Now to go and swot up on how to get new paint to blend in with old, which I assume I do before clear coat.
The match might be interesting as this whole section has already been sprayed once with the previous repair.
Paul - That's certainly looking better - to blend the colour ideally you need to lightly key (fine scotchbrite) the entire panel - mask up then apply the colour coat to the work area - go well beyond the area of work and lightly fade / dust / ghost / feather the paint out onto the panel a good 300mm away from the primed work area - easiest way then is to clear coat the entire panel - you will not see the correct finish for the panel until the clear coat is applied - not the easiest of tasks but not rocket science either
Thanks, just reading back to your earlier tips, I'll back fold the masking tape and ghost up to it.
Do I scuff the existing surface beyond the new paint and clear coat beyond the join?
Very much so if you don't clear coat well beyond the paint then once polished back you will just end up with a ugly line where you polish into the base coat
Ideally I would leave for a few hours for the basecoat to vent off before applying the clearcoat - the 2k hs clearcoat is misdescribed - its impossible for it be a 2k product and remain fluid in the can - 2k products are where a catalyst is added to the product in order to activate curing - if it was 2k in the can it would be a solid mass by now - that must be a 1k / single pack air drying clearcoat - nothing wrong with it just the manufacture / vendor detailing misleading information on it - strange how there is no specification or TDS listed / supplied for it - don't let that put you off using it though - now the trick is to apply it wet enough to achieve a finish with it but to not over apply it that it runs - I'd highly recommend 1.5 coats - first coat a light misting / mist coat don't worry about the finish and the second coat applied with a wet finish (In other words the mist coat acts has a gripper / adhesion coat for the second heavier applied coat)
Ok so did as you described and scotch-brighted the whole panel, wiped down with IPA, then a tack cloth just before spraying- but it's not shiny even after 2.5 coats, neither on the fresh pain or old. The blue panel above I tested earlier by scuffing half and just leaving the other half (to see if it made a difference, which it appears not to) then spraying a single coat between the masking tape and it's really shiny, but the car isn't. Any idea what I have done wrong and how to fix please.
Ok so did as you described and scotch-brighted the whole panel, wiped down with IPA, then a tack cloth just before spraying- but it's not shiny even after 2.5 coats, neither on the fresh pain or old. The blue panel above I tested earlier by scuffing half and just leaving the other half (to see if it made a difference, which it appears not to) then spraying a single coat between the masking tape and it's really shiny, but the car isn't. Any idea what I have done wrong and how to fix please.
Lacquer / clearcoat is going on too dry - slow down the rate that you are passing the aerosol horizontally across the panel - leave what you have applied to dry then key it back with a scotchbrite - you don't have to apply the basecoat again you can go back over the top of what you have just applied - try watching the clearcoat hit the panel side on rather than face on - that way you should be able to see a gloss finish appear has you apply it providing the clearcoat is hitting the panel at the required density - it will not matter how many coats you apply if its going on dry you wont achieve the required gloss type finish
Weeeell looks like a rattle can job done outside by someone with no experience - who would have thought?! Much better than it was thanks to GN's help but probably as good as it's going to get with the above circumstances.
On the plus side it no longer has holes you can stick your finger through.
Weeeell looks like a rattle can job done outside by someone with no experience - who would have thought?! Much better than it was thanks to GN's help but probably as good as it's going to get with the above circumstances.
On the plus side it no longer has holes you can stick your finger through.
Well done - you can improve on that too - try a little P2000 / 1500's wet & dry with a little soap in a small area - polish back with a medium compound and it should come up mighty fine - this will remove any minor imperfections / specs of dust etc alongside giving it some real shine - none of it is rocket science it just takes time and a little patience
In a second hand deal I acquired a dual action polishing machine and a myriad of polishing pads (and an engine stand but that is not the topic here). It has variable speed but its slowest speed is still a little faster than I'd like. So I have two questions really:
1. I seem to remember Chris having a box with a variable control to plug things like a polisher into? I'd like to know more... 2. I wanted to buy some polishing compound without going too mad. Was thinking of 2 stages max or possibly just one using 3m compounds. But even with their colour coded cap system there's still a lot of variaton in products that in the end have the same cap colour. Apparently it's not like the yellow or green cap means it is always this or that product. There are fast, xl, and what not types of the same stuff. So the actual question is what do I need/buy?? 3. What type of edges does one tape off and what tape does one use? 4. What is the best way to start the machine? I presume it's like a sander, put it to the surface first then switch on?
As additional info: I intend to polish my Transit to bring up the paint. It doesn't need to look perfect, 100% swirl free etc. as it is a metallic black and will always show imperfections (it's 8 years old so will never be new). I will then coat the paint with the long lasting sponge thingy's I have. Same for the granada. I want to very lightly polish the paint and then reapply the sponge treatment.
In a second hand deal I acquired a dual action polishing machine and a myriad of polishing pads (and an engine stand but that is not the topic here). It has variable speed but its slowest speed is still a little faster than I'd like. So I have two questions really:
1. I seem to remember Chris having a box with a variable control to plug things like a polisher into? I'd like to know more... 2. I wanted to buy some polishing compound without going too mad. Was thinking of 2 stages max or possibly just one using 3m compounds. But even with their colour coded cap system there's still a lot of variaton in products that in the end have the same cap colour. Apparently it's not like the yellow or green cap means it is always this or that product. There are fast, xl, and what not types of the same stuff. So the actual question is what do I need/buy?? 3. What type of edges does one tape off and what tape does one use? 4. What is the best way to start the machine? I presume it's like a sander, put it to the surface first then switch on?
As additional info: I intend to polish my Transit to bring up the paint. It doesn't need to look perfect, 100% swirl free etc. as it is a metallic black and will always show imperfections (it's 8 years old so will never be new). I will then coat the paint with the long lasting sponge thingy's I have. Same for the granada. I want to very lightly polish the paint and then reapply the sponge treatment.
Any more info needed, just ask.
Alex - Has a starter can you post up a pic of the polisher / pads that you have - does have a speed control already on it - once seen I can advise from that point - Chris
Tried polishing up a small area, didn't work, just made it duller! Also has water blush despite being dry for 3 days before rain - I put a cover over it and it has blushed where the cover touched.
However I did find this picture of a similar XK8 repair on ebay to make me feel better !
Post by grumpynorthener on Jun 17, 2021 23:28:44 GMT
Ok if its made it duller then the Halfrauds compound is not doing its job - you would be better off with a known market brand like Farecla or 3M - dont do anything with the area that has ghosted / bloomed - other than stick it in some strong sunlight next time we get some - it should hopefully vent its self out
If you can't get your hands on either of the products chris suggested (i agree with both brands) then the autoglym paint renovator is a good substitute. I picked up a bottle to try as a stop gap till i could get a new 3m finesse it (my compound of choice) and have found it to be fine for a light cut.
In a second hand deal I acquired a dual action polishing machine and a myriad of polishing pads (and an engine stand but that is not the topic here). It has variable speed but its slowest speed is still a little faster than I'd like. So I have two questions really:
1. I seem to remember Chris having a box with a variable control to plug things like a polisher into? I'd like to know more... 2. I wanted to buy some polishing compound without going too mad. Was thinking of 2 stages max or possibly just one using 3m compounds. But even with their colour coded cap system there's still a lot of variaton in products that in the end have the same cap colour. Apparently it's not like the yellow or green cap means it is always this or that product. There are fast, xl, and what not types of the same stuff. So the actual question is what do I need/buy?? 3. What type of edges does one tape off and what tape does one use? 4. What is the best way to start the machine? I presume it's like a sander, put it to the surface first then switch on?
As additional info: I intend to polish my Transit to bring up the paint. It doesn't need to look perfect, 100% swirl free etc. as it is a metallic black and will always show imperfections (it's 8 years old so will never be new). I will then coat the paint with the long lasting sponge thingy's I have. Same for the granada. I want to very lightly polish the paint and then reapply the sponge treatment.
Any more info needed, just ask.
Alex - Has a starter can you post up a pic of the polisher / pads that you have - does have a speed control already on it - once seen I can advise from that point - Chris
Took me a little while to take some pictures of what I have got. It's a DAP900 (docplayer.nl/16590183-Www-polishingpower-nl-handleiding.html). It's 2500-6800 RPM and has an 8mm "swing". Got 4 machine pads in different hardnesses. Got some hand held pads that appear to range from non cutting to cutting (haven't yet identified all the pads yet). Some standard hand applicators and even a cone shaped thingy. A drill held small pad with some p3000 disks is also there. And an anal probe and a wheel well attachment for the high pressure washer.
I also took some of the issues in the Transit paint. Some scratches are to the white ground layer, so I presume I'll have to fill them with a bit of paint before any polishing. If I can't get rid of them completely that is OK, but I hate those white scratches on a black car.