Well it is obviously amateur hour here at Jag buttock repair. Finally got around to spraying with a colour matched aerosol and despite lots of filler layers, high build primer and careful sanding with a soft block backing... I can still see the join line, the filler has bled through to the paint surface along the join/re-shaping line and the last bit of paint in the can came out with a white blush (propellant overdose?).
Suggestions for the best way forward please (other than get someone competent to do it!) ?
Seam sealer. Apply onto bare weld then epoxy primer or epoxy primer first then seam sealer? (Think this was mentioned before somewhere)
Recommendations for paint stripper? No idea what type of paint it is other than it is 2 different types including the original 1975 paint which is coming off easily with cheap Screwfix stripper and other stuff it won't shift.
Tops of the inner wings and down into the engine bay has some sort of thin hard underseal type of stuff and so far a blow torch and putty knife is removing it but is painfully slow and messy. Would good paint stripper help?
Well it is obviously amateur hour here at Jag buttock repair. Finally got around to spraying with a colour matched aerosol and despite lots of filler layers, high build primer and careful sanding with a soft block backing... I can still see the join line, the filler has bled through to the paint surface along the join/re-shaping line and the last bit of paint in the can came out with a white blush (propellant overdose?).
Suggestions for the best way forward please (other than get someone competent to do it!) ?
Looks like the filler has shrunk over a period - has the car been stored outside whilst the work was undertaken on it has this will have a factor - the primer bleeding through looks more like insufficient paint coverage and the problem with the last paint in the aerosol as a golden rule never rely on the last 10% of content in a aerosol - so can you feel the line / join that you see through the paint with your hand - if you can (and I appreciate the prep work to date) then it will require a more through / diligent sequence of prep work - try not to leave filler work open to the elements if the car is outside - I would also recommend that you use a isolator / sealer over your next prep work prior to primer / final paint - if you are wet sanding the primer this would normally show imperfections such as the panel joint has you wash the panel down whilst flatting - view the panel down its length rather than side on whilst its wet and any defects should stand out - by all means bug me for further info / questions that you may have once you have read this through
Seam sealer. Apply onto bare weld then epoxy primer or epoxy primer first then seam sealer? (Think this was mentioned before somewhere)
Recommendations for paint stripper? No idea what type of paint it is other than it is 2 different types including the original 1975 paint which is coming off easily with cheap Screwfix stripper and other stuff it won't shift.
Tops of the inner wings and down into the engine bay has some sort of thin hard underseal type of stuff and so far a blow torch and putty knife is removing it but is painfully slow and messy. Would good paint stripper help?
Thanks.
I always like to prime the areas that I'm applying seam sealer to (many of them state that they are fine on bare metal but I don't trust them)
Paint stripper - Starchem Synstryp (Don't bother with anything else) link below
Paint striper will certainly soften up underseal - I have a couple of old wood chisels that I sharpen up and they are great for the paint stripping process - pair of marigold gloves and medium course wire wool has you get down to bare metal - keep applying the stripper with a brush and a quick rub with wire wool brings the final residue clean off - much better & cleaner than having to wash it off with water
A roll of poly mask will help enormously has temporary floor covering for the drive etc especially with the messy tasks (like stripping) once done just fold it inwards & bin it
Thanks Chris - you are spot on. I got it to 90% then it sat outside but under a cover for a while, then another 5%, then another sit, then highbuild, then a sit... then paint. I did get it deliberately extra wet to try and look for any issues and saw none - but then it sat before final wipe down and paint.
I'll check tomorrow but I expect I will be able to feel that groove.
Looking back this was end Feb, and it's had several layers since then!
So flat the area with P400, a fine surface filler, then an isolator (any product recommendation?), then primer, then paint - all done with as little delay as possible.
I'll remember that next time for the last 10% of the can - annoying as my spraying was the only thing that went really well.
Seam sealer. Apply onto bare weld then epoxy primer or epoxy primer first then seam sealer? (Think this was mentioned before somewhere)
Recommendations for paint stripper? No idea what type of paint it is other than it is 2 different types including the original 1975 paint which is coming off easily with cheap Screwfix stripper and other stuff it won't shift.
Tops of the inner wings and down into the engine bay has some sort of thin hard underseal type of stuff and so far a blow torch and putty knife is removing it but is painfully slow and messy. Would good paint stripper help?
Thanks.
I always like to prime the areas that I'm applying seam sealer to (many of them state that they are fine on bare metal but I don't trust them)
Paint stripper - Starchem Synstryp (Don't bother with anything else) link below
Paint striper will certainly soften up underseal - I have a couple of old wood chisels that I sharpen up and they are great for the paint stripping process - pair of marigold gloves and medium course wire wool has you get down to bare metal - keep applying the stripper with a brush and a quick rub with wire wool brings the final residue clean off - much better & cleaner than having to wash it off with water
A roll of poly mask will help enormously has temporary floor covering for the drive etc especially with the messy tasks (like stripping) once done just fold it inwards & bin it
Please don't hesitate with any further info / contacts / help that you may need
Sound advice as usual and the appropriate materials have been ordered. Thank you. There was a question that came to mind this afternoon as I was working on the car but can't remember what it was. It will come back to me later.
Chris. I am just about to order some epoxy primer and hardener from Jawel. I asked them about thinners and was told I need a slow 2K Acrylic thinner but it appears it only comes in 5 litre size. It is 3 litre of primer so 1 litre of thinners would do me. (I think) They have a fast thinner in 1 litre but for applying with a roller would that work or should I try and get a 1 litre of slow thinner elsewhere?
The paint stripper Chris recommended arrived today so engine bay is getting blitzed.
Chris. I am just about to order some epoxy primer and hardener from Jawel. I asked them about thinners and was told I need a slow 2K Acrylic thinner but it appears it only comes in 5 litre size. It is 3 litre of primer so 1 litre of thinners would do me. (I think) They have a fast thinner in 1 litre but for applying with a roller would that work or should I try and get a 1 litre of slow thinner elsewhere?
Ray - You really need a slow / universal thinner rather than a fast thinner - especially in the current climate and given that you are applying it by hand this one in the link should do it
Has anybody used one on these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402830010928 and would an angle grinder work at lower speeds? Reason I ask is that I am having trouble keeping the sparks from hitting (and burning through) the canvas garage when I am grinding down welds. It fires them out a such high speed they bounce off the welding blankets I am using as shields and go where I don't want then to.
Has anybody used one on these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402830010928 and would an angle grinder work at lower speeds? Reason I ask is that I am having trouble keeping the sparks from hitting (and burning through) the canvas garage when I am grinding down welds. It fires them out a such high speed they bounce off the welding blankets I am using as shields and go where I don't want then to.
Ray - Yes I have one for running the angle grinder slower when using a felt flap disc for polishing - TBH they don't really work in the respect that you loose too much power and the speed variation becomes intermittent - you might have to adopt a different method - how about some cheap 8' x 4' hardboard sheets that you can place around the sides of the tent in the areas that the sparks are landing
Has anybody used one on these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402830010928 and would an angle grinder work at lower speeds? Reason I ask is that I am having trouble keeping the sparks from hitting (and burning through) the canvas garage when I am grinding down welds. It fires them out a such high speed they bounce off the welding blankets I am using as shields and go where I don't want then to.
Ray - Yes I have one for running the angle grinder slower when using a felt flap disc for polishing - TBH they don't really work in the respect that you loose too much power and the speed variation becomes intermittent - you might have to adopt a different method - how about some cheap 8' x 4' hardboard sheets that you can place around the sides of the tent in the areas that the sparks are landing
Thanks for that Chris. I'll save my money then. I went into work (my ex work really) and borrowed a mini grinder from one of the boys. My compressor can't keep up with it but works good enough and in conjunction with an electric powerfile which I had forgotten I had got the job done.
Another question while I am here. Sorry. Is there something similar to stone chip but with a more can we say delicate texture. The plan is to paint the engine bay but the inside of the front panel is quite rough so was thinking of using something textured for that and maybe the bottoms of the inner wings and bulkhead. Really needs to be white so I can paint over it. Thanks for your time.
Post by grumpynorthener on Jun 9, 2021 18:02:43 GMT
Ray - The better quality stone chip type coverings go on quite thinly & represent a OE quality finish
This is what I used on the inside of the Jupiter wings (which are seen once the bonnet is lifted but I wanted something that would resist the road debris thrown up by the front wheels
Unfortunately its a trade only account product
Frost do a similar product that is over paintable - either in the schutz type gun application or in aerosols and this should readily do the job for you - Much like seam sealer I would always prime the surface if its bare metal before applying stone chip coatings
Thanks Chris. I already have 3 Tetrosyl tins in white (don't know why I bought so many) which I bought last year but they are probably basic cheap crap. I can probably get the Kent product from contacts in the trade and most of the local suppliers know me from my years in the trade (mechanical side) so shouldn't be a problem. Almost got the engine bay ready for the epoxy primer so will post pics on my thread hopefully tomorrow or Friday.
Thanks Chris. I already have 3 Tetrosyl tins in white (don't know why I bought so many) which I bought last year but they are probably basic cheap crap. I can probably get the Kent product from contacts in the trade and most of the local suppliers know me from my years in the trade (mechanical side) so shouldn't be a problem. Almost got the engine bay ready for the epoxy primer so will post pics on my thread hopefully tomorrow or Friday.
Ray - Pays to keep the contacts - obviously if you do get stuck please don't hesitate to contact me - I've ordered various Kent stuff for other BRM forum members before today on their behalf
Thanks Chris. I already have 3 Tetrosyl tins in white (don't know why I bought so many) which I bought last year but they are probably basic cheap crap. I can probably get the Kent product from contacts in the trade and most of the local suppliers know me from my years in the trade (mechanical side) so shouldn't be a problem. Almost got the engine bay ready for the epoxy primer so will post pics on my thread hopefully tomorrow or Friday.
Ray - Pays to keep the contacts - obviously if you do get stuck please don't hesitate to contact me - I've ordered various Kent stuff for other BRM forum members before today on their behalf
Thanks Chris. If I get stuck I'll give you a shout. Can I be a pain in the butt and ask another? I have got all the underseal / black wax cleaned from the engine bay, followed by the original top coat, followed by a very thin yellow paint (etch primer) and underneath that is the factory (I think) coating. In many places I am through to bare shiny steel. Removal has been by a combination of scraper, paint stripper and steel wool. Some of the surfaces are very smooth. Other than a good wipe down can the epoxy primer go straight on or do I need to key it with something like 80 grit first. Thanks again.
Ray - Pays to keep the contacts - obviously if you do get stuck please don't hesitate to contact me - I've ordered various Kent stuff for other BRM forum members before today on their behalf
Thanks Chris. If I get stuck I'll give you a shout. Can I be a pain in the butt and ask another? I have got all the underseal / black wax cleaned from the engine bay, followed by the original top coat, followed by a very thin yellow paint (etch primer) and underneath that is the factory (I think) coating. In many places I am through to bare shiny steel. Removal has been by a combination of scraper, paint stripper and steel wool. Some of the surfaces are very smooth. Other than a good wipe down can the epoxy primer go straight on or do I need to key it with something like 80 grit first. Thanks again.
Ray - Firstly you will never be a pain so just ask away all you like - I don't mind in the slightest and its exactly why we run this thread and without being all heroic of it - it would be great shame if I cant pass on my knowledge / contacts / tips etc in order to help others
In answer to the question I would always key the area back with P80's / 120's then a good going over with a panel wipe before applying the epoxy - sounds like you are making pretty good progress though
Thanks Chris, I am always mindful that you have your business to run and don't like taking up too much of your time.
Was thinking I would get some paint on the engine bay today but there are lots of little bits I am not happy with such as underseal still visible in tight corners which I can't really clean out. (eg where the engine mounts are welded on) Going to spend another half day on getting them as clean as I can and after the epoxy goes on put a small bead of seam sealer on and then overcoat that.
I could strangle the numpty that sprayed the entire engine bay in black wax. Day 4 now of cleaning that off and finger print recognition on phone and laptop doesn't work now as no finger prints left.
Thanks Chris, I am always mindful that you have your business to run and don't like taking up too much of your time.
Was thinking I would get some paint on the engine bay today but there are lots of little bits I am not happy with such as underseal still visible in tight corners which I can't really clean out. (eg where the engine mounts are welded on) Going to spend another half day on getting them as clean as I can and after the epoxy goes on put a small bead of seam sealer on and then overcoat that.
I could strangle the numpty that sprayed the entire engine bay in black wax. Day 4 now of cleaning that off and finger print recognition on phone and laptop doesn't work now as no finger prints left.
Ray - Its never an issue - I simply don't carry the overheads that most restorers do and can therefore please myself a little - still slog 60 + hours a week into the business but very enjoyable hours - I literally walk across the yard in the morning with my coffee, open the door switch the lights & radio on and I'm on holiday for the rest of the day - sometimes I get a full day in and other times it might only be half a day depending upon what else is happening around Grumpy Towers - but gone are the days where I have sell X number of hours in order just to make the overhead
Yep my finger print recognition on the laptop very rarely works me after a day in the workshop and I wear gloves most of the time