Right, so it looks smooth and it feels smooth , I know that when I put shiny on it, it will look like the Himalayas, what can I do to tell before that point. I tried water and light didn't seem to help.
Right, so it looks smooth and it feels smooth , I know that when I put shiny on it, it will look like the Himalayas, what can I do to tell before that point. I tried water and light didn't seem to help.
I would apply 3 - 4 coats of a good primer filler - let it cure - then guide coat it (I use a cheap matt black aerosol) then flat it back by hand with wet & dry but with a rubbing down block - the guide coat should indicate the high / low areas that will either require more flatting / rubbing back or further filling / priming - a quick read through my current Jupiter thread where I'm undertaking the filling / priming / guide coats may help but get back to me with any issues if you need to - Chris
Chris - I have a calor gas heater which I was thinking of using in the garage (not while I was painting or using volatile products) and remembered your warning about not using silicone based products in an area where paint could be being applied. I know that calor is not a silicone product, but is there any problem with combustion by-products remaining in the garage and affecting paint finish in the future?
Chris - I have a calor gas heater which I was thinking of using in the garage (not while I was painting or using volatile products) and remembered your warning about not using silicone based products in an area where paint could be being applied. I know that calor is not a silicone product, but is there any problem with combustion by-products remaining in the garage and affecting paint finish in the future?
It shouldn't be a problem quite a lot of bodyshops use the gas blown air type heaters - usual use of panel wipe is highly recommended - my only point with the static gas heaters are that they tend to generate large volumes of condensation / water vapour which if you have any bare metal is going to be an issue
Thanks Chris. Yes, I think that burning 'calor' produces moisture on a pint for pint basis. Off to the shed now to dig out the heater.
On a different point. Can you, at some point, post some guidance for rubbing down around vents and grills without rubbing through the paint. I was hoping to get some leads from your current (03/21) Jowett thread but I blinked and missed it!! The area I am concerned with is the grill area on my MkIV Spitfire bonnet, which you are familiar with after you recently had one in.
Thanks Chris. Yes, I think that burning 'calor' produces moisture on a pint for pint basis. Off to the shed now to dig out the heater.
On a different point. Can you, at some point, post some guidance for rubbing down around vents and grills without rubbing through the paint. I was hoping to get some leads from your current (03/21) Jowett thread but I blinked and missed it!! The area I am concerned with is the grill area on my MkIV Spitfire bonnet, which you are familiar with after you recently had one in.
Fine or superfine Scotchbrite is what I use - I would only go at it lightly mind
Chris - Stupidity rules!!! - Should check things regularly. Some time ago I asked you if there would be any problems in using silicone brake fluid in a car that was to be repainted at a later date. You said, as I expected, that there shouldn't be a problem. But!!!! I have found that during the lock-down, the Spitfire clutch master cylinder which was only re-rubbered about 2 years ago, has been weeping silicone fluid which has run down the pedal linkage, and the drivers side rubber mat and carpet are covered in it. So question number one - Is this going to cause a problem with the paint when applied (yes, I do have anti fish-eye additive for the paint). Question number two, what is the best way to neutralise the fluid and get it out of the carpet (the rubber mat I can chuck away) and off the footwell paint?
Chris - Stupidity rules!!! - Should check things regularly. Some time ago I asked you if there would be any problems in using silicone brake fluid in a car that was to be repainted at a later date. You said, as I expected, that there shouldn't be a problem. But!!!! I have found that during the lock-down, the Spitfire clutch master cylinder which was only re-rubbered about 2 years ago, has been weeping silicone fluid which has run down the pedal linkage, and the drivers side rubber mat and carpet are covered in it. So question number one - Is this going to cause a problem with the paint when applied (yes, I do have anti fish-eye additive for the paint). Question number two, what is the best way to neutralise the fluid and get it out of the carpet (the rubber mat I can chuck away) and off the footwell paint?
Plenty of panel wipe will sort the removal of the brake fluid - and again liberal use of panel wipe in advance of any paintwork should prevent any paint issues - I doubt that its the fluid that was the problem - more than likely the seals that are probably of a spurious manufacture & quality - in line with most other classic car parts that are supplied in todays market
In my experience DOT5 is slipperier than regular brake fluid. Likely you are correct GN about the modern seals but I find it is more likely to leak regardless. I had this with my Midget - and went to the auto supply store and literally shook every bottle till I found the thickest. Either Prestone or Kleen Flo (I have both in the garage and I think it is Kleen flo)
In my experience DOT5 is slipperier than regular brake fluid. Likely you are correct GN about the modern seals but I find it is more likely to leak regardless. I had this with my Midget - and went to the auto supply store and literally shook every bottle till I found the thickest. Either Prestone or Kleen Flo (I have both in the garage and I think it is Kleen flo)
I re-rubbered both brake and clutch master cylinders at the same time but I'm sure the kits came from different suppliers. Says it all I suppose. Thankfully no problems with the brake master cylinder but I am keeping a watchful eye on it just in case.
can anyone suggest a (reasonably priced) non-setting sealant , i want to call it the equivalent of the old dum-dum as i think that's what i'm thinking of? i would like to re-seal to boot seal on SWMBO's Audi as it has been on and off a few times now and the original product that was used from the factory is getting a bit sparse. the boot occasionally takes a drop of water in and i want to eliminate the chance that it is wicking behind the seal without using a fully setting sealant.
can anyone suggest a (reasonably priced) non-setting sealant , i want to call it the equivalent of the old dum-dum as i think that's what i'm thinking of? i would like to re-seal to boot seal on SWMBO's Audi as it has been on and off a few times now and the original product that was used from the factory is getting a bit sparse. the boot occasionally takes a drop of water in and i want to eliminate the chance that it is wicking behind the seal without using a fully setting sealant.
Pete - How does the seal fit - is it the usual push fit U shape that goes over a channel upstand ?
can anyone suggest a (reasonably priced) non-setting sealant , i want to call it the equivalent of the old dum-dum as i think that's what i'm thinking of? i would like to re-seal to boot seal on SWMBO's Audi as it has been on and off a few times now and the original product that was used from the factory is getting a bit sparse. the boot occasionally takes a drop of water in and i want to eliminate the chance that it is wicking behind the seal without using a fully setting sealant.
Pete - How does the seal fit - is it the usual push fit U shape that goes over a channel upstand ?
Pete - How does the seal fit - is it the usual push fit U shape that goes over a channel upstand ?
thats the one chris.
Non setting windscreen sealer for use in rubber sealed windscreens in that case then - Arbomast Autograde - PM me your address and I'll send you a tube - Chris
Thanks for the offer Chris , very kind but now i know what to look for i'll grab a tube. It needs to be non setting as the seal needs to come off if ever the hydraulics for the roof need accessing and for chasing electrical gremlins , which have been busy little sods lately. In fairness its mostly with aftermarket tat that a PO probably paid strong money to have fitted (laserline reversing sensors and a parrot hands free kit). Not that OE is free from faults , the alarm ultrasonic module needs an occasional tickle with some servisol spray to keep it in check and the window switch panel is the same.
Post by grumpynorthener on Mar 27, 2021 21:03:49 GMT
Polymer Paint Protection - I never believed in this stuff until I actually witnessed the use of it in a demonstration - Showing interest I was then invited to a course on the product range which included applications & live demonstrations - cost me nothing but a day of my time and a trip to Birmingham - several companies offer a similar product but I stick what I know & use 'Supagard' - This is a option which is very much upsold with new vehicles and the more expensive the vehicle the more the vehicle salesman thinks that they can charge - at least several hundred £££ in the vast majority of new vehicle showrooms - Its a fantastic product that can create huge profit margins - one man could easily do 3 - 4 cars a day and the material costs are a tiny fraction of the invoiced total - so with apologies for the new car content that I'm going demonstrate the product on
My neighbour has just taken delivery of a new Jaguar I-Pace HSE
He was so impressed with the last car I did for him that he wanted the paint protection applying his new car
The application sponge comes ready to go - the polymer is contained in a sachet retained within the sponge
You simply pierce the sachet through the sponge a few times - moisten the sponge and off you go
Needless to say the existing paintwork needs to be very, very clean - free of tar spots / fall out etc - the vehicle does not have to be new either it can readily be applied older paintwork providing its in good condition - again its suitable for freshly painted cars / new restorations etc - just apply it lightly avoid any grained plastic or rubber trims - leave for about 2 hours then polish off - takes absolutely minimal effort
Its great for alloy wheels too - the dirt / brake dust just falls off them when you wash the car
Whilst waiting for the polymer to dry - I applied a leather protection & fabric protection to the interior
And the end results
How good is it - well this is the difference - water & dirt just beads up and then rolls off the paint surface
Here's a better example of it working on the rear window (no wash wipe fitted)
On Phil's last car (Range Rover Evoque) - I applied this system - the product was still working 3 years / 70'000 miles later - the car only ever got washed and was never waxed in addition to paint protection that was applied when the car was new - If you need further info or details on how to obtain the product just ask and I'll point you in the right direction
Used a similar product from G-Techniq on my new Golf on delivery day. It's ready for another application now as car is approaching it's 4th birthday. Makes contactless washing a possibility if cleaned regularly but don't let dealers anywhere near it with a courtesy TFC laden wash if you want it to last!
Post by grumpynorthener on Mar 28, 2021 20:52:17 GMT
Underbody protection - A lot of owners think that if cars panel & paintwork looks good then they needn't worry about the underside - but how wrong they are - despite modern build methods & factory rust proofing cars are still subject to rust & rust perforation
A good friend of mine & fellow Jowett owner purchased this 2000 Aston Martin DB7 V12 Vantage convertible last year - low mileage and nursed from new - full service history etc - sounds fantastic and is obviously very quick
Anyhow at 21 years old the underside could do with some attention - nothing of any real concern but the suspension parts + front & rear subframes were peppered with surface rust and the floorpans could do with a reapplication of a protective coating - So I talked Keith through the preparation process - basically ensure that the underside is clean / oil & grease free / free of loose debris etc - clean back the surface rust with a wire brush then wash down with a panel wipe prior to applying Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 - Keith went down the belt & braces route and then applied a etching primer over the Hydrate 80 once it had cured
Keith had completed this over the last week - hence it was just a matter of me turning up today to apply the protection - fortunately Keith installed a decent 2 post lift when we extended his workshop several years ago
Lots of careful masking up later (polymask is the easy way - it comes on a roll either 4, 5 or 6 metres wide then opens out to mask a complete vehicle - just cut the length that you need off the roll - also great just as general dust sheets over vehicles - I even use it when I'm decorating at home)
Floorpans first - these were done in a Dinitrol grey stone chip to match the factory finish on the car
Boot floor was also done
Then cavity wax injection into the sills with a lance - existing grommet apertures were used for access
Also sprayed the cavity wax between the steel outer sill and the sill trim which is plastic
Along with a front wheel arch / inner wing strengthener plate that also formed a cavity
Then on with Dinitrol black 4941 underbody wax
All the suspension / drivetrain / subframes & wheel arch cavities were treated - the front wheel arches have a plastic liner fitted to them which Keith had removed for access purposes
Rear suspension & wheel arch tubs done
Looking the part
I left with Keith to complete the demasking & refit the wheel arch liners / road wheels etc - Any questions you have on underbody protection / cavity waxes etc just post them up and I'll get back to you with some answers - Chris