if my memory serves me , they are both the shape of the second one but one has a plastic case and the other metal. i could be totally wrong though!
If I'm honest I wasn't sure either, although a quick Google shows the Mk1 and Mk2 tool kits being the same, also the same as an early E-Type. You can guess what that does to prices. They seem to sell for £300 and upwards depending on condition. There one a on EBay right now for £650!!!
With the announcement of the second lockdown I realised I need to make sure I can still work on the car in some way. Currently it's in a garage 6 miles from my house, and although it's within electrical extension reach from my parents house, it's not exactly essential travel or a good idea to see my already ill parents. So, what to do....
Remove the subframe! So that was today's task. It wasn't too difficult with only around 8 bolts, 2 flexi hoses and the lower steering column. I can now strip this in the garage at home, clean and replate all the bolts, and send the big bits for powdercoating. With a little work over winter I should have a nice chunk done!
So shortly after the last update the wheels were removed from the subframe, and the whole lot was manhandled into the back of my car and taken home. I think this was Wednesday evening?
Since then I've spent an hour or two here and there and managed to get the complete subframe stripped down. There are still a few bushes and bearings to press out, and the steering assembly to strip but the suspension is now ready to go for blasting and powdercoating.
Everything came apart really well, only one snapped bolt on the whole assembly. I better start buying parts!
I've not worked on the Jaguar for a month or so now, to be honest I felt (and still feel) a little overwhelmed by the amount of work needed, frustrated by a lack of progress and expense of pretty much every part, especially the Mk1 specific ones. I have to admit, I considered selling the car.
Luckily, I managed to snap out of it a little and some small progress has made me feel a lot better. I guess the trick from now on will be to make whatever progress I can, however small as its all part of the resroration and will add up to a finished car.
So, first up was to buy an engine stand capable of holding the XK lump, assemble it and after buying some long high tensile 3/8 unf bolts, get it mounted.
Then it was time to drain the sump, something I've wanted to do for a while now as I knew from the top end strip that a lot of water had made it's way in there. I have a video of this but essentially it was 3 or 4 litres of water then some horrible grey gunge. I left it tilted on the stand overnight to drain as much as possible.
Tonight's job was to get the sump off and start to remove all the con rod bearing caps. This was easier said than done as the crank won't rotate, and each bolt has a 1/2 castellated nut and a split pin. After removing the oil pump and pickup to ease access I got there in the end. Lastly I knocked down all the lock tabs and removed the main bearing caps.
The sump looks pretty grim and will want a really good clean and out before re-using it.
So that's it for now, hopefully by this weekend I'll have the timing cover off and the crank out, then I can attack those pistons.
I've not worked on the Jaguar for a month or so now, to be honest I felt (and still feel) a little overwhelmed by the amount of work needed, frustrated by a lack of progress and expense of pretty much every part, especially the Mk1 specific ones. I have to admit, I considered selling the car.
Luckily, I managed to snap out of it a little and some small progress has made me feel a lot better. I guess the trick from now on will be to make whatever progress I can, however small as its all part of the resroration and will add up to a finished car.
So, first up was to buy an engine stand capable of holding the XK lump, assemble it and after buying some long high tensile 3/8 unf bolts, get it mounted.
Then it was time to drain the sump, something I've wanted to do for a while now as I knew from the top end strip that a lot of water had made it's way in there. I have a video of this but essentially it was 3 or 4 litres of water then some horrible grey gunge. I left it tilted on the stand overnight to drain as much as possible.
Tonight's job was to get the sump off and start to remove all the con rod bearing caps. This was easier said than done as the crank won't rotate, and each bolt has a 1/2 castellated nut and a split pin. After removing the oil pump and pickup to ease access I got there in the end. Lastly I knocked down all the lock tabs and removed the main bearing caps.
The sump looks pretty grim and will want a really good clean and out before re-using it.
So that's it for now, hopefully by this weekend I'll have the timing cover off and the crank out, then I can attack those pistons.
Ooh, nasty . Reminds me of a Mini engine I bought a few years ago. Chap insisted it had always been under cover despite the green moss on the block saying otherwise! Pulled the sump plug and got a few litres of water followed by a few more of gunge. Real kicker was that someone had spent money on it; it had a Kent cam, Cooper head and solid skirt pistons that were salvageable, pity that all I really wanted was the remote change gearbox and that was toast! Will be following as I do like a Jag
Thanks guys, I've calmed down a bit now and realised that it doesn't matter when it's done really, as long as it gets done. A combination of frustration and impatience but I'm past it now. My wife loves the car and has since promised to give me a slap if I mention selling again, so that should help.
Does anyone have and ideas how to get the completely seized pistons out of the bores? I've soaked them in penetrating oil for weeks, diesel and ATF mix, hit them with a big chunk of wood...nothing. I'm thinking I may have to smash the pistons out...
Thanks guys, I've calmed down a bit now and realised that it doesn't matter when it's done really, as long as it gets done. A combination of frustration and impatience but I'm past it now. My wife loves the car and has since promised to give me a slap if I mention selling again, so that should help.
Does anyone have and ideas how to get the completely seized pistons out of the bores? I've soaked them in penetrating oil for weeks, diesel and ATF mix, hit them with a big chunk of wood...nothing. I'm thinking I may have to smash the pistons out...
Thanks guys, I've calmed down a bit now and realised that it doesn't matter when it's done really, as long as it gets done. A combination of frustration and impatience but I'm past it now. My wife loves the car and has since promised to give me a slap if I mention selling again, so that should help.
Does anyone have and ideas how to get the completely seized pistons out of the bores? I've soaked them in penetrating oil for weeks, diesel and ATF mix, hit them with a big chunk of wood...nothing. I'm thinking I may have to smash the pistons out...
I ended up taking mine to an engine shop. It was the same shop that ended up boring the block, but, I had them remove the very very solidly encased piston. Not exactly sure what he did but it took no time at all.
Thanks guys, I've calmed down a bit now and realised that it doesn't matter when it's done really, as long as it gets done. A combination of frustration and impatience but I'm past it now. My wife loves the car and has since promised to give me a slap if I mention selling again, so that should help.
Does anyone have and ideas how to get the completely seized pistons out of the bores? I've soaked them in penetrating oil for weeks, diesel and ATF mix, hit them with a big chunk of wood...nothing. I'm thinking I may have to smash the pistons out...
I've heard of acetone (nail varnish remover) mixed 50 /50 with ATF is a good method / produces the results - but never had the need to try it yet
You already used penetrating oil, so this trick will no longer work.
But next time, use water.
Its a slow process but it works.
Its a trick passed on from an old timer to a buddy of mine, and I've used it on a couple of engines, and on a rare finned aluminum brake drum that was rusted to the brake shoes ( dunked the entire drum, backingplate, hub, spindle, etc, as a unit in a pail of water and let it sit, it just unbolted a couple of days later )
BTW, the WD in WD40 stands for water displacement.
. Reminds me of a Mini engine I bought a few years ago. Chap insisted it had always been under cover despite the green moss on the block saying otherwise! Pulled the sump plug and got a few litres of water followed by a few more of gunge. Real kicker was that someone had spent money on it; it had a Kent cam, Cooper head and solid skirt pistons that were salvageable, pity that all I really wanted was the remote change gearbox and that was toast!
