Post by justforthepics on Nov 2, 2021 20:59:46 GMT
Hi All,
I dropped off the MGA yesterday and picked up this.
The owner tells me it wont be as bad as the TD i built. Im not so sure about that. The wood in this body seems a bit worse than the TD was and this one isnt running.
GN has SID, i have Zinder she has to look at all the cars that come into the work shop to have her say.
This one may take a bit longer than thought.
I will start looking at it more today but first i have to move the Morgan and put the TF where that is so i can look at the TF and the chassis at the same time as i am using it as a template for the special.
Post by justforthepics on Nov 18, 2021 21:22:23 GMT
With the Morgan taking up most of my time in the last few weeks i have only managed to do a few things on the TF. I have stripped the body of all the paint and filler back to bare metal. I must say its in much better shape then the TD was. It still has a few issues i will have to deal with but for now its coming along.
As the engine hadnt been started in 8 odd years i though i would check that out before i got to far into getting the body back on it. Good thing i did. So i re-primed the oil system, new oil and filter got the carbies back on it, very roughly got the coil and fuel pump mounted and got it to start.
That is where the fun stopped. Less then 20LB of oil pressure at revs, O dear not even close to where it needs to be. Off will come the oil pump for checking as it was the owner that re-built it and im not sure if he did it right / wrong or its just FUBAR! Oil drained last night and oil pump will come off today for checking. If it all seems on then the motor out and on a stand to check all the bearings are correct and not damaged. It was apparently re-built but i have not looked at it so who knows if it was done correctly or just slapped together. Fingers crossed on this one.
Post by justforthepics on Nov 23, 2021 20:19:25 GMT
Ok the engine had to be pulled out. Not much fun but not the worst i have ever done either. Best thing was most of the car wasn't there. I then pulled the sump off crank out cam out. There was evidence of odd wear on the bearings especially the mains.
Considering this engine has done 0 miles and has only run for a minute of 2 at a time and has set for 8 years this is most concerning.
The oil pump doesn't seem to bad. there is about a tight 4 thou gap on the gears so not to bad, would have preferred 2 thou but shouldn't drop pressure like it is.
So now i am just waiting for new bearings and gaskets to arrive and start rebuilding it again and pack and re-prime the oil pump and try it again. Hopefully success this time.
Post by justforthepics on Nov 28, 2021 20:44:10 GMT
With the engine sitting waiting for parts i moved back the stripping the body to access the wood. From the outside it appeared ok and far better than the TD. Um didnt end up that way.
Also the frame for the body has very heavy pitting on most of the drivers side and the rear of the passengers side. I am trying to decide if i just give up on it and remake it or try and revive it.
Either way it is going to take longer than i had hoped. So for now i will keep stripping the guards and other body parts in prep for the body being finished.
Silly question I know, what grade/weight oil are you using, 20/50 or similar, and certainly not syn, but looking at your garage, I think you will know this,
I was in Melbourne for a year in the late 80s & bought a Moke with a freshly rebuilt A series from a lovely (as I thought at the time!) bloke called Tarki who worked at the local fast fit depot, where they'd done the rebuild as an after hours project. Ran fine, drove it home, but the oil pressure light wasn't operating. Rummaged behind the dash (well, the 'clock'!) and found the wire taped up neatly out of the way. Connected it up and sure enough we had an illuminated bulb. All through the rev range!
Cue much head scratching, pulled the cover nut off to check if the relief valve had got stuck or some dirt under it, and there it wasn't!
Popped to the scrappie & pulled one out of something else A series, stopped on the way home to pick up a mechanical oil pressure gauge kit, popped it all back together and we had 60psi at idle. Relieved (pardon the pun) wasn't the word!
Did many thousand klicks in it, all happily, and if I had my time again would have shipped it home with me. Think I paid $800 for it!
Silly question I know, what grade/weight oil are you using, 20/50 or similar, and certainly not syn, but looking at your garage, I think you will know this,
I was in Melbourne for a year in the late 80s & bought a Moke with a freshly rebuilt A series from a lovely (as I thought at the time!) bloke called Tarki who worked at the local fast fit depot, where they'd done the rebuild as an after hours project. Ran fine, drove it home, but the oil pressure light wasn't operating. Rummaged behind the dash (well, the 'clock'!) and found the wire taped up neatly out of the way. Connected it up and sure enough we had an illuminated bulb. All through the rev range!
Cue much head scratching, pulled the cover nut off to check if the relief valve had got stuck or some dirt under it, and there it wasn't!
Popped to the scrappie & pulled one out of something else A series, stopped on the way home to pick up a mechanical oil pressure gauge kit, popped it all back together and we had 60psi at idle. Relieved (pardon the pun) wasn't the word!
Did many thousand klicks in it, all happily, and if I had my time again would have shipped it home with me. Think I paid $800 for it!
Happy memories
Cheers
Matt
I have measured the spring and it is exactly 1.5 inchs as it should be,
I was in Melbourne for a year in the late 80s & bought a Moke with a freshly rebuilt A series from a lovely (as I thought at the time!) bloke called Tarki who worked at the local fast fit depot, where they'd done the rebuild as an after hours project. Ran fine, drove it home, but the oil pressure light wasn't operating. Rummaged behind the dash (well, the 'clock'!) and found the wire taped up neatly out of the way. Connected it up and sure enough we had an illuminated bulb. All through the rev range!
Cue much head scratching, pulled the cover nut off to check if the relief valve had got stuck or some dirt under it, and there it wasn't!
Popped to the scrappie & pulled one out of something else A series, stopped on the way home to pick up a mechanical oil pressure gauge kit, popped it all back together and we had 60psi at idle. Relieved (pardon the pun) wasn't the word!
Did many thousand klicks in it, all happily, and if I had my time again would have shipped it home with me. Think I paid $800 for it!
Happy memories
Cheers
Matt
I have measured the spring and it is exactly 1.5 inchs as it should be,
Waiting on a new one just to check it.
Cool. Spring length unlikely to be a factor, more whether it's there or not and / or has a bit of grit under it
15/40 may be too light, the pumps are not super efficient nor are the engine tolerances as normally good as a CNC machined engine, I would be still using a 20//50, over the years I have faffed about with old engines, made adjustable pressure relief springs, and/or shimmed pressure relief valves.
15/40 may be too light, the pumps are not super efficient nor are the engine tolerances as normally good as a CNC machined engine, I would be still using a 20//50, over the years I have faffed about with old engines, made adjustable pressure relief springs, and/or shimmed pressure relief valves.
Ok cool i will give that a go. I have an adjustable pressure relief fitting for it so i will adding that once i get it to that point again.
Post by justforthepics on Nov 29, 2021 20:16:32 GMT
Got all the new bearings yesterday so started rebuilding the engine back up.
When i was cleaning all the gasket surfaces on the sump face i was surprised to find all these stampings from the original factory build.
If you have every had to replace a timing chain on a T series MG you would know the timing chain has 2 silver links to align with the T marks on the gears. What does help is if the silver links are in the correct place. They are meant to be 13 teeth and 15 teeth apart. The chain i was supplied was 14 and 14 teeth apart very helpful not.
The number of times I've counted those teeth! Sometimes the chains also have a T on them they can be a right mare! Watch the rear oil seal too! MG... More Grief! ha! Also getting up oil pressure can also be a job!
I was thinking about oil pressure again, have you checked the rocker arms for wear, I had a RoverV8 that had a badly worn rocker shafts, and p-ssed out my oil pressure exactly where it was not needed.
I was thinking about oil pressure again, have you checked the rocker arms for wear, I had a RoverV8 that had a badly worn rocker shafts, and p-ssed out my oil pressure exactly where it was not needed.
thats sort of what made me look at the oil pressure in the first place was the lack of oil at the rockers.
I did discover that MG had put a restrictive flow banjo bolt to the head on the later engines but it was still very slow to get to them and the amount getting there was small.
Many years ago I built a 289 Cleavor long before kits were available to bolt Cleveland heads on a Windsor, It was a lot of trial and error, I spent ages trying to get oil up the the rockers, only to find I had for the 3rd time got the wrong head gaskets, and had blocked off the oil ways in the heads, that engine was a disappointment, It should have been a good engine, but never performed as it should have
Many years ago I built a 289 Cleavor long before kits were available to bolt Cleveland heads on a Windsor, It was a lot of trial and error, I spent ages trying to get oil up the the rockers, only to find I had for the 3rd time got the wrong head gaskets, and had blocked off the oil ways in the heads, that engine was a disappointment, It should have been a good engine, but never performed as it should have
I have a 302 Cleveland here if you want it. I was going to build for a project but went down a different path. Postage may suck a bit
Many years ago I built a 289 Cleavor long before kits were available to bolt Cleveland heads on a Windsor, It was a lot of trial and error, I spent ages trying to get oil up the the rockers, only to find I had for the 3rd time got the wrong head gaskets, and had blocked off the oil ways in the heads, that engine was a disappointment, It should have been a good engine, but never performed as it should have
I have a 302 Cleveland here if you want it. I was going to build for a project but went down a different path. Postage may suck a bit