Jowett Javelin - Can you just sort this out for me

Contrast between paint and trim will be lovely.

Wing back off and further adjustments made 



Once I had refitted the wing and I was happy with the alignment against the door I could start to position the D post brackets that retain the wing - here is the top one being fitted 



Then the bottom one 



With the repair now held rigid I could add further tacks of weld down the edge of the repair - I'll remove the wing again and undertake a full seam weld of the repair to the wing - the outer face will have the tacks dressed back and eventually once I'm completely happy with the repair / wing alignment / aperture gapping then I'll lead load the repair area as required 

Seeing all these bodges by a supposedly professional body man which you are having to rectify makes me feel rather less inadequate than I did before.

I presume it will be easier to repaint the whole car - will it be the same colour? great work!

im sure the owner has already thrown a chest full of cash at this but with what you are uncovering , if it were mine , i would be seriously considering , A. push it off a cliff... B. push it off a cliff again... C. as its now in good hands , take it fully back to bare tin to find and rectify ALL potential horrors for once and all. i am sure you had that conversation though.

Nearside rear wing removed and the underside of the leading edge dressed back where I applied the weld bead - so that's this wing completed in relation to structural repairs 



Underside of the rear shroud next - this is what the rear wings bolt up to - there's a wing piping bead that fits between them - its a common weak area on the model for corrosion - its already received previous repairs - but these are weak and the bolt aperture holes for the rear wing mounting are very much oversize - there's also numerous corrosion pinholes visible within this area 



Rather than create a dense smog from the paint & filler that burns when welding / grinding within such a close proximity of it - I find it much cleaner to remove first (its going to have to be removed anyway)



So a session with the DA to remove it 



No surprises that the factory seam between the tail of the shroud and the rear valance had just been covered over with filler - these were hidden from new but were lead loaded at the factory - with the seam now being weak clear daylight can be viewed through the seam - hence if the filler had been left it would have soon been bubbling though once the car was on the road - I will now fully weld this seam on both sides to prevent future water ingress 



On the inner side of the seam is the toolbox tray floor & inner wing both of which are suffering from corrosion and just painted over - the tray floor isn't even welded to back to the repair section that's been undertaken on the inner rear wing 



Repairs to the underside of the rear shroud underway - this will make for a stronger & flush mounting for the rear wing & piping bead 



I decided to disappoint myself further by removing the nearside front wing - the front valance requires removal first 



Which is full of rust ingress to the rear - note the plated over starting handle aperture ! 



Endplates are also harbouring untreated rust and the mountings are twisted / deformed 



On the good news front the outer front wing is in very good condition and just requires some minor works to correct the alignment with the front door 



And some of structural areas have been replaced / fabricated / welded to good standard 



But why bother replacing defective structural areas to only completely ignore the corroded area immediately adjacent to the repair that's been undertaken  



This is where the front inner wing meets the chassis leg - you can just see the outline of the previously repaired area to the right in the image but the rusted out area to the left of the repair has just been ignored

 

It gets worse - there's this awful mess of a repair attempted on the inner side of the A post disguised with sealer & body filler 





This is where the A post / front inner wing / bulkhead / windscreen pillar all join - the bonnet hinge also mounts within the same area - its had the upper / horizontal section of the inner wing plated over - but the whole area is defective / weak - daylight clearly viewable from the cabin through the absolute mess of weld tacks & corroded panel work - Weak structural area aside I'm unsure has how they thought that water wouldn't ingress into the cabin and the freshly retrimmed interior   
 

Repair to the inner wing tacked in 



Then fully welded 



And dressed back 



Next is a repair section to the flange edge that the rear wing bolts up to 



Repair section patterned & cut - cage nut fitted to the rear of it for wing mounting has this is not accessible once the repair is welded in 



Tacked up 



Then welded & dressed back 



Slotted aperture holes for the rear bumper iron mounting let into the rear inner wing 



Then a trial fit of the bumper iron 



Rear wing refitted to allow the marking up of the new aperture holes for the wing mounting to the rear shroud areas that have now been repaired 



The wing was then removed - holes drilled and the wing refitted again - welding magnets that I never really use for the purpose intended because the magnetic field always sends the Mig into orbit - However what I do use the magnets for though is retaining bolts in their location whist I get the washer & nut onto the bolt thread 



Wing now fully bolted up to all mounting points 



And the bumper iron refitted to check for clearance on the wing aperture - there's a rubber that slides onto the the iron to cover the wing aperture - The bumper irons may require further adjustment yet but that can wait until I have both rear wings / irons fitted - then I'll do a dry build / alignment of the bumper itself prior to undertaking any paintwork on the car 
 

Non original horizontal brace & fuel tank straps removed from the boot floor 



Minor welded repairs will be required at each end where floor meets the rear inner wings 



And the panel itself will require a little truing / straightening up 



Critically whoever undertook the welded repairs to the nearside rear inner wing - left that side of the boot floor completely unattached to the inner wing !



Initial clean back - I'll work my way through the repairs required over the next few days 



Trail fit of the toolbox lid 





Next was to sort why the boot panel was moving on its hinges 



That will be the wrong fastenings then 



Seen this no end of times where the threads have never been checked / cleaned prior to the panel being painted 



I removed the the boot lid and worked through cleaning the threads with a suitable tap - then sourced the correct bolts from stock and refitted the boot lid 



Fit to the upper edge is good - a decent aperture gap is required otherwise the boot contacts the paint edge on the roof panel when the boot is opened 



Good consistent aperture gapping on Javelin boot lid is beset with problems due to the fact that the inner frame of the panel is alloy and the outer skin is steel - asides from dissimilar metals corrosion - the outer steel skin splays outwards from the alloy inner frame which lacks the strength to prevent the splay of the outer skin 



Upper gapping with the rear shroud is also ok (ish) 



However at some stage in this cars life its suffered a push on the rear valance and the valance has been replaced - nothing heavy - but enough to crest / peak the shroud  which now contacts with the boot lid 



On both sides - hence this will require some work to correct 



Horizontal alignment with the valance also requires some correction - all sortable in the grand scheme of things and without a great deal of effort too - But why the pervious repairers didn't spot something so glaring obvious is beyond me - That said they have chosen to ignore far worse things than this on the car 

Ray - Don't have a die grinder they are way too noisy in operation - I have a very small air grinder that takes a thin 75mm diameter disc - once this gets down to about 50mm diameter it can be used in most places - my air power file is also quite small when compared to the larger electric powered ones - it only runs a 10mm wide belt and the nose of that can access most places