I can only count my blessings that the stars & moons aligned such that she came home with you! I'm hoping the bodger predated the PO's auction purchase as he seemed a straight guy on the phone, but I guess we'll never know
In any event, thank you - and at least when we get to us all meeting up for a BBQ we won't be short of pan scouring materials! 🤓
Straight guy on the phone turned bodger in reality - These are all fresh repairs within the last year or so hence it happened on his watch - Should have known when he shuck my hand and I spotted the filler under his fingernails
Post by grumpynorthener on May 8, 2022 8:41:55 GMT
Offside front & centre outriggers bolted back insitu
Followed by the running board
The welded repair areas had seam sealer applied to them
And once cured had Dinitrol underbody wax applied to them
With the fuel tank / lines / pump now refitted and the internal tank treatment now cured (takes 4 days) - I filled the tank with 20 litres of E5 and undertook a static leak test
Whilst the electric pump that came with the car made lots ticking pump type noises it achieved sod all in the way delivering fuel to the carburettor
I released the supply line to the pump and pressurised the tank to ensure that fuel could be delivered to the pump which it did - duff pump then - I found another pump in my used spares stash and tried that - which in turn delivered fuel to the carb
But the carb even in static mode leaks like a sieve - Its been happening a long time too - loads of fuel staining all over the manifolds - spent forever researching for info / parts / rebuild kit for the carb - All I could find was a mixture screw - Then I stubbled across someone that had a listing for a new old stock carb - priced at a small fortune but still might just get the car back on the road - Unfortunately when I made the enquiry the following morning the carb sold a few years ago and the vendor had not updated their online listing - might be able to recondition the old carb if I send it to him but no promises and in any case couldn't look at for the next few months / maybe never was the impression I was left with from the phone conversation - I just don't know how these guys stay in business !!!!
I'm no carburettor specialist but I removed & part stripped the carb - Its no surprise that someone had been here before me - the emulsion block was leaking against the face of the float chamber - I cleaned the faces up and managed to salvage the gasket - found some better screws in my spares stash to gain a better purchase when tightening them up - Fortunately the needle valve for the float chamber is identical to the ones fitted in the Zenith VM30 carbs on the Jowetts which I keep in stock hence that got replaced
One of the manifold gaskets was missing too - Using the old one for pattern I made up a new pair - manged to shim the majority of the wear / play out of the spindle & linkage too
Refitted - under static pressure test - just a small weep on the steel pipe to the banjo which was resoldered - All looks good otherwise - Just got to hope that it runs ok now
So the backstory - which is really very simple - when I was knee high to a grasshopper in the early (very early!) 70s Dad got the twin of this car, albeit a 48 - KNN 992 from memory. We did everything in it - pottered, went on full blown family camping holidays with a 5 man tent in a trunk on the open boot, the full 9 yards
I always had an eye out for one - ours was £200 & I think sold for £400 early 80s time - but people seemed to think they were worth a mint. Last enquired about a gorgeous green one but 'not for sale'!
Then this popped up on an Austin Counties FB page for a third of what people were asking, it was the 'true homage' colour scheme and the vendor seemed a lovely bloke, so I did the deal by phone (for a quarter, natch!
Then Chris had a trailer full of fresh air to drag south, & the rest is history! 🤓
Post by grumpynorthener on May 9, 2022 20:37:58 GMT
The rubber bushes for the shock absorber arms & links look like they have been on the car from new
Needless to say that they are completely goosed - For a car that was built in volume - shared lots of drivetrain & chassis parts with the pre war versions along with the post war 12HP / FX 3 taxi plus other models in the Austin range of vehicles - You would think that there would be a couple of parts suppliers or the club supporting the parts supply issues but unfortunately not - little technical detail available too
After loads of research I finally located a bush that 'Superflex' offered in their universal range - correct OD & correct length but oversize ID - but bushed down to suit the link end and we have a winner
This is the rear offside refitted
Just the nearside rear & the fronts to do
Ends of the links had worn oval in places
I built these back up with weld and then profiled them back to suit
Then refitted
Sid called in to say that its time that this one was gone and that the queue of other motors waiting to come into the workshop was getting a little long
Of course he undertook his quality inspection at the same time - the offside sill made the grade
And everything else appears ok but thinks it might be a good idea to lower the exhaust slightly to give it a little more clearance against the chassis
Meanwhile this bodged wing stay on the nearside front was sorted
Words fail me
Problem solved
I'll paint the coach bolt head in once I have the recommissioning completed
Engine was run up to temperature - its starts readily - its little noisy on the tappets but not overly - plenty of oil was burning off the exhaust manifold - it appears to have had a recent gasket fitted to the rocker box so that answers the oil on the manifold issue
Charging light remains on when running - dynamo is showing charge when I place the meter to it - looks like the regulator box is the culprit then
And all the insulation on the wiring to the box is dead
I had another regulator in my spares stash which appears to be ok
I removed the broken insulation and sleeved it with heat shrink as I worked through the connections to the new box
Oh and once completed I'll send this link to the PO - I've actually no regrets as it's a car I wanted for very sensible money, but it doesn't harm to show the difference between fixing & fixing!
She won't know herself! As ever a million thanks Chris
Nearly, nearly done - hopefully the charging fault is now sorted - I need to slightly alter one of the exhaust brackets, rest of the electrics need a quick check for operation / lights etc - there is a little rewiring required on the rear number plate light - just the rear brake shoes (they called me today to say that were completed and were with a return courier) Engine oil is fresh from the previous ownership (hopefully its proper engine oil) - I will check the gearbox & rear axle oils tomorrow
She won't know herself! As ever a million thanks Chris
Nearly, nearly done - hopefully the charging fault is now sorted - I need to slightly alter one of the exhaust brackets, rest of the electrics need a quick check for operation / lights etc - there is a little rewiring required on the rear number plate light - just the rear brake shoes (they called me today to say that were completed and were with a return courier) Engine oil is fresh from the previous ownership (hopefully its proper engine oil) - I will check the gearbox & rear axle oils tomorrow
Perfect, thanks dear boy. I've got to go to France next week - might take her
Post by grumpynorthener on May 10, 2022 22:54:02 GMT
With the old regulator removed it became obvious that it had been messed with recently - look at the chewed up screwheads above the coils - once you start messing with these chances are that it wont work again
I always salvage what I can off the scrap ones though - the brass screws & the original Lucas cover are no longer available
Started the car this morning and the ignition / charge light went straight out - did a quick meter test and we are back in a charging position
I need to sort some type of a battery clamp out - whatever was there before is now missing
But also need to sort this lead out which lacks insulation and could readily earth against the bulkhead (car is positive earth - they all were in those days)
Traced the wire through to the rear of the instrument panel where it supplies power to the starter button
Panel was half hanging out and someone had been there recently - the speedo cable was missing in its connection to the speedo head
Removed the heater box shielding
Then located / recovered the end of the speedo cable and connected it back to the head - starter button rewired and the instrument panel could be refitted
This could now be binned
Replaced by this much safer option
Battery bracket in the making
Completed / painted & fitted - note the mounting plate for the battery master switch which is due into stock tomorrow - I would always recommend a master switch on anything of this age especially if its still running its original wiring harness but that aside its a good anti theft deterrent and can save no end of hassle with battery drain / flat battery etc - The battery box had a quick clean up prior to the battery being refitted - nothing special just a little adhesive on the sound deadening along with a quick squirt of stain black around the tatty areas
More bodgery of the finest order - Its recently had the choke cable replaced - the dashboard end of the cable is glued insitu with some black sealant - just absolute laziness - the cable is also a solid wire and is jarring - I tried to reuse it
But once I had cleaned it up the ferrules of the dashboard end just fell apart - the sleeve is alloy and the collar brass - I have no way of attaching them together - in the bin then
My local motor factors yielded a new universal fit cable - wire type and much better to operate
The choke was sticking on too so I added a return spring to ensure it returned when the cable was pushed back in
A few minor jobs around the engine bay - spark plugs were loose - loose bolt on the starter motor - slack fan belt - all attended to
Bare wires just twisted together - this is the supply to the starter solenoid - what could possibly go wrong ? - Again sorted / made safe
I'm going to assume that the previous owner was in the building / roofing trade - there's no end of roof gutter bolts / cavity wall fixings / building adhesive being used on the car recently
Even the bonnet is fastened to the hinges with gutter bolts - that are loose ! - What is safe & usable I'm not touching - its just a matter of getting the the car into a usable condition but I'm lost for words with the lack of skill level demonstrated on this one by the previous owner
Engine side panel refitted on the offside
I've replaced the cavity wall fixings with rivinuts on the front panels - now I think that I'm back down to a hand full of small jobs on it tomorrow - so hopefully it might just make daylight out of the workshop
With the old regulator removed it became obvious that it had been messed with recently - look at the chewed up screwheads above the coils - once you start messing with these chances are that it wont work again
I always salvage what I can off the scrap ones though - the brass screws & the original Lucas cover are no longer available
Started the car this morning and the ignition / charge light went straight out - did a quick meter test and we are back in a charging position
I need to sort some type of a battery clamp out - whatever was there before is now missing
But also need to sort this lead out which lacks insulation and could readily earth against the bulkhead (car is positive earth - they all were in those days)
Traced the wire through to the rear of the instrument panel where it supplies power to the starter button
Panel was half hanging out and someone had been there recently - the speedo cable was missing in its connection to the speedo head
Removed the heater box shielding
Then located / recovered the end of the speedo cable and connected it back to the head - starter button rewired and the instrument panel could be refitted
This could now be binned
Replaced by this much safer option
Battery bracket in the making
Completed / painted & fitted - note the mounting plate for the battery master switch which is due into stock tomorrow - I would always recommend a master switch on anything of this age especially if its still running its original wiring harness but that aside its a good anti theft deterrent and can save no end of hassle with battery drain / flat battery etc - The battery box had a quick clean up prior to the battery being refitted - nothing special just a little adhesive on the sound deadening along with a quick squirt of stain black around the tatty areas
More bodgery of the finest order - Its recently had the choke cable replaced - the dashboard end of the cable is glued insitu with some black sealant - just absolute laziness - the cable is also a solid wire and is jarring - I tried to reuse it
But once I had cleaned it up the ferrules of the dashboard end just fell apart - the sleeve is alloy and the collar brass - I have no way of attaching them together - in the bin then
My local motor factors yielded a new universal fit cable - wire type and much better to operate
The choke was sticking on too so I added a return spring to ensure it returned when the cable was pushed back in
A few minor jobs around the engine bay - spark plugs were loose - loose bolt on the starter motor - slack fan belt - all attended to
Bare wires just twisted together - this is the supply to the starter solenoid - what could possibly go wrong ? - Again sorted / made safe
I'm going to assume that the previous owner was in the building / roofing trade - there's no end of roof gutter bolts / cavity wall fixings / building adhesive being used on the car recently
Even the bonnet is fastened to the hinges with gutter bolts - that are loose ! - What is safe & usable I'm not touching - its just a matter of getting the the car into a usable condition but I'm lost for words with the lack of skill level demonstrated on this one by the previous owner
Engine side panel refitted on the offside
I've replaced the cavity wall fixings with rivinuts on the front panels - now I think that I'm back down to a hand full of small jobs on it tomorrow - so hopefully it might just make daylight out of the workshop
On the plus side if we ever decide to branch out into roofing in Lancs we'll no be short of fixings!
Post by grumpynorthener on May 12, 2022 7:26:23 GMT
Nearside front side panel refitted which also included the bonnet stay & the workshop sweeping brush could be alleviated from its temporary bonnet propping duties
Gutter bolts removed from the bonnet hinges and replaced with something a little more fit for purpose
Exhaust mount altered from the strap that I fitted originally this was just folding back on itself and allowing the silencer to contact the chassis - now replaced with a fabricated steel strap and a heavy duty rubber bobbin which gives much better clearance between the chassis & silencer
Gearbox & rear axle oils arrived - I couldn't locate any online information in relation to the oil specification or quantities via the owners club - Fortunately Castrol Classic Oils have a great online resource for this information - just type in the make / model / year and it comes up with the detail - Castrol were Austin OE manufacture recommended when the car was new too. Its pretty critical with older cars that correct lubrication oils are used especially in gearboxes & rear axles due to the amount of bronze bearings & gears that are fitted - Modern oils especially synthetics don't work well at all with bronze and can lead to very premature wear / failure with bronze components
With the old oils drained (which given the colour & quantity hadn't been changed or checked for years) The box & axle were refilled - easy job on the gearbox as the access is from inside the car - not so easy on the rear axle though
Battery isolator switch fitted
Interior was relieved of many years of debris via the vacuum cleaner - quick inspection of the said interior reveals under seat stowage on both the front seats
And a hidden underfloor compartment in the floor
Ideal for hiding the duty free when returning from Europe
Electrics then - after a few bulb holders were cleaned up / a few duff bulbs changes everything worked / came to life
The car would have been on trafficators only - fitted to the B posts when the car was new - 99% of todays motorists don't what they are or understand them so its better not to rely on them for a clear turning signal in modern traffic - Its also evident that the traffictors ceased working many years ago too
At some stage in the cars life someone has fitted these Morris Minor rear lamps - although non original they do good job of providing rear side / brake lights & indication signals - the front wings have been fitted with suitable Lucas type indicator lamps
There's a separate stowage area for the spare wheel under the boot floor
The stowage area is then covered by this panel which incorporates the rear number plate
And should be fastened to these drop down hinges - but the panel arrived unhinged
Its been recently messed around with and the number plate bodged back in with construction sealant
The original 'D' shaped lamps would have provided for rear side & brake lamps but are now redundant due to the later fitted rear lamps to the wings - However at some stage they have been working and the wiring has earthed & burnt out
Spare wheel flap / number plate panel when fitted - its secured by a budget lock on each side
Some rewiring was still required though as the D lamps also provide for the illumination of the rear number plate - I just need to tidy the wiring up now I have these working
Getting ever closer to completion - needs a wash off - just waiting for the rear brake shoes to turn up now - once they are fitted the car can be road tested prior to onward delivery