1975 Peugeot 304 S Cabriolet with hard and soft tops.

Yes. I was thinking a few bricks with some damp proof membrane on top (only because I have some) then timber on that would do the trick. Some sand bags would be handy as well.

Nothing really getting done recently and need to give myself a kick up the backside. Coming back from 2 weeks in Tenerife to the cold has hit me hard as it is baltic outside. Added to that my daughter bought a dog which I have to look after 3 days a week although that is a pain it is also a blast as how could you not love it. Cute or what?





Don't think her tree will see Xmas.

Some questions answered;

If you don't mind a factory sprayed black underseal type finish then the Dinitrol 4941 can go straight onto the underside of the car - it won't require a stone chip coating prior to this - If you would prefer a painted stone chip type finish then U Pols colour tinted 'Raptor' is the way to go - If you are going down the 4941 route then I would apply this after you have painted the car - Raptor route the reverse - do it prior to paint and then mask it up (In either case I would would apply a seam sealer to the seams prior to applying the final finish) 

The stretch carpet can go onto the primer surface with a suitable trim adhesive so you don't have to paint those areas  

Hi Ray and others, I've recently joined the forum having read about your 304 cabriolet refurbishment and wanted to know more about the rear panel's (where the bumper fit on to ) I am in the process of restoring a 304 cab myself and want to get hold of some. Please enlighten me. By the way great job thus far. Vojo.

Hi vojo. As Chris has already said start your own thread where you can post pictures (before, during and after)  as we would all like to see them.  There is also a section to introduce yourself.  Thanks for saying I have done a great job.

Regarding  panels they very very occasionally appear on a French website (Leboncoin.fr) and are sold very very quickly.  Plenty of second hand doors and wings etc available. Used rear panels sometimes come up for sale (maybe 3 in the last 2 years) but as they are welded components and have been cut off the condition is dubious, especially as they are all about 45 years old.

The rear panel on mine which you were asking about was not good but was useable above the bumper. The lower section was horrendous and had been bodged badly. I did my best to make a new one which is still a work on progress. Updated pics by this time next week (maybe)

A few pictures I have saved from earlier searches.  A new rear panel (the part you are asking about?)   A new old stock panel.  Rear wing repair sections. I bought section number 1 as there was no way I was making that. Section 2 I made. Section 3 I modified a BMW 2002 repair panel. section 4 I made. The full kit as shown is about €600 plus probably import duty, VAT etc.  The last picture is one I used for reference when making mine.   If you look on this website  airfieldclassics.co.uk/  they have restored 2 x 304 cabriolet and a 304 cabriolet shell. Useful for reference.   

Anything else just ask when you start you own thread as it will be looked at.

If it is the corner section where the bumper side mounting goes that was €108 per side when I got them about 18 months ago. They come from France and the phone number is 06 .51.87.67.08 plus the dialing code from whichever country you are in. The gentlemans name is Monsieur Suret and he does not speak English. You should be able to find him on Leboncoin and message him using Google translate if necessary. Hope that helps.

Hi vojo.  Just remembered another way to contact the man in France for the body repair panel. If you are on Facebook go to JPD Vintage and message him there.

Regarding your collection of parts do you by any chance have the fixings for the hardtop?  I have the front fixings but need the rear ones on the hardtop and the body side. Part numbers are 8461.06 for the levers (2 of them) and 8461-07 and 8461-08 (left and right) for the body catch.

Not a huge amount to show but my efforts are being hampered by the weather which makes working in the tent horrendous. Plus my daughters dog is not very well at present so I am having to spend more time with that. I have plans to rectify something I did not do properly previously but need to organise some parts first. More on that later, much later.
Anyway, I do have a small bit of space in the garage to work in ( basically the size of the bench) so I have started cleaning up the loose panels.
The sills have metal screw on decorative covers which have been replaced at some time.
There is underseal of sorts applied to them but not very well.





And unfortunately nothing on the bottom which is just the black factory coating so they have corroded.



The inside face is the same with no protection applied leaving the manufacturers labels visible.





No surprise that the inner surface is also corroding.



Inner surface cleaned up.





Outside cleaned and various dents exposed. Some dents I can't feel but the DA had shown them up. The deeper ones I will try to tap out a little then use Upol Fantastic to tidy up. The very shallow ones will probably be left as a thin stone chip will be applied and painted in body colour eventually. (Chris has previously recommended a smooth finish stone chip)

Some of the corrosion was treated with Jenolite then sanded again. The plan is to brush on Hydrate 80 on any previously corroded areas, apply etch primer then epoxy primer and that will do until it gets painted. That is both sills done.
I had started tonight on the inner surface of the front wings (fortunately they bolt on) which were also replaced at some time without any protection and are corroding quite badly but then the garage strip light expired . Got the little dog again tomorrow so more on Friday and Saturday hopefully.

Ok question time. A potentially stupid question but if you don't know ask before you f it up. The sills have been mostly been taken back to bare metal. I have applied two coats of Hydrate 80 Rust Killer at right angles to each other where required. Etch primer will be next onto bare shiny metal.

There is no point putting the etch primer over the Hydrate 80 is there?

Epoxy primer will go on next over everything after at least 24 hours.

Hydrate 80 question. It says apply the second coat after 20 to 30 minutes. Can the second coat go on the next day if necessary?

Thanks.