The need for the dry build is painfully obvious now and an absolute necessity.
That is the literal nuts and bolts of it (see what I did there ).
In all seriousness it may at first seem a bit of a chore, but given the work I'm already having to do for a supposed 'bolt on' kit, I'm glad I'm not compromising any undercoatings or near any new paintwork at this stage.
More worrying is that I've barely started and the puzzles are only going to get trickier due to some of the choices I've made, fingers crossed they will be slightly less awkward.
The key point I'm trying to remind myself as I get showered in more swarf is to enjoy the journey - sometimes easier said than done when in the moment!
Post by toomanyprojects on Jul 7, 2021 9:53:52 GMT
So linking nicely on from where I left things yesterday (sorry!)
I also had in the stores a 'torque reaction kit', not a complete necessity but something that I thought could only help spread the load a little on the rear end for those 'rabid ponies' as strikey so eloquently put it
Which uses the same mounting points as the lower trailing arms
to load transfer to the central crossmember
Which of course required more holes (one of which did pass through Chris' handiwork - sorry!)
with the holes in the front of the crossmember opened up for the crush tubes (these I may weld in situ for strength and to make life easier when it comes to the final build). I could then get on with bolting everything up.
except for one minor issue, the holes in the brackets weren't big enough for the bolts supplied - brilliant . Oh and the arrangement of the holes/bolts also made things rather awkward
Queue my octopus impression once more as I tried to get everything loosely attached once the bracket holes were dealt with.
I'm left to wonder a little on one matter from the start of your dry build: I see all those bolts with washers the size of the bolt head. Sometimes it even looks like it is just the bolt head no washer at all (maybe just looks), but...I'd expect a little bigger washers so the loads are a little more spread. I Appreciate that sometimes there are crush tubes or strengthening plates etc. but that certainly doesn't apply to all those bolt locations. I guess much smarter people than me have thought about all that though so I'm not seeing it as a problem, but I just wondered.
I'm left to wonder a little on one matter from the start of your dry build: I see all those bolts with washers the size of the bolt head. Sometimes it even looks like it is just the bolt head no washer at all (maybe just looks), but...I'd expect a little bigger washers so the loads are a little more spread. I Appreciate that sometimes there are crush tubes or strengthening plates etc. but that certainly doesn't apply to all those bolt locations. I guess much smarter people than me have thought about all that though so I'm not seeing it as a problem, but I just wondered.
Hi Alex, well spotted!
All bolts have washers (albeit not the largest you would have imagined, but that's what came with the kits), but the pics you may have seen of bolts without washers (there are a couple re the torque bars above), are where I've simply mocked things up to get the positioning for hole drilling etc. for final fitting then they have been added.
Post by toomanyprojects on Jul 8, 2021 11:11:37 GMT
With the rest of the 'adjustments' now made I could finally think about getting the axle positioned to see if everything lined up as expected
and of course it didn't quite go to plan...
the first issue being the torque bars where they bolt to the lower front mounts, for some reason the two were fouling each other on the top edge, which meant the holes didn't align properly
Cue much head scratching, adjusting, swearing and just as I was about to threaten it with the angle grinder to ease the edging a little, I got it to line up with the careful use of the jack to hold things in position. I could then work my way round and loosely add the rest of the other bolts and soon we had an unsupported axle
which looks like this from underneath
Very happy with how that looks
Of course despite the somewhat late hour I couldn't resist having a quick test
I didn't want the e-type 'tucked' look so I'm very pleased with how it looks - should work out rather nicely indeed and first milestone achieved.
Really odd not seeing cart springs under there....!!
Ahh yes, heavy and awkward things that I was not sorry to lose in this instance. I'm hoping the new set up will be a little more stable for what I'm intending to run. In a normal application they seem to work just fine, even if, as you say, they are a bit agricultural.
The losing of the springs also gives me a lot more room for 'additions', or does it...
Post by toomanyprojects on Jul 14, 2021 13:36:54 GMT
Bit of downtime required over the weekend for one reason or another, I also got distracted by sorting a few things in the garage now we had access, including making a start on painting so no MG progress, but I did manage a bit of time on Monday eve after work to run into another problem
Namely involving this, the next piece of the puzzle to test
A nice and shiny ally tank shaped as such to allow twin back boxes.
You'll see from the above, the only alignment / positioning reference is the filler neck, all the additional tabs around the top edge are undrilled and so need careful alignment and drilling for fitting. Seems straightforward enough... well until some idiot decided to put an axle in the way
It took a fair it of wrangling to get it underneath and again I wished I had several pairs of arms to position, hold the tank and manoeuvre the jack.
Just as I got it positioned and started to raise it, I discovered the first issue
Balls. The front tab of the tank fouled the panhard rod and so I couldn't raise it any further.
Surely then if it's going to hit that then it will not clear the rest of the bracket either? Well in a word no, but the tank does have a cut out for the drop straps bracket that may potentially help me
So plan of attack is to drop the panhard rod off, remove the bracket and then fit the tank, I can then go again with the bracket and modify that as I don't want to muck about with the tank unless I really have to, especially as my tig welding is a little rusty these days.
So in the interim the car looks like its, errr, well you make your own mind up
Post by toomanyprojects on Jul 14, 2021 13:51:43 GMT
Oh and a last request for anyone whose google research skills are on point, I'm trying to id exactly what engine I've got of the many LR variations (GEMS, THOR etc.) so I can purchase the last of the ancillaries like dipstick tube etc. as they are all different and most aren't interchangeable.
So if anyone has any sources or suggestions then it'd be much appreciated, block number for ref is 08DXXXXXA.
Its getting there! I know its only a dry run but some of the bolts look a bit short for the nylocs? must be nearly trial fit for the engine!
Are you going to coat the outside of the fuel tank with something?
Yup, slowly, slowly. Ahh yes, full disclosure, not all have been fully tightened in those pics, some I left looser than others as I had a feeling they would be coming off again.
Hoping to sort the engine this weekend, but ideally need to sort the steering shaft first as once the engine is in I have no hope. I was also toying with sorting sump gasket first but will probably leave all that for when it comes out for paint as I can then go over everything as a final step before priming, torquing everything down etc.
Yes, not sure what yet but it needs to blend in a little, all very well being nice and shiny but does stick out a bit. That and I'll need to add some heat protection to a couple of areas where the exhausts run.
I thought as much on the bolts, but its always good to have more eyes looking at jobs i find!
With the tank it wont last long under the car without a decent coating of something on it, being plain alloy it will dissolve pretty quickly otherwise I would think?
I thought as much on the bolts, but its always good to have more eyes looking at jobs i find!
With the tank it wont last long under the car without a decent coating of something on it, being plain alloy it will dissolve pretty quickly otherwise I would think?
The tank on my mk2 Granada is bare alloy, and gets an occasional polish from time to time. No crustiness or parts of that have turned to dust in about 12-13 years of almost daily use
Post by toomanyprojects on Jul 19, 2021 12:16:05 GMT
So several visitors over the weekend and a couple of other distractions (see workshop thread for why) put pay to any real progress on the MG front but I did manage to progress the tank fitting/positioning ready for securing in position - what a sod of a job! Much rolling about on the floor and little adjustments here and there to get everything aligned and centered.
The first job was to remove the existing studs used to locate the old tank, as that is offset slightly to clear the exhaust which runs down the near side, meaning they are completely in the wrong place for this tank.
I then had to remove the offending panhard rod bracket and then get the tank positioned using several means of lifting, the curved shape of the base meant this was easier said than done! Time for the two jack technique
and a third bottle jack to support the side. (a pair of these were purchased on a whim to help johnnybravo with moving a lathe a while back but have proved to be rather useful since)
Using the filler as a guide I got there slowly (you can see the existing stud heads to the far right side and slightly in from the left)
The good news is that once I had it where I wanted only the bottom left two of the existing bracket holes are now redundant so am hopeful I can modify it to fit
The tank also sits nice and parallel with the rear of the boot floor with plenty of room for fuel lines and electrickery
the fixing tabs also line up nicely with the edges each side
Post by toomanyprojects on Jul 27, 2021 10:26:51 GMT
With SWMBO at work and a few other minor jobs done, it meant I had some actual free time on Saturday for a decent amount playtime and progressing the aforementioned bracket modifications
It definitely wasn't going to fit without some changes!
A minor amount of attention from the cutting disc saw things improve slightly but it was still off where it needed to be
Some more tidying then. Although as it turned out it was also fouling on the fuel tank lip.
Luckily as I had decided to drill the holes slightly further inboard on this side it meant that section of the lip was surplus to requirements, so it got 'adjusted' with the dremel
A bit more tidying and trial fitting a few times saw everything line back up and I could get it bolted back in place. Only two holes are now redundant which was bit of a result. I'm hoping a bit more welding will help mitigate any loss in strength.
Back to the front end then so the car got spinned around once more
So armed with the go to tool of choice and a drill with various sized bits
it was a case of climbing/crawling into the engine bay and getting on with trying to sort the steering column issues. The first point was to open the rear engine mount hole up a little more
which to a degree was successful
but still all rather tight for my liking!
After going back and forth and trying to work out the next best move, I decided to go dig out the newer steering rack and give it a try as the later columns are a tiny bit narrower compared to the early cars
Better but still very tight
After going back and forth a number of times and rather than waste any more time at this stage I've decided to order in some rack shims which may help the angles and then try again as I also need to get the steering column attached inside the car to get everything aligned
So with that all done it meant that the real fun could begin. Which resulted in some more cutting... and swearing, lots and lots of swearing...
Post by toomanyprojects on Jul 28, 2021 17:14:35 GMT
So the reason for all my profanities - yup you guessed correctly, it was engine install time... on my own - what could possibly go wrong?
"Pah, that's easy, I do that all the time" I can hear you all say. Well yes, quite possibly, but in this instance things are rather tight, there are additions that this car was not originally designed to have installed and there is an order of doing things. Which of course I completely forgot/ignored in the interests of trying to get the job done - a small army will be employed/bribed when there is paint on the shell and it's going in for real.
Starting with a nice empty engine bay, the first job was to drop the car off the dollies and lower it to the floor
Which in all fairness is exactly what happened as of course there are no springs in the front subframe yet .
I took the engine off the stand, removed the front cover to give me a little more room just in case, and slowly lowered it into the bay
and that was my first mistake - can you spot the minor omission?
Yup, the headers needed to be pre-inserted into the holes before the engine was lowered. So out it all came again, headers installed and loosely held in place with cable to stop the engine hitting them on the way down... except it then wouldn't fit with the headers in place despite them being tied back.
Lift engine out again, untie headers, enlarge the wing holes being careful not to take too much and render the strengtheners redundant, repeat the cabling of headers, lower engine once more.
This time I noticed the engine mount bolts were too long and so wouldn't go past the chassis rails... lift engine back out, wind nuts on to the mounts, take a grinder to the threads, wind nuts off the threads, clean everything off and repeat again. Nope, still not enough room for the headers
Repeat the above a few more times until the pile of small offcuts had grown into what you saw at the end of my last update
Eventually however...
However it's not perfect - did I mention it was a bit tight?
Some more tidying required there then!
I decided I'd earned a beer at that point, so called it a good day's work. That and the next job on the list was the gearbox which I really couldn't (or even had the strength to) face at that moment in time.