Keep on tweaking Ray - you will get there - if you can get the door gaps something like close then you can adjust / add / remove to get the gapping even on the door skin / aperture edges once you have the shell back in a rigid position
Thanks Chris. I was dreading a "omg why have you done that" comment ha ha.
Still not a lot to show but a bit more done in preparation for a lot happening. Today I made a new crossmember for the nearside and made the necessary cut in the inner sill for it to set into. The crossmember goes full with across the floor and incorporates the seat mountings but I am going to fit it in before the centre of the car. it should become obvious when I get it welded in.
Problem was I could not bend the metal properly even if it was only 1.1mm Then I remembered a Youtube video I stumbled across a few days ago. I managed to clamp the steel to the bench and hammered down the first flange. Then ran the 1mm slitting disc down the line of the second fold but leaving both ends untouched and cutting through the rest with small gaps at intervals. This weakened the metal enough to bend it easily and it was then welded on the inner face (unseen on the car) I then ran a dead of weld on the outer face and ground it off. Plenty strong enough, looks ok and will be covered in trim anyway.
The pictures will describe it better I hope.
Once everything is in place I can tap down the inner sill for a tighter fit against the crossmember. The crossmember carries on through the inner sill and attaches to the centre sill and floor.
Hopefully my next post will make everything clear as outer, centre and inner sill and crossmember will be welded in with gussets between the sills to stiffen everything up.
Not quite ready to show the progress on the sills and with the weather so hot it is impossible to survive in the tent so I am getting on with other things which will need to be done eventually. Instrument cluster has been stripped right down and cleaned then reassembled. The grime was unbelievable and the perspex had lots of polishing time with Brasso and Tcut but came out ok. The marks on the heater panel are I suspect made by some clown (me) allowing sparks from the grinder or slitting disc to hit it.
They can now be put up in the loft out of the way until they are needed. Most of the bulbs appear to be shot but they just look like 501 which are easy to get. No visible markings on them but i assume them to be 5 watt although I would have that that would be a bit bright for warning lights and dash illumination and I think capless bulbs are only available in 5 watt.
The dash top was horrendous and after much washing and rubbing with a very soft nail brush I have got it the best I can. Really need to spray it to get it back to a good black but what with? Bumper back to black or what? Any suggestions welcome.
Post by grumpynorthener on Jul 11, 2022 7:15:46 GMT
2 Watt capless bulbs are readily available (I've just purchased some) - I was always advised 2 watt for dash lamps & 5 watt for side / number plate lamps
2 Watt capless bulbs are readily available (I've just purchased some) - I was always advised 2 watt for dash lamps & 5 watt for side / number plate lamps
Thanks Chirs. I have only ever seen 5 watt for the uses you state. I'll source some 2 watt ones and fit them before packing it away until the car is ready for the dash to be refitted.
Hi Ray I'm still looking at your progressions,- re the front dash top, I recommend that you do not use any silicon based products in fact not only on the dash but anywhere it gives a false impression, in my opinion completely synthetic and certainly not classic. Since the element you are working on is vinyl on top of foam I suggest you use a product that you can get from ebay ref 314039337988. It's advertised as a filler cream but you can rub it on in orbital / rotary movements via a clean cloth very thinly - this I recommend. The best way to apply it to use a microfiber cloth much like quickly polishing shoes. If you are careful and apply it sparingly in stages allowing it to dry between coats and buffing you can control the amount of gloss, what you are looking for it a sheen not a full gloss. It can be used to fill scratches or holes indeed it can be used to make repairs, to do this its best applied via a small artists pallet knife. If you want to retain grain effect ( in my opinion you should do so ) there are techniques like using blue tac or even chewing gum to make a mould letting the moulding completely dry out and then pressing it onto the thickly applied areas at the optimum time (not immediately). The product will eventually dry out to a rubbery consistency and if the correct colouring is used its difficult to detect where the damage or blemishes were before use.
Hi Ray I'm still looking at your progressions,- re the front dash top, I recommend that you do not use any silicon based products in fact not only on the dash but anywhere it gives a false impression, in my opinion completely synthetic and certainly not classic. Since the element you are working on is vinyl on top of foam I suggest you use a product that you can get from ebay ref 314039337988. It's advertised as a filler cream but you can rub it on in orbital / rotary movements via a clean cloth very thinly - this I recommend. The best way to apply it to use a microfiber cloth much like quickly polishing shoes. If you are careful and apply it sparingly in stages allowing it to dry between coats and buffing you can control the amount of gloss, what you are looking for it a sheen not a full gloss. It can be used to fill scratches or holes indeed it can be used to make repairs, to do this its best applied via a small artists pallet knife. If you want to retain grain effect ( in my opinion you should do so ) there are techniques like using blue tac or even chewing gum to make a mould letting the moulding completely dry out and then pressing it onto the thickly applied areas at the optimum time (not immediately). The product will eventually dry out to a rubbery consistency and if the correct colouring is used its difficult to detect where the damage or blemishes were before use.
Thanks for that info. I have looked on Ebay but unfortunately that item number does not find anything. No longer available or incorrect number?
Ray It should be available I've just checked using 314039337988 (copy and pasted ) its leather and vinyl repair balm you can get it from china at a cheaper price but you will have to wait for the postage. Have you got any tips for fitting the 2 rear quarters ( the parts you got from France with embossed holes in for fixing the bumpers to the body ) ? I have ordered these parts and will be fitting them soon - reading your posting - originally the seams on these elements are showing, the joints are two flanges bent back on themselves and just tack / spot welded.
Ray It should be available I've just checked using 314039337988 (copy and pasted ) its leather and vinyl repair balm you can get it from china at a cheaper price but you will have to wait for the postage. Have you got any tips for fitting the 2 rear quarters ( the parts you got from France with embossed holes in for fixing the bumpers to the body ) ? I have ordered these parts and will be fitting them soon - reading your posting - originally the seams on these elements are showing, the joints are two flanges bent back on themselves and just tack / spot welded.
That's strange. I did copy and paste yesterday and it was not found but it is available today. Got some ordered now. Thanks.
Regarding fitting the small corner / quarter panels I wouldn't say I am the best person to ask. I applied weld through primer and tack welded the flanges on the inner face, then cleaned that as best I could and sprayed etch primer into the seam and used a blow gun to force the primer deep into the seam. Did the same on the inner face and then seam sealer. The outer panels are a visible seam but I have seen pictures where that has had a couple of tacks added to the outer face. I might do that later but the plan is to force seam sealer deep into the joint and wipe it off, then use something to scrape a little out leaving the joint visible but sealed at the same time. The upper flange was plug welded to the underside of the lip between the boot floor and rear panel.
Yes all that make perfect sense, do you know were there flanges originally on the bodyworks where the small panels we are discussing meet ? I am thinking this was so - its just that the body shell I am working on does not have the correct rear quarters on- the bumper bolt on holes are not embossed like the ones you have posted images of that you got from France. For the bumper to fit correctly the holes have to be embossed / raised so the correct angle is achieved. I think I will have to cut the existing body to allow for bending back to create such flanges. I will do exactly the same as you have done.
Yes all that make perfect sense, do you know were there flanges originally on the bodyworks where the small panels we are discussing meet ?
To the best of my knowledge the flanges were on the original panels when the car was new. I read on a French forum somebody saying they had put a couple of tacks of the outside of the panels just like the original was done. As that would not be sufficient (in my opinion) to secure the panels there must have been inner flanges welded together. Also the man who makes the panels had them inspected by the experts and compared to new original panels. There was one part of the arch profile not 100% so he went away and modified the buck /mould, made another panel and they approved it as being original so I think flanges were original.
Finally some visible progress and although it was already known I can confirm that U-Pol weld through primer is rubbish. I have had it with that crap and the tin has gone in the bin. I don't like wasting stuff but enough is enough. Some Bilt Hamber Etchweld has been ordered.
Funny how some plug weld is good (if a bit big) and others are useless and just fizz and spit. The bad ones have been ground out and done again
So on with the work. Centre sill was welded on and followed by the outer sill and then the centre sill was plug welded to the gussets I had fitted to the outer sill.
The inner sill was then welded on and as the section I had cut to gain access to where the sill welds on would not fold back into place so that was cut off and a new piece was shaped and fitted.
Still got some work to do at the rear of the sills and some plug welds to do when I get the U-Pol crap cleaned out. Then some dressing back of the welds followed by etch primer and other than the cross member that is the nearside sills done I think.
I had to give the neighbours a rest from the noise I have been making so I have been cleaning the dash which will have to be done at some point.
First up is the ashtray. Plastic with a coating of something which is peeling off. I was thinking of sanding it down smooth, applying adhesive promoter and then spray satin black. Other option might be to use Plastikote but that means buying a whole aerosol for just one small job. Would either of those options work or any suggestions please?
Next the dash metal work. It has or rather had a sort of black crackle finish. Quite smooth / delicate. More like a texture / stipple effect. Picture shows a good section. Aerosol probably but what?
Lastly the padded areas where the foam has broken away at the corners. I think I can repair the vinyl cover ok but need to build up the backing foam first so I have something to stick the vinyl to. I was thinking expanding foam but can see that being seriously messy. Any ideas please?
Anyone got any suggestions re the previous post please. I can probably sort the paint out the dash and a better description would be that it needs to look like a sheet of 120 or 240 grit painted. I could do with knowing the best options for the ashtray and the repairs to the damaged foam sections please. Thanks.
Post by grumpynorthener on Jul 27, 2022 14:04:31 GMT
Hi Ray - Apols - I missed your previous request - currently on hols but checking in occasionally so that's my excuse - some suggestions in order below:
Ash tray - I would do exactly what you suggested with the adhesion promotor & matt / satin black - I avoid the Plasticote range of products like the plague due to the fact that they are both useless & expensive
Dash panel - Frost Restoration do a wrinkle finish that is pretty good - you may wish to experiment on a few small sample cards first to ensure that you achieve a matching / best effect -https://www.frost.co.uk/vht-black-wrinkle-finish-310ml/#&gid=1&pid=1 product link below
Vinyl pad - Previously I have used body filler to make up voids in dash pads - you have to apply it very carefully to match the profile & shape and you need it to be has neat as possible - It would be better applied in layers if the damage / void is deep - you can carefully shape it afterwards - A dremel / craft type drill fitted with a suitable abrasive head works best but probably with a sharp craft knife / wood chisel etc if not - if you shape it with a hand worked abrasive this needs to be done with care as the filler is harder than the expanded foam and could result in making the damaged area much worse whilst attempting to improve it - Use a high quality automotive trimming adhesive to glue the vinyl back to the foam pad - the adhesive must be high temperature resistant otherwise the adhesive will just let go when the sun warms the dash area up
Don't hesitate if require any further info / help - Chris
Brilliant Chris. I knew you were away (Canada?) and wasn't expecting you to see my questions.
The ashtray sounds an easy fix and the Frost wrinkle finish I will have a look at tonight.
Body filler for the dash pad is something I would not have thought of trying. I have a dremel with various heads so will try that and some appropriate adhesive.
i missed this one too. ref the dash panel , if you have any building going on near you , see if you can blag/skip dive a small (and to them unusable) chunk of kingspan insulation. this could be sanded to shape and bonded in place. if you are looking for a very light textured finish , get the item good and warm with a hairdryer and hold the can further away than you normally would. hit the piece with a hairdryer between each pass and you can build up quite a nice texture.
i missed this one too. ref the dash panel , if you have any building going on near you , see if you can blag/skip dive a small (and to them unusable) chunk of kingspan insulation. this could be sanded to shape and bonded in place. if you are looking for a very light textured finish , get the item good and warm with a hairdryer and hold the can further away than you normally would. hit the piece with a hairdryer between each pass and you can build up quite a nice texture.
Good idea. I think the area needing work is too small for that but I will have a look at doing that. Plenty of building work nearby so material supply shouldn't be a problem.
Not a lot to show considering how much time I have spent on the car but I have all the materials for the dash now so I will try to do that on Monday and Tuesday when I can't work on the car itself because I have my daughters little dog to look after. The dash can then be boxed and dumped in the loft until next year.
The near side sill is complete other then the crossmember which I will do when the floor is fitted and possibly a gusset between the inner and centre sill where the seat mounting will be.
On the offside I have the outer sill and centre sill almost ready for welding and the holes in the inner sill for plug welding onto the gussets in the outer sill are drilled and ready.
The front end of the sill/floor/inner arch area is a mess and needs some attention.
I have made a frame to help keep the alignment of the 4 mounting points for the subframe.
It is a mess at the junction of the bulkhead, floor and sill which will test my ability or lack of ability.
I need to try and make the dimple which the outer subframe mounting fits onto. The floor shape has to match the reinforcing plate and these get welded together. The floor I can possibly hammer into shape but the reinforcing plate (1.5mm) I think I will have to make in sections as I have already tried to heat and hammer that into shape which didn't work. Next post will hopefully be the dash all cleaned up and painted.
