Post by grumpynorthener on Jun 21, 2021 19:35:24 GMT
Alex - I appreciate that the polisher came as a deal but some honest advice here - don't attempt to use it ! - 2500 RPM at its lowest speed that is far too quick for polishing automotive paintwork and will do far more damage than any good - my machine runs at 900 RPM and I wouldn't dream of increasing it above that speed (it has the capability) Run polishers at high speeds and you will burn through the paint / paint edges in no time - its also likely to leave many more swirl marks than what you currently have - its not speed that you need when polishing but a steady low speed - You would be far better to clay the paint finish by hand (which is easy) then a light polish again by hand - you will be amazed at the difference it makes and done on a panel by panel basis means that you don't have do every panel in one go.
Other than using your eyes (imagination sometimes) or rubbing down with 80 grit is there a better way to find spot welds? On a painted surface it is not so bad but on a corroded panel or even clean steel it is pot luck.
Alex - I appreciate that the polisher came as a deal but some honest advice here - don't attempt to use it ! - 2500 RPM at its lowest speed that is far too quick for polishing automotive paintwork and will do far more damage than any good - my machine runs at 900 RPM and I wouldn't dream of increasing it above that speed (it has the capability) Run polishers at high speeds and you will burn through the paint / paint edges in no time - its also likely to leave many more swirl marks than what you currently have - its not speed that you need when polishing but a steady low speed - You would be far better to clay the paint finish by hand (which is easy) then a light polish again by hand - you will be amazed at the difference it makes and done on a panel by panel basis means that you don't have do every panel in one go.
Hi Chris,
I hear what you're saying. It was actually my first thought when I got the machine in my hands...
Which is why I thought I remembered you also having a device to turn down the power to make a machine go slower? Was wondering if I could make something similar?
Problem with what you are saying when applied to the Transit paint is that hand polishes just don't seem to get the job done. The marks like the one in the first picture of the Transit paint just don't come off with my hand efforts. And I am assured by those in the know that that is not in the paint but on the paint (it is said to be the rubber deposit of a bike handle dragging on the paint). Same for the scratches in the paint. Even those that do not go to the white primer layer do not really respond to my efforts by hand.
So either I don't have the right polishing product (it was a maguiers polish) or I'm not doing it right.
So in that respect I still have the same question. I'd like to clean up the paint a bit using a max of two polishing steps (and preferably using the/a machine).
So either I don't have the right polishing product (it was a maguiers polish) or I'm not doing it right.
I have read that some products are designed for use with a machine - that is, they rely on a bit of warmth generated in order to work properly, which for most people won't be possible by hand.
It's a while since I've read much about this. I created a lot of orange peel when I painted my project, which I never really cured. I think just about the best panel on it is one of the last that I did (of course), where I'd learned a bit more and also where I'd been kindly loaned a "Rupes" polisher to see if it helped. I'm not sure how much of the improvement was the polisher, and how much was the better technique for flatting the paint.
Chris - What would you say was the minimum/optimum overlap area for a repair panel when bonding them in. I am working on about 1cm all around. Will that be enough,too much or what? Thanks
Chris - What would you say was the minimum/optimum overlap area for a repair panel when bonding them in. I am working on about 1cm all around. Will that be enough,too much or what? Thanks
10mm / 1cm is fine - its what I allow on a swaged joint when panel bonding
I have cleaned up the gutters on my hardtop and treated with Hydrate 80. There are some spots that are pock marked in the channel, where I have attacked the worst of the surface rust prior to treating. What is the best way to level this up. Seam sealer, upol filler or something else? I'm sure that I have read your solution to this on another thread some time ago, but afraid that I can't find it.
I have cleaned up the gutters on my hardtop and treated with Hydrate 80. There are some spots that are pock marked in the channel, where I have attacked the worst of the surface rust prior to treating. What is the best way to level this up. Seam sealer, upol filler or something else? I'm sure that I have read your solution to this on another thread some time ago, but afraid that I can't find it.
Has awkward as it is for access I would level it up with filler first (make sure that you key the Hydrate 80 before applying the filler) then check to see if there is a joint between the gutter and the roof skin if there is then ideally this will require raking clean and a seam sealer applied prior being primed
Thanks Chris, especially the point about the joint between the gutter and roof skin. Going through the entire body paint thread tonight before I start to do some sort of profiling on the hardtop. Already come across some of your points that I had forgotten. This is a great resource. I have been putting off skimming with the upol due to the hot weather, but feel I really should get on with something constructive.
Chris - I have noticed a small dent in the hardtop, about the diameter of a 10p piece. Probably caused by something dropping on it during winter storage. Before I do the barbaric trick of gobbing it full of filler, is there any chance it can be pressed out with the aid of a hot air gun? I have never tried this sort of thing before. There is paint on othe inner side but this can be reapplied and then covered with the headlining. I don't have anything like a hammer and dolly, just standard and 16oz lump hammers, the latter I think may be a bit of overkill?
Chris - I have noticed a small dent in the hardtop, about the diameter of a 10p piece. Probably caused by something dropping on it during winter storage. Before I do the barbaric trick of gobbing it full of filler, is there any chance it can be pressed out with the aid of a hot air gun? I have never tried this sort of thing before. There is paint on othe inner side but this can be reapplied and then covered with the headlining. I don't have anything like a hammer and dolly, just standard and 16oz lump hammers, the latter I think may be a bit of overkill?
All depends on what type of dent it is - If its soft / shallow / hollow it might just push out - However, from experience this is very rare - dents normally have a point of impact which depresses the panel at the same time the dent is formed the edges of the dent form a crest that is of a higher profile than the original panel profile - even if you could push the dent out you will tend to find the impact has stretched the metal in the area of the damage and the dent then travels in the opposite direction and forms a convex profile above the original panel profile rather than the concave profile that the damage formed - which is why a hammer & dolly are normally utilised to slightly shrink the damage - but ambitious use of a hammer & dolly can also stretch the damaged area further leading to yet greater damage (oil canning - where the panel area looses its rigidity due to thinness of the metal) - The damage you describe is probably of the size & depth where you would do more damage than good in attempting to reduce it - The science of dents all sounds quite complex doesn't it but all you need to do is slightly alleviate the crest area around the dent with some very careful light taps from a lightish hammer to reduce the crest - then prepare then fill the depression
I am about to apply the final primer then top coat having etch primed, then two goes at filler primer. What I wold like to know what to sand the primer and top coat with wet or dry? What grades? Do you need the Dura type blocks for wet sanding??? So many questions thanks Stewart
I am about to apply the final primer then top coat having etch primed, then two goes at filler primer. What I wold like to know what to sand the primer and top coat with wet or dry? What grades? Do you need the Dura type blocks for wet sanding??? So many questions thanks Stewart
In that case you can either sand wet or dry it all depends upon how your primer flats back and if it clogs the paper when sanded back dry - if it does then you need to flat wet which will lubricate the sanding media and prevent it from clogging - 2 pack paints are high build and carry much more density & are more forgiving than solvent or water based paints which are applied thinner - P400's over the primer will be fine for a 2 pack application - If you are colour sanding the final coat for polish then wet with P1500's / P2000's - Nope you don't require dura blocks for wet sanding you can use a straight forward & much cheaper 3M type rubber sanding block with loose sheet wet & dry
I have flated the whole car down with 400 and then 600 as I had some. Ive gone on to apply the top coat using the new gun I have it has come out ok ish but very orange pearlly. I’m not sure I had enough air pressure so can I now wet sand with 1500 2000 and then polish? Can you steer me in the direction of the type of poilsher etc I need many thanks. Stewart
I have flated the whole car down with 400 and then 600 as I had some. Ive gone on to apply the top coat using the new gun I have it has come out ok ish but very orange pearlly. I’m not sure I had enough air pressure so can I now wet sand with 1500 2000 and then polish? Can you steer me in the direction of the type of poilsher etc I need many thanks. Stewart
Just spent an hour drafting a detailed response only for it get lost has I went to post it - have other things I need to do now but will repost my response later
[[/quote]Just spent an hour drafting a detailed response only for it get lost has I went to post it - have other things I need to do now but will repost my response later [/quote]
O blimey thanks for for giving up your time and sharing your knowledge