I'm still considering whether a swinging link or solid connection would be best for this set-up..... hang on, I now have a spare bush on the end of the sump going spare. I wonder if I can cobble something out of that....Hmmmm...
Rover 75 Connie SE (stored) MG ZTT 160 (for sale) Rover 75 Connie Tourer (dog hauler and general shifter) Toyota Starlet Sportif Auto (town car) Maestro 700 van (under build)
Okay, after a day of loading the ZTT with scrap and dumping it, I finally got an hour or so to myself to have a think about the bottom engine mount, and after a few minutes got the metal cutting stuff out, made a plate and buzzed it onto the subframe. It's not tidy, its not pretty, but its on and gives me a base to work from once the engine is lifted to finish the engine bay off. The ratchet strap came off and for the first time, it is in what may be its final position. Maybe....
Rover 75 Connie SE (stored) MG ZTT 160 (for sale) Rover 75 Connie Tourer (dog hauler and general shifter) Toyota Starlet Sportif Auto (town car) Maestro 700 van (under build)
It does look very settled in its new home. Glad to see this being saved and updated, have a soft spot for these Maestro van as i sold them back in the day 😎
So does it run now then?! you've done well so far considering the conditions you have to work in!
Not yet; I have to reign in expenditure a bit for a couple of weeks and need to sort the ECU and wiring loom out - good old MEMS, its just taking a bit longer than expected to track down which one is needed to run coil packs instead of distributor. I have both options open, but would rather go with CP's.
Anyway, as an aside and some lateral thinking, the gearshift came to mind. I had a hunt around the various selling fora for anything useable for the gear linkage; then a thought dropped into my mind. The R50 MINI (the first one) used the Rover Metro gearbox (as it was to have had the K series before it all went a bit wonky), which is the one I have in the van.... hmmm.... and there are LOTS of cable shifts complete for not a lot of cash..... and I have to chop at least one of the linkages about to fit properly.....hmmm........(wanders off stroking chin and pondering...)
Rover 75 Connie SE (stored) MG ZTT 160 (for sale) Rover 75 Connie Tourer (dog hauler and general shifter) Toyota Starlet Sportif Auto (town car) Maestro 700 van (under build)
The sound of Barley the Collie going ballistic at the gate meant there was a delivery today; two actually. One was a Haynes manual to help sort the wiring loom out, the other was the MINI gearshift turning up in pretty damn quick time! For the cost (just over £20 delivered!) I can't complain....
So, On to seeing if my idea would have legs. First thing was to pull the centre console out...
And then have a look underneath at what needed to be removed (sorry about the crappy photo...)
Once the bolts for the rear of the shift mechanism were removed, the gearstick needed a trim to come out as the anti-roll bar/subframe/floor interface wasn't working in my favour. Anyway, a quick buzz and I had this:
Then it was remove the rubber gasket plate and see where we were...
Plenty of space once the foam wedge was slipped out, so roughly insert the MINI shifter and see what needed sorting out
There is a plastic spring clip at the rear near the gearstick and two lugs at the front, as well as four captive bolts. A quick bit of measuring and then a tickle with the buzzer had this (out of focus)...
Prior to this I'd removed a thick heat shield from the trans tunnel - the exhaust will run lower through here so I don't think it will be needed, but its in storage in case... Anyway, the new shift was wiggled into position with the control cables neatly running through where the exhaust went and with some twisting, they will line up with the gearbox linkages. Even better, after some poking with a screwdriver, the gearshift box sat neatly in the hole and all four fixing bolts will line up with solid metal!
And even better, the centre console lines up as well!
Lack of light and weather then put a pause on proceedings - I need to measure the throw of the end knuckles to see how far out the present links are and one will definately need 'adjusting' anyway.
Rover 75 Connie SE (stored) MG ZTT 160 (for sale) Rover 75 Connie Tourer (dog hauler and general shifter) Toyota Starlet Sportif Auto (town car) Maestro 700 van (under build)
Rover 75 Connie SE (stored) MG ZTT 160 (for sale) Rover 75 Connie Tourer (dog hauler and general shifter) Toyota Starlet Sportif Auto (town car) Maestro 700 van (under build)
Rover 75 Connie SE (stored) MG ZTT 160 (for sale) Rover 75 Connie Tourer (dog hauler and general shifter) Toyota Starlet Sportif Auto (town car) Maestro 700 van (under build)
Between other jobs I had a look and chopped the existing connector off the bellcrank for the gear selector. The R-L movement is back-to-front at the lift crank so I may take a leaf out of the MINI book and devise a separate lift system that connects directly to the main bellcrank through rose joints and a lever system. I need to do some fiddling (break out the Meccano!).
Having had a better look at the MINI set-up, I will have to get the cutter and welder out and rearrange the to selector to suit, then fabricate a bellcrank to raise and lower the selector arm. Bit of a faff, but cheaper than the alternative...
How it is now;
How it needs to be (the lift crank to the RHS is missing)
Rover 75 Connie SE (stored) MG ZTT 160 (for sale) Rover 75 Connie Tourer (dog hauler and general shifter) Toyota Starlet Sportif Auto (town car) Maestro 700 van (under build)
Well, it kept bugging me so I broke out the grinder, welder and CAD design gear (pencil, card and ruler). Firstly I had to do some measuring to get the throw right, so at 65mm centres, this happened first...
I don't know why both are upside down but there you go.... I had already trimmed the knuckle off the arm, and looking at the MINI set-up, I decided to make what I had fit. So, first off, a tidy up
Which left this stump:
A quick (fuzzy) comparison of knuckle positions....
And then weld (*roughly) the weight arm on the other way round/up..
And then, using the old ball knuckle, weld that on to give a 65mm radius on the pivot. Yes I know Stevie Wonder would be happy with that welding, but its more for position than tidiness at the moment..
Rover 75 Connie SE (stored) MG ZTT 160 (for sale) Rover 75 Connie Tourer (dog hauler and general shifter) Toyota Starlet Sportif Auto (town car) Maestro 700 van (under build)
So, after getting that lot together, I had to come up with something to mock up a cable support bracket. Out came the CAD again...
Yes, that MINI knuckle fits straight onto the Rover ball.....
A bit of CAD design to find the holes and posistion the 22mm diameter slot for the cable to sit in. Looked OK so I found up some 3mm ally plate that was the right size and quickly converted the card to something a bit more solid. It needed 'shimming' back 10mm to get the angle, then a twist with a piece of steel bar and a bit of fettling, but very soon I had the cable outer anchored to the gearbox in a functional way
That sorted out the for/aft movement in the stick, now it was the lateral that was testing the grey matter. The small selector ball originally faced downwards, but finding it roll pinned onto the lift shaft meant I could remove it and rotate it upwards, thus putting it in a better position and correct orientation for the MINI shift. Putting the 'box into 'R' put the main selector into its closest position to the small ball, so I will adapt whats there to increase throw and still miss the main arm (even if I have to trim it a bit to fit). It's all looking better by the day!
Rover 75 Connie SE (stored) MG ZTT 160 (for sale) Rover 75 Connie Tourer (dog hauler and general shifter) Toyota Starlet Sportif Auto (town car) Maestro 700 van (under build)
Some great progress - noticed that you are still using the old 'Add Attachment' for image uploading and we shall shortly be deleting it from the site - we have a new uploader that will now post full size images (you may still have to resize otherwise they come out huge) - here's the link to the simple instructions
Well, I bit the bullet and after much swearing at myself for 'misplacing' a piece of aluminium, I found it and cracked on with the small selector fitment. Now, it had been unpinned from the shaft, so a quick look had me decide to cut and rotate the ball end to bring it over the top of the gearbox and then extend it away from the pivot to extend the 'throw', so after cutting the end off, I quickly welded it together back-to-front........ GLOBBITS!!! Cut apart and repeat but the right way round......... Once that was in place, I made a holding fork for the end of the cable and positioned it; it did need a 5mm shim to set it far enough back to work properly but eventually, after some trepidation and finally getting rid of the old diesel downpipe, I had 1,2,3,4,5 & R fully functional! Its not pretty, but it works. Now to recreate the whole shebang in a better material! Have some pics...... I may have to resize them....
Rover 75 Connie SE (stored) MG ZTT 160 (for sale) Rover 75 Connie Tourer (dog hauler and general shifter) Toyota Starlet Sportif Auto (town car) Maestro 700 van (under build)
Brilliant stuff. Making it look pretty is the easy bit!
Cheerrs! The new 'right way round' alternator rocked up yesterday and went on; just waiting a new downpipe 'cat' (even though the cat is a manicat...) and MGTF radiator with fan; I can then start routing pipework for coolant. The driveshafts will have to wait until I have acquired new front legs as the diesel spec ones fitted haven't even moved with the lightweight engine fitted, so a pair of 1.3/1.6 ones should do the trick. It keeps moving forwards....
Rover 75 Connie SE (stored) MG ZTT 160 (for sale) Rover 75 Connie Tourer (dog hauler and general shifter) Toyota Starlet Sportif Auto (town car) Maestro 700 van (under build)