the nut glowing red with heat - not easy when the nut is captive and its 200mm down inside the chassis rail
I then welded up the areas has required along the sides of the chassis legs / inner wings - these I will clean / dress back in the morning
And corrected some of the abysmal factory welds that had virtually missed the target completely
These reinforcing rings
Fit here
And here
And once the centres are cut out of the inner wings as marked provide the exits on each side for the exhaust headers
New radiator mounting panels - I'm going to leave them off for now - we will dry fit the engine first to confirm the clearances before welding them in
Post by grumpynorthener on May 27, 2021 20:23:55 GMT
Welding on the front inner wings & chassis legs got cleaned back on both sides
Flange edge that the front valance bolts up to requires repair but I want to complete the captive nut conversion for the bumper bar irons first
Once Sam had confirmed the measurements I made up the captive nut trays
Drilled the chassis rail & plug welded the captive nut tray to the chassis rail
Which then allows the bumper iron to be trial fitted
The end of the chassis rail can then be capped with a plate but only once I had ensured that I had removed has much debris / swarf as I possibly could
Aperture hole in the capping plate will be blanked off with a grommet but this allows access for the all important cavity wax injection once the car is painted
Nearside received the same process with the bumper iron
Along with the blanking plate
I noticed that on my images of a new heritage bodyshell that they had added welds around the front end plate of the castle rail
What's good for them is good for us (but note the rust leaching from the seams on a brand new bodyshell)
Found the bracket for the remote oil filter for the engine (This will go in at the same time has the radiator mounting panel once we have the engine dry fitted)
This is a factory fitment on the V8 cars
Offside exhaust header aperture cut
And the reinforcing ring fitted
I have cut the aperture on the nearside but still need to trim it back and fit the reinforcing ring
Post by grumpynorthener on May 29, 2021 8:03:24 GMT
Front tray flange edge repairs - the front valance fastens up to this
Drilled & the set nuts welded in
Front valance trial fitted & the the front bumper irons checked for clearance around the bumper iron apertures in the valance
Jacking point arrived so that got fitted on the nearside - both jacking points require a little reinforcement but I'll wait until the bodyshell returns to the workshop after the dry fit - It will be going onto my roll over jig for the underside to be refinished and I'll undertake any minor welding to areas that I cant currently access easily at that point
Rear closing plate for the offside sill fabricated & welded in - just needs dressing back
Exhaust header aperture trimmed back on the nearside inner wing - my spot welder is playing up and I need to sort a part for it hence I'll weld this in once I have the welder sorted
Door frame bottom repair sections have also arrived - just in time has I'm now commencing the external panelling of shell
Nice job Chris. I fitted an engine stabiliser bar to the front wing as the engine rotated a fair bit. Does the transmission tunnel require modification? I fitted an LT77 and that needed a slightly higher tunnel. You are right about the rubber to chrome bumper brackets. These are crap.
Nice job Chris. I fitted an engine stabiliser bar to the front wing as the engine rotated a fair bit. Does the transmission tunnel require modification? I fitted an LT77 and that needed a slightly higher tunnel. You are right about the rubber to chrome bumper brackets. These are crap.
Peter
Peter - Thanks - stabiliser bar is that like the one in the pic below that I spotted on another car and is it readily available ?
Gearbox wise its having a 5 speed Mazda conversion (I think) but I will get Sam to confirm that - I will complete the bodyshell & panels then its going over to Sam's unpainted who will then undertake a dry build fit up of the car - once completed the car gets stripped again sent for a further dipping process and comes back to me for profiling & paint before finally returning to Sam for fitting up & commissioning
Its good to see the face of the MGB with just those 3 panels bolted up
That wing to door edge gap is the same sort of issue with pattern wings for mk2 Granadas. Only on them its the wing that isnt correctly shaped
Will the door skin replacement get reformed at that portion to reduce the gap?
From experience attempting to reform the edge to reduce the gap is a problem - you largely distort the profile on the curvature on the door skin and also run out of flange edge to fold back over the door frame due to the fact you have extended it - to close the gapping - Its much better to fit the skin has it is and then then extend the skin by adding to it in order to close the gapping - there's a few tricks that make this an easy process that I will detail once I get the doors reskinned / rehung
I haven't logged in for a few days and you have practically finsihed the front end !! Great work Chris, a MGB GT is my next car of choice so really interesting to see what you are letting yourself in for. !!
Post by toomanyprojects on May 31, 2021 12:11:48 GMT
Popped in to see Chris on my way back from Goodwood yesterday and to say he's been busy since my last visit is an understatement. Front end looks so much cleaner with the various escarpments removed and was really good to see the front 'back together' she's starting to look like a car again. I just need to deliver on my side of things now... no pressure then... 🙈😉
Peter, Chris is absolutely correct, this has been waiting in the wings for a while
It should be a straight fit with no tunnel modifications required which would have been the case if I'd gone with the R380 box I originally acquired for the car along with the 3.9.
In terms of steady bar, I have one from Clive Wheatley, should help prolong the life of the engine mounts a little.
Post by grumpynorthener on Jun 1, 2021 20:58:54 GMT
Sid called in early to check on progress
Suitably impressed he returned to his door security & goods inwards duties
Various modifications were undertaken on the front wings
Some of the mods requiring the closing up of the bolt aperture holes by welding small pieces into the apertures
Then refitted
I always fasten every bolt up - chances are there will always one of the fasteners out of alignment or a set nut in the wrong place and quite often there's a dead thread in one of the set nuts - better to find out now than just make assumptions & paint the panel
Front valance lined up fine with the wing on the offside
But not on the nearside
And its a 'Heritage' panel at that
Soon sorted
So that's the wings & front valance sorted
Sam supplied me with a used front bumper for trial fitting
But its seen a life and although I straightened it up there is way too much spring in it for it remain true
Hence its probably better replaced than re-chromed
Next up the bonnet
Sam had managed to locate a alloy MGC bonnet (comes with the power bulge on the nearside)
But its seen a life
Taken some knocks
And has been previously repaired by a blindfolded idiot
With pug not even neatly applied yet alone rubbed down
And the underframe is distorted in various locations
However alloy MGB / MGC bonnets are eye wateringly expensive to purchase new and this came at the right money - I've both seen & repaired worse
I cleaned it back with the DA in order to assess what I had to work with
Its dinged all over but a fair bit of this will come out with careful use of a hammer & dolly
Some areas will be more difficult to access though due to the underframe
And there's a few areas that may require a little welding
The real deciding factor is how well it fits / doesn't fit the car
Sits high against the bulkhead
Carries wide bonnet to wing gaps too but upon checking so does every other MGB
Main problem though is that it sits 20mm higher on the front nearside - exactly where it retains most of its damage - not good
However
Some tweaking later
Gapping is tapering to the rear but I can sort that later
Main problem to sort now is the sitting high at the rear against the bulkhead
If I can get that down in the morning then this bonnet may well live another life - more tomorrow