1953 Jowett Jupiter - Ho So Nearly Finished

Am busy working on the electrics so there may be a few days silence on progress while it is sorted and inspected.
Meanwhile back to the delayed wheel balancing.
The Jowett wheels are 16" and narrow profile, Owing to the difficulty mounting them on modern wheel balancers without the correct fitment, I have found even specialist tyre suppliers will statically balance them, often on a vertical balancer.
Fortunately static balancing can be 'done at home' using such as an inexpensive conventional 'bubble' balancer.
However those readily available have in my experience two major drawbacks 1) the range of centre holes sizes is limited to ~35 to 100mm dia, and 2} the method of levelling using a diminutive and crudely mounted spirit level makes them less sensitive.
So hereby my solution: first make an adaptor to fit the Jowettb 150mm hole to within the range of the centering cone on the balancer - a simple aluminium disc.

Note the wheels do not have 8 studs - these threaded holes were to mount the disc on my lathe faceplate so I could turn all the diameters concentrically in one mounting for balance!
Then note I have covered the horrible little spirit level with a 20mm mirror tile.  I have a laser pen mounted on the rafter of my garage which shines down onto the mirror centre and reflects up onto the garage ceiling. (forgive the rubbish in the rafters - household jobs on hold at present)


I mark the disc to keep it in the same orientation to negate any effect of the mirror not being glued exactly square on the wheel holder. First mark the laser point on the ceiling with the wheel holder empty, and then mount the wheel and balance it by adding weights to return the laser to this fixed point.  It is far more accurate indeed almost over sensitive.  I do have a large diameter accurate spirit level on a mount which I can slide onto the centre spindle as a double check but it has not been outpaced by the laser yet! 
Now the bad news - when I came to balance the new Jupiter wheels  - they were made in a batch of 100 a few years back with slightly wider rims and thicker material - but also have a smaller centre hole size of 125mm....... Arghh....

So another aluminum blank on order for a new adaptor!
I believe this change will have been because the remade wheel batch was instigated by club members in the racing scene, and original Jupiter wheels tended to crack under racing loads - usually between the wheel holes and the hub cap retaining studs.  Hence as well as using a thicker steel I assume the extra metal was also added by reducing the hole size consistent with the the available flat surface on the brake drums.  
So another delay!

Some progeess made on the electrics - hampered by the usual setbacks like a faulty foot dip switch and still awaiting new batteries.....
I have remade the under bonnet wiring loom using the same snap connector blocks between the bonnet and bulkhead to make bonnet removal easy - electrically at least.

Herewith the under bonnet harness ready to be installed. The protected joints in the centre joins have retained Lucas 4.7 bullet connectors albeit new ones well greased.  However please forgive the non originality of the lighting connectors where I just don't like Lucas bullet connectors in potentially wet conditions - so have used heavy duty waterproof Tyco 3-pin snap connectors. Fiddly to fit but seem very secure with silicone seals on each wire.

Although I have chosen not to re-fit the fog lamps these were a routine fit to the Jupiter which has as standard a fog lamp swith on the dash, hence I have left the fog lamp wiring in place and I have poked the red sealed ends out to see in the attached fitted photo.  So they could be re-instated later if needs be - but we don't get fog like in the early 50's.




Wow it's nice and clean under there but quite a squeeze to get under the bonnet so far back and then turn around to work above yourself.
Chris had replaced the standard dash wiring and got the car running but there is a lot of ancillary wiring for modern requirements which I had added and have now remade.


The new ivory starter button is now in the correct place to the right of the centre console. To the left I have re-instated the cigar lighter socket but have obtained a power socket which has a plastic body and therefore can have the polarity reversed so that I can use a USB charger in it.  A bit of a pain to fit as they are of larger outer diameter than original so some drilling out and adjusting of metal and wooden dash panels. I decided on this route rather than fit a permanent USB charger point - I can keep the original look with a lighter in the socket and also because USB charge points have some residual current leak if on a permanent live circuit unless they are fitted with an on/off switch - which could be overlooked on leaving the car for long periods.

After re-checking all the standard bits I have made small dash panels which will be relatively inconspicuous under the wood dash either side of the steering wheel to house the extras.
To the right the screen wash pump and a switch for the clock (inset in the speedo). This is obviously usually permanently wired, but as it was refurbished to the traditional workings with balance wheel and electrical contacts (too small for easy quartz conversion!), it means I can save wear and tear on it when left for longer periods.

To the left, from right to left: #hazard fashers, #cooling fan push button/illum (white) switch, #rear fog lamp push button/illum amber switch, #red flashing warning for low brake fluid level, #indicators/flashers green lamp, and far left a #green warning lamp for front fog lamps already wired to switch for when/if fog lamps ever fitted.
There was enough juice in the old batteries to test these and all the lights, and all appear to be working as planned.
Have left the headlamp rims off until I have had time to set the beams against the garage door - they are a bit delicate to remove without damaging so will leave refitting until this is done.
Will tidy and strap the wiring bundles under the dash - and there is the radio to do at some time.
Next week a move on to fitting seals and boots on the cockpit floor around the steering collumn/pedals.  At least I'll be kneeling and not bent double backwards......

I called to see Garth & the Jupiter this morning 



Making good progress with wiring completed & commissioned - column & pedal gaiters fitted (all bespoke / custom made) 



New under bonnet wiring harness along with new water hoses for the engine etc 



Looking really smart 



Its due back at my workshop towards the end of April - I need to make some minor revisions on the B post flanges in order to make the new door seals fit but other than that it will heading down the road this summer 

Further progress has been slow due to weather - but now moving again.  Electrics all checked and OK except for an intermittent blast on the very loud two-tone horns.  Traced to slipring in steering column earthing out.  Ouch - this means taking the steering column out again - so this has been left for the moment - a fiddly job to do when all else under control.  Why do these inaccessible gremlins come out at the last minute just as you think you are getting close?!

Meanwhile have worked on restoring the internal trim, starting with the boot area.  The boot is accessed from inside the cockpit on these SA model Jupiters (no external boot lid) and consists of a riveted aluminium canister which is slid into an aperture behing the seat.  Except that the always tight fit had become too tight with all the structure rebuild and time has been spent chiselling out all the rivets to reduce the width by 7/8" so it would to fit.  Re-riveted all the seams along with Tiger Seal sealant so it should be 30m waterproof.

Cannot show this part as my phone with photos went in a hot wash with my overalls...... don't blame the wife or she may make me do the laundry.

I have now re-fitted the boot and modified/re-covered the surrounding trim panels and boot door to suit.  I am not sure what the original boot door consisted of if there was one, but I have added a lockable lid to keep my sandwiches safe at car meetings.

Herewith the result (courtesy of new phone) - I have stopped short of completing or fixing all the side panels as Chris is taking the car back shortly to do some work on the B post area to get the door seal fits right.  There may be a bit of welding so best keep the trim clear for the moment.




The last photo shows a small sectionn of the mulbeery furflex trim which will eventually finish all the top edge and match the door seals.
The box under the boot door is the battery cover housing 2 new 6V - 13 plate heavy duty batteries to give 88 Ah which helps with turning over the slighlty higher compression engine in this car.

I will next install the radio and loudspeaaker mounting - after which it will be ready for Chris and the doors.

Meanwhile am also finishing off the new wood dash - a few gremlins here too which I will note later when the beech tree has finished depositing its pollen on my new varnish....

Ah - have found a couple of backed up photos



First is the aluminium boot, and then the hole it wouldn't quite fit ......

Idling with odds and ends:

Windscreen wipers, demister hose and tidying/insulating battery box.

Also trial fitted the door/quarter light to windscreen seal - initially with double sided tape but if all looks OK after finish of door fit I will use proper adhesive.

Looks about right!

Dusk tonight I will allign the headlamps and re-fit outer rims.

It sure looks the part now, nearly ready for summer whenever thats going to be!

a truly sumptuous interior coming together there. is your stock of vapour barrier holding out chris?

Give me a shout when you need any more.

I am impressed though slightly confused by the passenger pegs in the second last picture.