My 93 Mini Cooper 1275i recommission.

Your convoluted set of arms are for restricted access flanges - they will allow to use the machine on a flange that sits above or below the height of the jaws on the welder  - in some cases you just cant get the machine to where it needs to be in order to operate it and arms like this allow the machine to be operated at different heights & angles 

hope sorting the wiring is on the list?

its amazing what people do sometimes.

Got my repair cut to size, glued it in with the hot metal glue torch and proceeded to clean it back. Dropped the wire speed and power a little which made some runs look better but my welding still needs work. Not gonna get chance now though as my PortaMig has failed. Gun switch bells out just fine but contactor not pulling in. Not duty cycle related as it had been stood for half hour before I went to fill the last gap and after 2 secs it stopped. I’ll check it out in the morning.
Looking a little better. One bit less to do I suppose.

Think the board has issues. Made in the U.K. by Technical Arc. Should be able to sort a repair.

I forgot the name of this site after changing my phone! Found the link on my iPad 😂

Got my welder sorted eventually. All good now and managed to learn how to Tig with my Parweld (to a fashion).
Back on it now.
I’ll post an update in a moment.

Not wanting my inner wings to resemble Swiss cheese after unpicking the ‘ears’ of the original front panel I decided to cut out and replicate in fresh metal.









Next up was the other side. I need to linish the weld and seam seal before repainting.





Next up was a couple of Flitch panel repairs before welding on the scuttle closing panels.





Then I got the scuttle along with the front panel and wing in place as a temp measure to see if it looked ok.
Quite pleased.

Any recommendations for an over-paintable sealer to fill the wing to scuttle and wing to front panel joints?
Was gonna use Sikaflex but if there’s anything better please let me know.

Personally I would use something that is made for job rather than a do all type of adhesive such has Sikaflex or Tigerseal which are PU based - don't get me wrong they have their place & uses in the market but I don't think this is it and once the car is painted and the adhesive lets go of the paint and it starts to crack around the seam - nothing looks worse - so I would recommend a high modulus automotive seam sealer - I purchase mine from Kent Europe but you need a trade account to purchase from them - I've listed a suitable alternative below that's produced by HB Body and sold via a online automotive factors - Again personally I find seam sealer much easier to apply in a cartridge format rather than the 1 litre tin & messy brush method and you have much more control over the neatness where its required - Final words on sealers - never be tempted to use silicone based sealers on automotive bodywork - these contain acids as a curing agent which in turn interacts with metal to a detrimental effect  

www.jawel.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=173&products_id=2812