Im dim, it does show the fuel pump separate on the diagram! it must be a swirl pot then? how about moving the gauge?
Not quite, the fuel pump shown is the old SU pump which feeds the high pressure pump, so you still get the familiar ticking on ignition switch on
My current thinking is that as I'm going to get rid of the rear seats anyway a la e-type as they are pointless, then I can build a wooden frame around for extra storage/tools etc. That said it probably won't take much to lower the pump the tiny amount required but I will need to box in/seal the old battery box, the alternative is I just fit a plastic liner sold by one of the owners clubs but where would the fun be in that (and it may not solve my depth issue).
Post by toomanyprojects on Dec 9, 2021 13:43:24 GMT
So amongst the house jobs and those on the list supplied by SWMBO last week, I did get some more head scratching time on the 'B.
As previously mentioned I decided to visit the stores and dig out the two heaters I had available, one being what came out of the car, the other from my '69 car that I refurbished a while back
The intention was not necessarily to fit it at this stage as they are an absolute pig to do, but just to roughly position so I could work out pipe routings etc. With it rested in place I could then see where I was at with any additional fixings that I require
The good news being that there is still plenty of room for the additional servo lines and I still have some of the original captive threads available should I need to use them for other items.
On with more head scratchery then - adding the aforementioned electrickery and in particular positioning a bank of relays for the various additions/upgrades in relation to the fuse box and wiring loom connection points
The latter meant that there was no real other way to test things other than to break out the loom as well. Here's one I labelled earlier
Now for this I've decide to start with a standard V8 loom and modify/add to it as required, not sure if that's the right or wrong way but we'll go with it for now. I do have a spare early loom as well as what I pulled from the car so I have reference points if I need them as somethings have obviously changed in the conversion.
A bit of contortion later and I'd managed to thread it to most of the places I needed to (note to self, fit this first next time!)
I even added the rear loom just to sense-check a few things
It will ultimately run under the car, but good job I checked as sure enough it will need extending on a couple of places to meet the fuel pump and tank sender as the original routing holes for these are now blocked with the new fuel tank.
Back to the front loom and I also discovered that my planned positioning for the coil was off too, it therefore needed to be relocated to the N/S radiator support panel, which meant I needed to move the expansion tank slightly as well
Last job for the week was to go visit the very knowledgeable folk at RPi engineering near Norwich who know all there is to know about Rover V8s. Thankfully they are not too far from me now. As you can expect they have some interesting cars visiting that are Rover V8 powered, when I visited there was a Morgan, gorgeously sounding SD1 being run in and the usual array of Solihull's finest around
The reason for the visit was to collect one of these
No I haven't give up on the FiTech just yet, but the thinking is to use the carb to simply reduce the number of parameters when getting the car up and running, the Fitech can then be introduced at a later date. In the meantime though I can continue to future proof the car with clips for hoses and any additional wiring.
I also need to think about how to best to approach the rear seat deletion and building in a raised storage area... some research is required.
That V8 looks quite happy sitting in that engine bay!
It should do - it took some fitting! As mentioned when the car is painted there'll be a fitting party here for when it goes in for the final time as I'm not doing it alone with fresh paint!
Right where were we? ah yes, more challenges.
Test fitting the Edlebrock revealed a couple of issues straight away. First with the mechanism fouling the N/S header cover
and the air breather pipes wanting to occupy the same space as the linkages, the situation will be even worse with pipes attached
The first is easily overcome with a bit of careful adjustment (bending) of the bracket as it's primarily used for the throttle return spring (see above). The second issue is also fixable but is a little more involved and requires the pipes being cut off, the resulting hole being plugged and then a new hole being made on the rear and the pipes fixed in place. A side project for when the rest of the jobs are done on the shell and the engine comes out again I think.
Speaking of which I thought I'd also take a look at the oil gauge capillary pipe despite that being in the same category. Ordinarily the feed is taken from the front cover, where the hoses for the filter and oil cooler attach
However as I'm using an updated cover there is no take-off for the gauge.
Early B V8s used the remote oil filter mount as the feed
As you cannot buy the filter housing with the opening in place despite all suppliers showing it in their catalogs I'll need to modify what I have. The starting point is therefore the cast filter housing
with the aim being to drill and hit the chamber on the input side
So I can tap in the gauge feed
Thoughts, suggestions, comments welcome as always.
Post by grumpynorthener on Dec 15, 2021 20:15:29 GMT
Surely the easier way is to leave the filter housing as is then fit a inline adaptor section immediately prior to the filter housing (if room allows) - car builder solutions and no doubt others stock a range of adaptors - a few of which I've listed below (not knowing what size / thread you need) - but the adaptor could be sited anywhere in the feed pipe run
I think the breathers in the rocker covers will be easy enough. Those small pipes will be easy enough to remove, and it looks like there is enough meat in the rocker cover to take it for something like a BSPT or NPT thread, thread in a compact elbow with a barb and you'll be golden I reckon.
Surely the easier way is to leave the filter housing as is then fit a inline adaptor section immediately prior to the filter housing (if room allows) - car builder solutions and no doubt others stock a range of adaptors - a few of which I've listed below (not knowing what size / thread you need) - but the adaptor could be sited anywhere in the feed pipe run
A good suggestion, There's plenty of room to do so too
From what I can find online, the oil pressure take off shown connected in my previous post is a 1/4 BSP thread. I would then need an in-line adapter with a 1/2 BSP thread to connect to the remote housing/hose.
I think the breathers in the rocker covers will be easy enough. Those small pipes will be easy enough to remove, and it looks like there is enough meat in the rocker cover to take it for something like a BSPT or NPT thread, thread in a compact elbow with a barb and you'll be golden I reckon.
Good shout - shall investigate. A much neater solution than having the pipes come out straight and then having to loop behind.
Could you fit a phenolic spacer under the carb to lift it up and create clearance? Or rotate the carb 90degrees?
The short answer is yes Alex, however...
The tricky balance is if I raise it up too much to solve one problem I'll create another in that it won't fit under a standard bonnet which is one of the things I'm hoping to do or at least have the option of doing.
Surely the easier way is to leave the filter housing as is then fit a inline adaptor section immediately prior to the filter housing (if room allows)
From what I can find online, the oil pressure take off shown connected in my previous post is a 1/4 BSP thread. I would then need an in-line adapter with a 1/2 BSP thread to connect to the remote housing/hose.
Shall get hunting.
After much hunting we may have a winner - 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/4 BSP Male x Female x Male Unequal Tee 3 Way Adaptor 🥳🥳🥳
Post by toomanyprojects on Dec 23, 2021 17:56:32 GMT
What was I saying about 'may' have a winner?!
It works in that it sits in-line as intended
Alas there is a slight issue when it comes to connecting the capillary line
Yes some donut took the thread size from the connector not the pipe itself...
So I now need a 1/4 female to 1/4 female [insert your own jokes here] adapter. More holiday hunting then.
Slightly more successful was my procuring of a 90 degree fuel inlet banjo for the edelbrock so it fits under the air filter
which soon got swapped with the existing inlet pipe
and for those of you wondering what the warning tag says...
Wonder if I could get away with E10? ... perhaps not.
In other news, due to recent developments there is an impending deadline or two for the shell involving a place in Preston and a large exhibition place just outside Birmingham (I may not have mentioned this bit yet), so it really is time to knuckle down and get the last of the mods done that involve holes in the shell, silly little things like the holes for the chrome strips in the new door skins, for they have none
and slightly bigger adaptations like the rear seat delete and creation of a storage area here:
think something along the lines of this
but betterer
It's a well-trodden path so I just need to think about how best to fabricate in either wood or metal like so
Lastly Happy Holidays one and all, thanks for reading and tagging along.
Coming together nicely. A shame it all has to be dismantled again for painting but imagine the mess of the new paintwork there would have been had it been done differently.
2 things spring to mind, the oil pressure take off can be taken off remote, there are 2 bosses on the casting, it would not take much to drill, spot, and tap to take 1/8th BSP fitting, and Use a 1" plastic carb spacer, that should help the breather pipe clearance