Started on the offside rear arch/ back panel and after much stress and advise from Chris eventually at the 7th attempt managed this. A bit more fettling to do and hopefully when let in to the panel it will be an acceptable fit
There is quite a big gap between the bumper and the rear panel which they all have but this is bridged with a screw on panel which fits below the lip and sits inside the bumper. That needs work too as it is somewhat crusty and fragile.
I would like to say more tomorrow but don't hold your breath.
Bit of a struggle (nightmare really) but got the repair welded on eventually. Problem I had was was that when it was fully clamped on at the rear it made the front tip up because the rear panel is not vertical. Couldn't face starting from scratch again so had to cut it and bend it down then fill in the cut. Not ideal and got some distortion but max 3mm maybe 2mm below the rear light will sort that and the bulk of it will be hidden by the bumper.
Bit more to do before the panel I got from France gets welded on.
Had trouble welding the repair panel onto the car. Instead of a nice crackling arc I was getting a sort of fizzing noise and it was not easy to weld. tested the welder on some scrap (new) metal and it was perfect. Don't know if the old car is made out of some weird metal because it was nice and clean.
Not a lot achieved today. Yesterday I cut a small rusty hole in the boot back to sound metal and butt welded in a patch. Quite happy with how that turned out although not exactly complicated.
Today was wasted trying to make a repair panel for the inner wing which incorporated the seal for the fuel filler hose as it passed through a double skin. This is the bit I cut out although it needs to be cut out more
Had a try at making a new one but it bends in all directions. I have trial fitted the seal which needs to align perfectly.
Not the best picture but sort of shows what needs to be done. Luckily I had previously cut a large section from the boot/inner wing as it was corroded and this helps with access.
A picture I found on Leboncoin (French Ebay sort of thing) of the full panel. The area I have marked in red is what I am trying to do and later I will have to replace the area in blue.( most likely in numerous sections.)
Very frustrating day today and going to be hard motivating myself to try again tomorrow but need to get this done before I can tackle the outer arch.
Ray - How are you currently attempting to form the repair section - do you have a sandbag & bossing mallet at all ?
I've got my knee and a big rubber mallet and that's about it. Even if I had a sandbag, tree stump or whatever I doubt I would have the skill to use it.
Dont do yourself down mate , you are getting stuck in and making remarkable progress. Get some kit and for want of a better phrase "have a bash"..! Try some practice pieces and im sure you will get there.
Post by grumpynorthener on Aug 6, 2021 7:48:16 GMT
Ray - You may have already done this but just go have a hunt about on You Tube for some automotive metalworking videos - I wouldn't particularly go for the high end professional type that have a large workshop & loads of equipment either - a simple rounded mallet & a sandbag is what I use - you can also give some thought to forming the repair in more than one section then welding them together too - if all else fails see if you can find a panel maker / sheet metal worker somewhere local to you that might undertake roughing the basic shape out for you
Ray - You may have already done this but just go have a hunt about on You Tube for some automotive metalworking videos - I wouldn't particularly go for the high end professional type that have a large workshop & loads of equipment either - a simple rounded mallet & a sandbag is what I use - you can also give some thought to forming the repair in more than one section then welding them together too - if all else fails see if you can find a panel maker / sheet metal worker somewhere local to you that might undertake roughing the basic shape out for you
Thanks Chris. I have watched numerous videos on Youtube where amazing work is done with basic tools but transferring that to practical is not as easy as they (and you) make it look. Making the repair in more than one section is most likely the way this is headed. I wasn't that far from having it acceptable yesterday and will try again today. Really want to progress with the outer arch but need this done first to give some rigidity to the panels.
In between various distractions slow painful progress has been made. Before carrying on with the inner wing repair I thought it best to repair the fuel cap area as that was corroded and holed and also had pin holes in the wing next to that.Had a few tries before getting it right. Strip of metal bent to 90 degrees the used the shrinker to get the curve, another bend for the mounting lug then weld it in. Not perfect but should do.
There is some adjustment available to centralise the cap.
Also got some work done on the inner wing. The hole in the boot is handy for access so that will be the last part to be done. The lower section still needs cutting / bending / adjusting but I think I need the outer arch sorted first. The remaining inner arch repair should be easier as it will just be e few inches deep.
The postman brought me these today which should be handy.
A little progress today but now stuck. I think I am capable of doing what needs to be done but just don't know how to go about it. Quite a lot to cover so easy one first.
This flange is not filled in flush on all the pictures I have seen. Some owners look to have put just a few external tacks then painted the panel. I am assuming the flanges should be spot welded and I should be able to borrow a spot welder but how do you prepare the joint? Weld through primer, spot weld it, try and force paint into the seam then seam sealer and scrape it out to leave a visible joint?
The repair arch I am using is wider than it should be (BMW2002) and needs to be pulled in to the level of the panel you can see behind the arch. Originally I had thought to cut a section out of the centre of the arch which could work but making the alteration lower down might be less noticeable. How should I go about this?
Had to post the above before I was ready as things seemed to lock up.
The front of the repair section is bowed out as it is slightly curved and needs to be more or less flat. I think the curve of the arch is so strong it is stopping me from getting this to lie flat. Could I shrink or stretch (can't get my head around this) or will I have to make a cut somewhere.
Sorry for all the questions and thanks for any advice. Can post more pics if that would help. First time I have used these Cleco fasteners and they are brilliant.
Post by grumpynorthener on Aug 12, 2021 19:53:26 GMT
Ok Ray - lets do them in the order that you have raised them - virtually spot on with the first one the flange, weld through primer then weld the flange from behind if possible or better still spot welded - key the area & prime - apply seam sealer by wiping it into the seam then cleaning off any excess with panel wipe - reprime once the seam sealer has cured - I wouldn't bother sealing the seam until you have all your panels profiled and you are getting closer to paint
Its the overall wheelarch width that requires reduction - easily done by cutting a section out of the centre of the panel and rejoining it - to attempt altering the panel on the lower rear of the repair panel would be nothing but hard work and you would most likely loose the profile of the wheelarch in the process resulting in much more work
The front of the repair panel - firstly I would remove any excess from the repair panel that is not required - if you have sound original steel under it - then see how it fits - the panel currently is too deep for you to make any difference with a shrinker (unless its of a deeper throat capacity) What you will have to do here is make a few pie cuts into the repair panel to relieve it - that way you should be able to flair it flush into the original panel
Its all a learning game but you have persistence & confidence on your side along with the fact that you are not afraid to ask when you need advice - you'll be fine and if not I'm here to help where I can
Ok Ray - lets do them in the order that you have raised them - virtually spot on with the first one the flange, weld through primer then weld the flange from behind if possible or better still spot welded - key the area & prime - apply seam sealer by wiping it into the seam then cleaning off any excess with panel wipe - reprime once the seam sealer has cured - I wouldn't bother sealing the seam until you have all your panels profiled and you are getting closer to paint
Its the overall wheelarch width that requires reduction - easily done by cutting a section out of the centre of the panel and rejoining it - to attempt altering the panel on the lower rear of the repair panel would be nothing but hard work and you would most likely loose the profile of the wheelarch in the process resulting in much more work
The front of the repair panel - firstly I would remove any excess from the repair panel that is not required - if you have sound original steel under it - then see how it fits - the panel currently is too deep for you to make any difference with a shrinker (unless its of a deeper throat capacity) What you will have to do here is make a few pie cuts into the repair panel to relieve it - that way you should be able to flair it flush into the original panel
Its all a learning game but you have persistence & confidence on your side along with the fact that you are not afraid to ask when you need advice - you'll be fine and if not I'm here to help where I can
Once again thanks for your time and the benefit of your experience Chris. Cutting a section out of the centre of the arch was my initial thought but it was the joining up again I was worried about. Big breath and go for it tomorrow. Not sure how much metal is left under the repair panel at the front although I did not cut it all out to start with so will check on that tomorrow.
Sorry Chris but one more question. When welding the repair panel should you have a gap or a tight fit. I have seen both on YouTube including one man who does great work with basic tools and he tacks the repair panel on top of the old then cuts through at 45 degrees so the repair slots in perfectly. Thanks.
Sorry Chris but one more question. When welding the repair panel should you have a gap or a tight fit. I have seen both on YouTube including one man who does great work with basic tools and he tacks the repair panel on top of the old then cuts through at 45 degrees so the repair slots in perfectly. Thanks.
All depends on how you prefer to work - It can be done either way - the 45 degree angle trick sort of works but don't forget that you will loose the thickness of the cutting disc in making the cut and the weld can close / shrink the join further has it cools hence I cant state that I'm a fan of the process
