Then got the strut tops painted and fitted up with new bits.
Got a little fire going as well
Also dismantled and correctly reassembled the gear stick assembly on the quattro which allowed the gear stick surround to fit properly, but got no pics. Beer and fire were in progress at the time π
Well thats the 200 front bumper, splitter and grill fitted now as well as the v8 tail lights. It's looking so much better already and the splitter fits a lot better with the bumper than it does on the silver one with the 100 bumper. Just need headlights and Indicators now
I've work stop on the silver one due to lack of spares now so instead I've set up the old scalextric in the garage loft. Haven't played this in years!
It's been a little while since I last updated this but the house has been taking up my time. With the kitchen just about finished I can crack on with the audis.Β
So to sum up what's happened so far. I bought a 100 avant turbo. Loved it but it had some running issues and the front end was a bit sloppy. Also wasn't a fan of the auto box. Dropped the front subframe, suspension and gearbox for a refresh and manual swap.
Then a 100 avant quattro turbo turned up cheap so bought that. Decided to refit the 100 avant turbo with original auto box, sell it and keep the 100 avant quattro turbo.
Now a 200 Treser quattro turbo appeared on my radar and I went and bought that. So now that's the keeper π
Anyway. Pictures.
The 100 avant turbo now has a rebuilt front end and gearbox refitted. Engine running issues all sorted. It needs rear discs & pads, rear seat trimmed in leather to match the rest (have the leather) and the headlining needs retrimming too. Few other niff naffy bits as well.Β Then it'll be up for sale.Β
The 100 avant quattro turbo is going back to standard. I'll be painting the lower half below the door rubbing strips and bumpers this summer as well as fitting new front wings and a couple of other little bits. Over the winter I'll get it running and driving and then sell at the start of the summer next year.Β
I have some door cards ready to go on as well and a dash cluster to repair and then fit.
The new arrival on Monday was the 200 Treser quattro turbo. It's come from Scotland where its sat outside for 20 years with a rear door and sunroof not fully closed. It was full of water and rubbish. Engine was in the boot with a bent valve and worn big ends. So far this week I've taken off the damaged treser body kit and stored it in the loft, swapped working door latches onto both rear doors which now close and lock, opened sunroof and cleared out drains and then closed fully. I've emptied it out, cleaned and dried the interior. And today I fitted a standard 200 front bumper, splitter and d11 v8 tail lights. [img src="brm-forum-image-store.s3.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/1903961/IMG_20210412_133019.jpg" src="https://brm-forum-image-store.s3.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/1903961/IMG_20210412_115431.jpg" style="max-width:100%;"]
Post by grumpynorthener on Apr 17, 2021 7:38:27 GMT
Always nice to find others on here that in the same 'Up to the Neck' position that I find myself consistently bathed in - yet we always find room for yet one more - Ivan, the car port is that a recentish addition too ?
The carport went up last summer. I only got half the roof done last year though. Once I've sold the 100 turbo I'll do the other half and get the ground underneath it concreted.
I don't suppose you've sprayed pearlescents by any chance? π
Went to do the rear discs on the 100 avant turbo today. The reason this car came off the road in the first place.
It didn't go well π Looks like I ordered the wrong discs
And it turns out the left side damper has spat its oil out
So a bit of a washout. I managed to free off the seized left caliper and lubricated it all up and regressed the sliders. The red paint was looking tired so wire-brushed it back and gave it a fresh coat.
At least it'll be dry by the time the new discs turn up
The carport went up last summer. I only got half the roof done last year though. Once I've sold the 100 turbo I'll do the other half and get the ground underneath it concreted.
I don't suppose you've sprayed pearlescents by any chance? π
Pearlescents - Yep - man of your talents will soon master it with some some guidance - let me know when you are ready & I'll walk / talk you through the process (better that you start with a practice panel first)
The carport went up last summer. I only got half the roof done last year though. Once I've sold the 100 turbo I'll do the other half and get the ground underneath it concreted.
I don't suppose you've sprayed pearlescents by any chance? π
Pearlescents - Yep - man of your talents will soon master it with some some guidance - let me know when you are ready & I'll walk / talk you through the process (better that you start with a practice panel first)Β Β
It'll be interesting to do that's for sure. It turns out that there's a bloke about 4 doors up from me in a lockup which at some point must have been a car garage. He builds lamborghini countash replicas. Anyway it has on one side a devil bliss water filtered, heated booth. It's currently not working as the previous owners had mucked about with it and used it as a grow room for their weed farm π. He's trying to get it up and working and it could be the ideal place to spray this. It's definitely a skill I want to learn
Post by grumpynorthener on Apr 17, 2021 18:48:49 GMT
Depending on what type of paint job you want on the car - if its a decent / good quality one you picked a decent car to work with - from memory the doors detach from the car pretty easily and the glass, upper frame & window regulator all detach from the door shells as one unit - hence you can undertake any repairs then paint them off the car - boot & bonnet are easy - I think the front wings are bolt on too - the nightmare is the front & rear screens - that stainless trim with the rubber edge attached to it that runs around the screens is a pig - making it extremely difficult to remove either the trim off the glass in one piece as these are a bonded to the body fitment - you may get lucky with the rear screen if it has to come out by cutting it from the inside but the front screen is laminated and there's a very high chance it will break whilst being removed - whilst the screens will still be available - I'm unsure that the screen trims will be
Yeah upper door frames detach from the doors, front wings are bolt on, as is the front valance. All panels are quite flat.
The bit I'm worried about is the rear screen. As you say the rubber seal and stainless trim is fitted to the glass and then the whole lot is bonded to the car. I'm not bothered about the windscreen as that is already cracked. The rear screen has the impossible to find quattro script heating element and I really don't want to break that.
From what I've heard you can either save the glass or save the rubber trim when removing these windows. So I don't mind smashing the front screen to bits to save the front rubber and trim. I'm really worried about getting a windscreen guy that's competent enough to remove the rear screen without cracking it though. I already have a mate who can supply a second hand seal and trim for the rear.
But yes, I'd like to do the best job possible with regards the paint.
Post by grumpynorthener on Apr 18, 2021 7:51:33 GMT
Ivan - Ideally then the screens would have to come out - the rear screen should be toughened not laminated and with care should come out - I would recommend protecting the heating element by masking it up - one slight graze and you loose the circuit (unless Audi did something special for low volume / high spec models and fitted laminated HRW - it will be worth reading up on) - the cheese wire trick wont work as this cuts into the rubber on the trim - the trim is also held onto the glass with small teeth like segregations of the stainless trim that the wire gets hooked up on then digs into the glass - you should be able to remove all the inner trim from around the aperture then use a very sharp stanley type blade of the longer but solid type variety and cut the bonding from close to the body - You can start to apply some pressure to open the cut up which makes the ongoing cuts easier - you should be able to do the same from the front especially if you plan on removing the dash at all - obviously speaking from direct experience here - I was employed in a technical capacity for one of the counties largest aftermarket windscreen manufacture & fitting companies - I think you are a good lump of miles away from me but remind me again of where you are in location - I might be able to help - Chris
Glad to see I am not the only nutter trying to restore a car outside in the rain etc. Going to show my neighbours a picture of a "Clarke" tubular frame canvas garage and check they will not complain about it before buying one. I think there is a good chance I could fit it close enough to the garage door such that with the front unzipped the up and over door would open into the opening giving me light, access to tools and privacy as well as protecting the house and cars from grinding fragments eating into paintwork.
Needs must! You can get a 3mx3m gazebo off of ebay so was going to do that. I only need to have it up for spraying so can take it down and out of sight the rest of the time
unless Audi did something special for low volume / high spec models and fitted laminated HRW - it will be worth reading up on
If it's anything like the coupe for the same year, the rear screen isn't laminated. I found that out the hard way in a local scrapyard many years ago when trying to get a tinted rear screen out of an ur-quattro shell to go in my coupe quattro. They were good enough not to charge me for it.
Ivan - Ideally then the screens would have to come out - the rear screen should be toughened not laminated and with care should come out - I would recommend protecting the heating element by masking it up - one slight graze and you loose the circuit (unless Audi did something special for low volume / high spec models and fitted laminated HRW - it will be worth reading up on) - the cheese wire trick wont work as this cuts into the rubber on the trim - the trim is also held onto the glass with small teeth like segregations of the stainless trim that the wire gets hooked up on then digs into the glass - you should be able to remove all the inner trim from around the aperture then use a very sharp stanley type blade of the longer but solid type variety and cut the bonding from close to the body - You can start to apply some pressure to open the cut up which makes the ongoing cuts easier - you should be able to do the same from the front especially if you plan on removing the dash at all - obviously speaking from direct experience here - I was employed in a technical capacity for one of the counties largest aftermarket windscreen manufacture & fitting companies - I think you are a good lump of miles away from me but remind me again of where you are in location - I might be able to help - ChrisΒ
Sorry I missed this when scrolling by.
The rear heating element isn't protected with any extra laminate so I'll take your advice and mask it up.
That technique with a long stanley blade sounds like the right approach. Would love to be able to save the trim as well as the screen, although saving the screen is paramount.