Bookmarked as I’m getting ever closer to that stage. I’ve done the engine bay and for a first attempt(apart from spraying bangers with gloss thined with petrol) I’m happy! I did start reading a very similar thread on a another site but will stay here!
Any questions / issues you have just post them up here - ideally with pics if you can and I'll get back to you with some answers / suggestions / recommendations
Post by grumpynorthener on Feb 1, 2021 20:46:43 GMT
Some masking tips then
If you have quite a bit of painting to do masking paper is the way to go - newspaper is a tedious way of masking up - I always keep a 18" & 36" roll in stock - really handy stuff
Polymask is great stuff too - even for use as cheap disposable dust sheeting (great if you are decorating too)
Comes in 4,5 & 6 metre widths - all masking materials can be found at your local automotive paint / refinishing factors or on the likes of Amazon / E Bay etc
If you want to locally mask an area without leaving a tape edge you can roll masking tape back on its self
Known in the trade as back masking - great for painting up to swage lines / part panels / door skin flanges etc and avoids having to paint the entire panel - I would only drift the paint up to the masking if using this technique - in other words don't apply the paint really heavy up to the masking - remove the masking as the paint starts to tack off - then a little light compound / polish once dry should have it sorted - same method can be used for clearcoats too - back masking is difficult to achieve around radius edges though
A quicker & easier method is to use a specialist foam blending edge tape - self adhesive on one face
Follows a radius edge easily - again remove whilst the paint is tacking off - then a quick polish to the edge - don't stretch the tape whilst applying it
There is a thicker format of the foam tape
That's made for closing / masking aperture gaps off
Should you be bringing paint up to a tape edge for instance applying one colour up to another for a 2 tone finish then don't use ordinary masking tape - applied paint will bleed / leach under it
There are specialist clean edge masking tapes for this process which come in a few sizes - again remove the tape once the paint has been applied / whilst its curing - don't leave it on until the paint cures
Has always any questions just post them up and I'll get back to you with some answers
Should you be bringing paint up to a tape edge for instance applying one colour up to another for a 2 tone finish then don't use ordinary masking tape - applied paint will bleed / leach under it
There are specialist clean edge masking tapes for this process which come in a few sizes - again remove the tape once the paint has been applied / whilst its curing - don't leave it on until the paint cures
That's interesting, thanks. I'd always wondered why I can't get a clean edge when I'm painting around the headlamp covers on my Vauxhalls, and I'd presumed it was because my masking tape was cheap, or old, or both.
Should you be bringing paint up to a tape edge for instance applying one colour up to another for a 2 tone finish then don't use ordinary masking tape - applied paint will bleed / leach under it
There are specialist clean edge masking tapes for this process which come in a few sizes - again remove the tape once the paint has been applied / whilst its curing - don't leave it on until the paint cures
That's interesting, thanks. I'd always wondered why I can't get a clean edge when I'm painting around the headlamp covers on my Vauxhalls, and I'd presumed it was because my masking tape was cheap, or old, or both.
Link below to the 3M product which comes in 4 widths - it should be available online by using the 3M product code
For anybody who want to see a professional paint process using £1500 of materials on a very small car - this is worth 40 minutes of your life.
But I'd love to know what others think of the job - not so much the fancy pearl graphics, but the prep and techniques.
Also what is wet on wet primer ?
Ill watch the vid later & comment but in the interim - wet on wet primer - Is a primer that you apply coats over whilst the previously applied coat is still wet - its what I use as my second stage primer - virtually available in all automotive brands and is also tintable - hence if you are applying a light final colour you use a light colour primer - red final colour use a red primer etc - it gives for better coverage of the final paint finish - wet on wet primers can also be fairly high build but as a rule are readily & easily worked / flatted
Post by grumpynorthener on Feb 4, 2021 20:52:22 GMT
So considering that it ended up with several pearl tints which then required clear coating - the £1500 in materials is fair - if they had stuck to just a base primary colour and a separate colour for the roof then the material costs would be closer to £1k (remember its a small car) now 9 weeks - is that 9 x a full 40 + hour week or 9 weeks of on & off works over a 9 week period - there will be drying / curing times involved here so my guess is its not a full 9 weeks but probably a good 6 - 7 weeks + Given the level of detail I would readily estimate that somewhere in the 250 - 300 hours region has been expended on it - it all then depends on the labour rate which in turn is heavily dictated by overheads - in a nutshell automotive paintwork undertaken to high standards just isn't cheap - But largely what is seen in the video is how it should be done
I thought from the still they were going Mr Bean - I love OEW & black so relieved on that front - and as for the effects only a viewing in the flesh could ever tell the truth as to whether it works. Either way I love admire and commend the attention to detail and can't wait to see Binky bink
So what are the home painter's options with regards to paint types Chris? 2 pack is out of the question for most home workshops so does that leave Cellulose as the only option?
So what are the home painter's options with regards to paint types Chris? 2 pack is out of the question for most home workshops so does that leave Cellulose as the only option?
Thanks
Sean
2 Pack can be used providing you take the right precautions but fitting a decent extraction system & having a positive air feed visor is as you state out of the question for most - others carry on regardless and disregard the requirements but I wouldn't recommend it - so yes cellulose is a safer option other than a single pack synthetic enamel which can also be sprayed but the air drying times are significant - ok for solid colours but unsuitable for metallic finishes TBH its fine for things like trailers / tractors / commercial vehicles but I wouldn't recommend using it on a car of any real value - other than that you are down to coach painting which is applying the paint by brush and in the hands of a skilled person high quality results can be achieved - but this takes some time to master and the drying times again are significant - so the most suitable option that will produce a good quality finish on a DIY / home basis takes you back to cellulose
Thanks Chris, very useful. Have used Cellulose many times in my Youth but always worried about the durability (managed to spill brake fluid on my newly painted MGA) so Synthetic Enamel has always intrigued me as an alternative. As I understand it that's what the factory would have used for a lot of our kind of cars until well into the 70s yet it doesn't seem to be well thought of for refinishing. Point is of course I hope moot for me but I'm an inquisitive sort!
Thinking ahead here now.. but this year i really must tidy the wheels on swmbo's A4 Cab. The one thing i'm mulling over is masking the bolt seats as they are pretty deep set. If i tape them im not sure if i can trim the excess , so i thought about some chamfered plugs and attach them with a screw from the rear. Any suggestions welcome
Thinking ahead here now.. but this year i really must tidy the wheels on swmbo's A4 Cab. The one thing i'm mulling over is masking the bolt seats as they are pretty deep set. If i tape them im not sure if i can trim the excess , so i thought about some chamfered plugs and attach them with a screw from the rear. Any suggestions welcome
Pete - I think that even with the best intentions you will have all on for the paint to build up on the chamfer collar for it to create any detrimental effect - if it really troubles you I would just drop some washers of the rough diameter down there - But in all the years I have been been painting alloys I have never had a problem with paint affecting the tightness of the wheel nut or a wheel nut coming loose at a later date
Post by grumpynorthener on Feb 9, 2021 20:25:52 GMT
With the subject of alloy wheels being raised I thought a quick guide on the cosmetic refinishing of them might be welcome
Better done off the car - you will find it easier if you deflate the tyre and even better if you can get your local tyre centre to knock the tyre bead off the face of the rim
Cosmetic referbs are perfectly doable on a DIY basis but if the rim is suffering from heavy corrosion you will be better taking it to a specialist and getting them to do it - they will have all the equipment to remove the tyre / remove all paint / blast the wheel then refinish it - some alloy wheel specialists can offer a wide range of services that include straightening / welding of cracks etc
If its just cosmetic damage or a change colour that's required this you can do yourself - I would recommend giving the wheel a wash off & dry before you commence - then a good wipe over with panel wipe taking care to remove any tar spots & residue
Once cleaned up - take your time and mask the tyre off & the internal rim if you you are only refinishing the outer face of the rim - you can do the referb with the tyre fully fitted but its painful to mask up and work around the edge of the rim
Preparation of the wheel surface can be undertaken in the same way that you would undertake conventional car bodywork - here I have used a DA sander on a slow speed - I wouldn't recommend attempting to remove any deeper damage with the DA or by sanding - you will loose the profile of the wheel if you go too deep - The deeper nicks & scratches can be filled with a good quality body filler then sanded back to the correct profile of the wheel
Has with all automotive paintwork preparation is hugely important - once you have the repair areas profiled & sanded back the remaining areas can be keyed up - Given the difficult contours of alloys wheels - scotchbrite is the easy way of achieving this
A good blow off all dust and with the wheels placed to prepared area (even if it is the floor)
Primer applied - I use a fast drying high build aerosol for convenience - once cured it can be flatted back then dried - another wipe over with panel wipe and its ready for paint
Colour matching could be a problem if you are just repairing a single wheel - I have access to a range of wheel colour swatches - your local automotive refinishing factors should be able to assist with the matching if not (but you will need to find a helpful one) - a online search will reveal various brands that do a specialist wheel range in aerosol should have to go down that route and its perfectly achievable with rattlecans - but if you want good results purchase good quality products - if you have access to a compressor & spraygun then you can just paint / refinish the wheels with a conventional automotive paint
Then on with the paint - I used a basecoat for the colour with a lacquer applied over the top once the basecoat had cured
With these end results
Once fitted back to the vehicle my top tip for ease of cleaning is to apply a wax to them - then all you have to do is avoid the kerbs