Chris - On the subject of lead loading, thank you for sharing this with us all. It's not for me, but I am very much aware that you can pay good money for this advice, which you willingly give us all for nothing. I am, as I'm sure we all are, as usual, very grateful.
Badwolf - Maybe its not for you but you never know - should you ever go to have some work undertaken on a car and the workshop tells you that the area will require lead loading at least you will understand why and what's involved - Has for people paying money for my advice where's the generosity or fun in that - If I'm giving my advice freely I can choose who and whom not I address it to - should they pay for it - it then becomes a little tricky if the person(s) that you are attempting to teach are not the type you wish to teach in the first place - So I'll just stick with what I do here for free
Post by grumpynorthener on Apr 5, 2022 20:14:07 GMT
Final fine skimming coat on the nearside rear quarter
Blocked back
The gapping between the bottom of the door and the wheelarch will require closing up but this I will undertake in one of the next phase of works when I replace the outer sills and can tie the bottom of the arch to the top of the sill / door step aperture
But the rest of it is fine
I need to reduce the gapping on the upper section of the D post though
Cleaned back & ready for lead loading - tricky because the D post timber is alongside the metal panel that I want to apply heat / flame to in order to apply the lead
Some time later - lead loaded & dressed back - polyester skimming filler applied and sanded back
Door keeps & stops refitted to check alignment prior to the panel being primed
Rain channel for the boot was cleaned of the mastic to the rear of it
Then trail fitted to allow the drilling of the holes into the replaced panel area to secure the channel
Rear valance was in a mess
With weak / rusted out flange edges - so nothing to secure it to the rear quarters with
And a very rusty rear side
Let in new repairs to the nearside first then trail fitted
Offside requires some alteration to allow for the bumper iron aperture
Resolved
I want to keep the paint repairs to a minimum so I'll be locally repairing each end with a little filler & paint and retaining the rest of the paint & patina to the panel
New bracket made up that braces the bottom centre of the valance - the original one had rusted to nothing
The valance was then removed and the rear of it cleaned up prior to being treated with a heavy application of Hydrate 80
The new rear wing required some aperture holes welding up along with a few repairs here & there
I'll dress this back in the morning - many other smaller jobs completed as the car will only be in the workshop for the next few days - I'm coming to the end of works for this phase and it will be returning to the museum in the next few weeks - Other works will be progressed whilst the car is at the museum through our Northern Section club members with the car returning to me probably early next year to undertake the next phase of the bodywork
Going back to Hydrate 80 if I may, do you have issues with putting it on outer surfaces which will later be painted? I put some on some areas on the inside of my rear quarter prior to fitting it last week, then followed it with a coat of aerosol red oxide primer. I could see the areas of Hydrate 80 treatment clearly once the primer had dried. Is it just that I'd put it on too thick, or that the primer was too thin? Will it be the case that the high-build layer(s) on the outer surface will cover that? I didn't use it on the previous project, so I've not been through this bit yet.
Going back to Hydrate 80 if I may, do you have issues with putting it on outer surfaces which will later be painted? I put some on some areas on the inside of my rear quarter prior to fitting it last week, then followed it with a coat of aerosol red oxide primer. I could see the areas of Hydrate 80 treatment clearly once the primer had dried. Is it just that I'd put it on too thick, or that the primer was too thin? Will it be the case that the high-build layer(s) on the outer surface will cover that? I didn't use it on the previous project, so I've not been through this bit yet.
Probably due to the primer being too thin and showing the Hydrate through especially with it drying dark / black upon curing - Absolutely no issues with using it on the external face of panels / body areas but always key it once cured prior to applying the primer - Your primer build layers will cover it fine and I've been using the product / these methods for a good number of years without any issues or comeback at a later date - Hydrate 80 will accept all substrates too so you can apply polyester filler etc over the top of it if required
Post by grumpynorthener on Apr 6, 2022 20:15:28 GMT
Welded areas to the nearside rear wing dressed back
And the hidden / overlap areas under the quarter panel & rear inner wheelarch were cleaned back with the DA
Wing was then fitted to the car
Besides checking that the profile still largely matched that of the rear quarter panel - its much better to work / profile panels like this whilst they are attached to the car rather than chase them around the workshop floor or attempt to work them on a bench
Rear profile is splayed out - it should be retained with a bracket
That is well past its sell by date
New bracket fabricated & fitted
At this point we had a power cut for an hour but I kept working with my rechargeable lamps
Several areas shrunk back with heat - the remaining panel trued up with a hammer & dolly then keyed back with P80's on the DA
Power back on and the first skimming of filler
Profiled back prior to being followed by a second skimming
Then a third and here seen in its 4th & final coat
Rear valance has been profiled back on the outer flange edges too
I did a 10 week course at college on a Saturday morning which for the most part was a waste of money but I did have a go at lead loading but thankfully on a horizontal panel. The paddles we used were soaked in linseed oil. I've never done it since but can remember being suitably impressed by it and seeing your sterling efforts have reinforced that.
Post by grumpynorthener on Apr 8, 2022 7:37:37 GMT
Nearside rear wing on its final profiling
Wing removed and the rear quarter panel & D post in final prep & masking
Wing & rear valance placed to panel stand
All worked areas & panels were coated with a 2 pack epoxy high build filler / primer
Fuel tank outer surfaces cleaned up - the tank will require the inner surfaces cleaning & coating at a later stage
New rubber mounting pads cut for the tank
Fuel tank fitted - It will need to be removed again at a later date to allow access for welded repairs to the offside chassis / body mounting - the tank can at this stage have the inner surfaces cleaned & treated - However, I wanted the tank fitted at this stage so that Paul who is sorting the new exhaust system can ensure that the tail pipe clears the fuel tank
Rain gutter rail refitted to the rear shroud panel along with the rear valance
Closely followed by the boot lid
The car is full of little design quirks which is quite remarkable for its era - a small tongue catch on either side of the hinges holds the boot lid in the horizontally open position
Like so
To which you would place your oversize suitcases or wicker picnic hamper which wouldn't fit in the boot space
Originally they would have been a leather strap on either side retained by a shallow U clamp to fasten the luggage into place with
The temporary frame / bracing will remain in position until the repairs to the offside body mounting is undertaken in one of the next phases of work but this is likely to be early next year
Rear bumper refitted and the number plate straightened up slightly
The rolled inner edge of the rear wing is a complete water trap hence this was sealed prior to fitting the wing
Wing fitted
Complete with new piping bead between the wing & quarter panel
Paint on the boot lid was given a quick polish which is how the car will be presented once its completed - all the rust spots will remain untouched - freshly painted areas will worked back to show polished through areas that are consistent with the rest of the paint on the car - I just have some loose parts to box up now and the car is heading back to the museum to go on display as a work in progress exhibit in the transport gallery - It is hoped that the Jowett Car Clubs Northern Section members will hold a few work parties whilst the car is there to sort some of the wiring / exhaust routing along with removal of the engine in order to sort the nearside cylinder issues out - My work will continue on the car probably at the start of next year
Post by grumpynorthener on Apr 10, 2022 6:50:49 GMT
All depends on what your budget is - there's some cheap rubbish out there that's useless that don't have a concentrated flame or flare up / extinguish the flame if you tilt the lamp - personally I prefer the Mapp gas canister type - the cartridge type are ok and both the gas cartridge & torches cheaper in price - good brands are: Rothenberger, Monument - you can readily spend £50 - £100 on a decent set up - I'd have a trawl arround the web and see what you can find but avoid any cheap Far Eastern import / unknown brands
Thanks Chris, I'm willing to pay for quality gear, I use my old one regularly but if was a cheapo with all the issues you describe, had already mentally chosen a Rothenberger Surefire 2, but always worth getting others opinions 😀
Has this been returned to the Museum now? Will it be on display until the next visit to GT?
It returns to the museum next Tuesday (19th April) and yes it goes back on display - we hope to have a few work parties whilst the car is on display in order to advance the works too and maintain the momentum behind the project
Post by grumpynorthener on Apr 20, 2022 10:18:46 GMT
Loaded
Delivered back to the museum yesterday
And now back on display with the rest of it's Jowett friends - we shall be organising a few work parties at the museum in order to maintain the momentum behind the project in order to return the car to the road
Post by grumpynorthener on Aug 12, 2024 6:34:47 GMT
Purpose of the visit was to remove the engine
The steering box & column has to be removed to allow this
And eventually out it came
Then loaded to a members van for onwards transport to another member who just happens to be a retired motor engineer / garage owner but he still builds Jowett vintage engines - He will strip & rebuild the engine
Car has been left on display - a further small work party will attend at a future date to clean & prepare the engine bay in advance of the rebuilt engine being refitted
