I have a metal / more sturdy tracking gauge should you wish to loan it (I rarely use it) - I'm heading over your way one day next week to collect a rebuilt gearbox from a club member and could drop it off if required
Thanks Chris, but no need this home-brew one works well enough.
I like a nice dashboard in my cars, currently the pickup has a fuel gauge, non-working ammeter, dubious speedo, and a couple of aftermarket gauges, in an iffy panel.
As I've been in the States, I filled my suitcase with goodies, and fired up the 3D printer when I got back, and came up with this prototype.
The fuel gauge is the original one to the vehicle, as I bought it. Warning lights are vintage Dialco items. Big hole on the left is for an oil pressure gauge that got damaged in shipment - doh ! I'm still messing about with switch positions, but overall - I like the look. Switches will be pull switches with custom knobs to match the choke and throttle pulls.
The plan is to get that professionally printed as one piece, and bond it onto the exisiting dash. A bit of filler, and then paint it all the original cream colour. Hopefully it will look 1/2 factory 1/2 hotrod, and not age dreadfully like the billet panels.
I also threw in the suitcase, all the seals and rubbers I could find to refresh the doors. One glass is broken, presumably because it rattles around so much.
Also picked up a simple hood stay kit, and I can now do this with my hood. Previously it was open one side at a time, and chip the paint as you lay it on the opposing side.
I've also adjusted the tracking to factory specs, but not test driven it yet. Eagle eye readers will notice, that I'm missing a horn/indicator. The welds fractured, and I need to fix that asap.
Not done anything about chassis straightening yet, as I've still got more US travel planned. But will need to attack that in the New Year, as I'm booked to do the Pendine beach race in June '24.
I like a nice dashboard in my cars, currently the pickup has a fuel gauge, non-working ammeter, dubious speedo, and a couple of aftermarket gauges, in an iffy panel.
As I've been in the States, I filled my suitcase with goodies, and fired up the 3D printer when I got back, and came up with this prototype.
Time for a quick test-drive after setting the tracking, and fixing the horn/indicator bracket.
Kill two birds with one stone, and take the empties to the bottle bank. Yes, the bottle run from our house does need the services of a pickup truck
Drives and steers so much better Unsurprisingly setting the tracking to factory specs has made all the difference, and it no longer feels lethal !! I drove it over lots of speed bumps, and it behaves consistantly. I've even got more self-centering, now the wheels aren't figting each other. Also now the wheels aren't fighing each other, shows a little bit of play in the steering box. I'm sure it is something a bit of adjustment will improve upon.
I couldn't face lying on the concrete today, so I did something more fun.
First I took the drivers door off, as it is always in the way, with the right hinge pin tool, painless Then I unscrewed the dashboard.
Using one of my earlier 3D prints, I could line up on the centre of the speedo and mark a line for a cut.
I had thought long and hard, about doing a major cut, into a largely original 1930's dash. My compromise was to do the cut as neatly as I could, with a jigsaw and retain the panel. Should I or anyone else wish to revert the changes in the future.
I then fitted everything up temporarily. That panel is just glued in, nothing more for now. I needed to check for clearance around the back of the instruments, especially where the cowl vent is. I quick 2cm tweak to the lever of the cowl vent gives me more space for the wiring.
A close up reveals the curve near to the choke lever, needs a bit of a tweak. But overall I'm super happy.
The idea was to get the outer lip on the panel, as close as I could to the original design of the dash, which I believe I've achieved.
I've got the pull switches on order, when I've test fitted those, I'll attempt to get that panel reprinted in ABS or similar, in one piece, then bond it into the dash, probably with Sikaflex. Then paint everything cream. I'm going to try and get the cream matched, to a 2K direct to gloss, a bit more chip resistant, than what I have currently.
In order to make that dash work as intended, I need some more electrical components. Pretty much everything installed currently is going in the bin, there are a lot of previous owner bodges, and the stuff Henry Ford put in is 89 years old I assume.
The starter, doesn't look in the first flush of youth, but appears to work, so that can stay. Ignition points have been replaced with a Petronix ignitor system, with matching flame thrower coil, so that can stay too.
Main battery wiring, and cutoff switch, I've tidied and reworked where necessary. Rear lights and loom, I've already replaced.
Ignition switch and steering lock is period correct and super cool IMHO, so that is staying too.
But various shopping trips have netted this little pile.
Main item is a 12-way fusebox, it is a design I used on the Morris, it has busbars built in, which simplifies the wiring. I'm going to power that off of the original ignition switch, but feed it though the big relay. Fusebox is rated for 75A which is plenty.
I'm going to try and future proof the wiring, there will be some spare circuits with a 12 way fuse box. One will be for an electric fan, should it ever prove necessary, that will be driven by the relay in the piccie. Another will be for electric power steering, which is a long way off, but now is the time to provision for it. Also a heater fan and a couple of other creature comforts.
Also in the piccie is a retro style column indicator switch, along with a flasher relay. That switch is a bit more user friendly than the switch I have currently. The red button also provides hazard flashers, which can't be a bad thing in an old car.
I'll be designing a bracket(s) so that all tucks up behind the dash, and out of the line of sight.
Then I need to sit down in a quiet room, and work out what wire I've got left over from previous projects and what I need to order.
One thing, for wiring I also need to ponder is, future maintenance. In theory I can remove major components such as the cab, load bay, radiator shell. I don't want to paint myself into a corner and have to cut wires in the future. So I'm looking at some kind of connectors.
Bullets are period correct, but largely horrible, especially in bunches of wires.
I'm thinking about Deutsch connectors, but they don't look period correct, so I need to be careful where I place them.
I also think I might need different sizes of kit for different wire gauges - which makes it complicated and expensive. Nothing is ever simple
One thing, for wiring I also need to ponder is, future maintenance. In theory I can remove major components such as the cab, load bay, radiator shell. I don't want to paint myself into a corner and have to cut wires in the future. So I'm looking at some kind of connectors.
Bullets are period correct, but largely horrible, especially in bunches of wires.
I'm thinking about Deutsch connectors, but they don't look period correct, so I need to be careful where I place them.
I also think I might need different sizes of kit for different wire gauges - which makes it complicated and expensive. Nothing is ever simple
Definitely not period correct for your project but in the process of fitting out my T5 as a campervan I've discovered Wago connectors, highly recommended!
I've been a bit quite - sorry about that - but I've been away for work for 3 weeks. Before I went, I tackled a job that is supposedly a swine - steering wheel removal. Removing the wheel will give a lot more space in cab whilst I'm working on the dash and the rewire.
An offcut of Unimog torque tube (don't ask) was fashioned into a collar to slide over the steering column, and pull upon.
I wrapped that ring, in an old intercooler hose, to protect the wheel as much as possible. Got the big'o'puller on it
Popped straight off - guess it has been removed relatively recently.
Then it was jump on a plane to USA. Whilst the exchange rate for us Brits, isn't what it once was. It is still a great place to go shopping for parts and tools. I visited a few local emporiums and abused my Amazon account, and the hotel front desk, and ended up with this haul of tools.
The big heavy plate on the left, is a stupid thing to put in a suitcase, but is designed for lifting FlatHead engines, like mine out. The hand held rivnut gun sets metric and imperial rivnuts. I've got an extra packet of 10/32 rivnuts, a box of matching screws, and some 3D printing inserts in the same useful size. Some of the bits were floating about at work, and it was my duty to tidy them away
Then there was similar stash of car parts.
I need lap belts for the Pendine beach race next year. Stainless conduit for tidying up the headlamp/horn wiring. There is a kit to split the V-shaped front wishbones, that will allow me to set the castor accurately. Load of misc fittings/hardware too.
I'm particularly looking forward to doing the underhood fuel lines in period correct red transparent hose. Along with a fuel pressure regulator and a gauge that mounts to the Stromberg carb.
I put together a kit to fit telescopic shocks to the rear. Alas the security people rifled my suitcase and removed the shocks themselves. I guess they look dodgy on an x-ray - ho hum.
The stash has allowed me fully populate the dash panel, with the previously missing oil pressure gauge and pull switches.
Super happy with that. I'm going to do some very minor tweaks to space out the switches along the bottom a little more evenly.
I might eventually do some laser engraved knobs, but those will do for now.
Post by grumpynorthener on Dec 11, 2023 8:14:19 GMT
Don't know about the American based auto stores but every time I'm over in Canada 'Canadian Tire' is a must - it makes 'Halfrauds' look like a Fisher Price toy for 2 year olds - I always come back with a load of handy tools & kit
Don't know about the American based auto stores but every time I'm over in Canada 'Canadian Tire' is a must - it makes 'Halfrauds' look like a Fisher Price toy for 2 year olds - I always come back with a load of handy tools & kit
I'll give that a shot if/when I get to Canada.
Harbor Freight was good for tools - about the size of a regular British DIY shop - but purely for tools, with a strong focus to the automotive workshop, rather than racks of paintbrushes.
But Speedway Motors was my fave, as I was working about 15mins from there. Absolutely massive. They've got this in their foyer
Alas there are a few bits to browse, but it is more like Argos - make a list and they get it from out the back.
Don't know about the American based auto stores but every time I'm over in Canada 'Canadian Tire' is a must - it makes 'Halfrauds' look like a Fisher Price toy for 2 year olds - I always come back with a load of handy tools & kit
I'll give that a shot if/when I get to Canada.
Harbor Freight was good for tools - about the size of a regular British DIY shop - but purely for tools, with a strong focus to the automotive workshop, rather than racks of paintbrushes.
But Speedway Motors was my fave, as I was working about 15mins from there. Absolutely massive. They've got this in their foyer
Alas there are a few bits to browse, but it is more like Argos - make a list and they get it from out the back.
But they have 3 different catalogues to peruse.
I had to go back for more stuff
Very jealous of the American/Canadian auto parts store places
One job I wanted to finalise on the dash, was the pulls for the choke and hand throttle. Originally they just ran through rubber grommets on my car. But I wasn't happy with that for the new dash. The pull switches come with a chromed nut, I wanted to try and mimic that. So I got some stainless bolts, and threw them in the lathe, to make them match and drill a suitable hole in the middle. I'm the worlds worst machinist, and my cheap Chinese Mini Lathe is pororly setup, and not really suitable for stainless. But with a bit of patience - I had one done.
Drilled the larger holes in the prototype dash, and fitted them.
Yep happy with that. Time for one last home print of the dash, before commissioning a professional print.
Had a bit of project creep today - happens to us all I'm sure.
I started off by stripping out the remains of the wiring loom - that went to plan, and was as grim as expected.
Then I went looking for suitable fixings to attach the new fusebox etc. to. The bulkhead on the inside has a GRP panel. When I removed this I found this.
A combination of old school sound insulation and what appeared to be chipboard panels.
Hmmm - can't believe that is fire safe, that won't be going back in.
With that out of the way, I could take a good look at the bulkhead. No rust to speak of, but plenty of holes.
The fit between the pedals and steering column is pretty rough, because the padals have been replaced to add hydraulic brakes. I'll park that for another day, as I've got some plans in that area.
I did cut a rectangular hole for the wiring multiplug. I want to take the cab off in the future, and don't want to be cutting wires, so a couple of these multiplugs will take care of that.
From the engine bay side, I've circled loads of holes that need to be welded up, for a cleaner appearance. There is the project creep !! Quite a few of them were hidden behind stickers FFS.
One of the holes - marked with a B is a bullet hole !!
I've found a position for the fuel pressure regulator, to the right of the steering coloumn - which I'm happy with.
Hopefully the multiplug to the left of the steering column will be fairly well hidden.
Post by grumpynorthener on Dec 18, 2023 7:51:47 GMT
Reminds me of every Jupiter I restore - every bulkhead is riddled with redundant holes drilled by previous owners / users / bodgers of the vehicle - well done on the project creep - It's not just me then
