Question for Chris as I am getting confused. I was going to use epoxy primer on the old 304 to protect each panel as I work my way round the car. But, I have now read that epoxy primer is actually a sealer and that you can not sand it. Will be ok for the floor pans and under the wings prior to using Dinitrol but now not sure about the external bodywork which will be open to the elements for months. Help please.
Never surprised at the amount of myth's / old wives tales etc that arise in the use of products - Epoxy primer can be fully sanded without issue - its the best product that you can use for protection on bare metal especially on bare metal areas / panels that are going to be left for long durations / periods of time which is why the shotblasting industry tends to favour it for bodyshells & panels - Its also non moisture absorbent unlike many other automotive primers
Thanks for clearing that up Chris. It is the non moisture absorbent factor that makes me want to use it.
Random thought but how about this? Is anyone thinking of getting any epoxy primer? Jawel Paints are selling a 4Lt kit (3LT epoxy primer and 1 Lt hardener) for £67 plus £10 post. Their trade branch is selling 3 x 4Lt kits for £99 plus £10 post. Looks the same but has their Trade Paints own label on it. I am up for it of 2 others are and would also want the mixing cups. Just need to sort out the post in addition. Any thoughts?
I potentially might be, though I suspect the extra cost for you or I to send it to each other and the third person might just bring it back up to the original price, given how many couriers won't touch paint. I'm a bit concerned that it's a 2K product, but then I put epoxy on my previous restoration without a big problem and could always roll it on and flat it down later.
I'd have responded earlier, but I couldn't find the post, and couldn't remember which site I'd seen it on.
Random thought but how about this? Is anyone thinking of getting any epoxy primer? Jawel Paints are selling a 4Lt kit (3LT epoxy primer and 1 Lt hardener) for £67 plus £10 post. Their trade branch is selling 3 x 4Lt kits for £99 plus £10 post. Looks the same but has their Trade Paints own label on it. I am up for it of 2 others are and would also want the mixing cups. Just need to sort out the post in addition. Any thoughts?
I potentially might be, though I suspect the extra cost for you or I to send it to each other and the third person might just bring it back up to the original price, given how many couriers won't touch paint. I'm a bit concerned that it's a 2K product, but then I put epoxy on my previous restoration without a big problem and could always roll it on and flat it down later.
I'd have responded earlier, but I couldn't find the post, and couldn't remember which site I'd seen it on.
Carriage could be the sticking point for this. Just thought it was worth asking. I would be using a roller and flatting it months later so safe enough. Gloves and goggles for the application and a dust mask for flatting if done dry.
Ray - Just for info, I rollered my bonnet with 2k primer last year as I knew it would be some considerable time before I could deal with further work.I have come to check it and the primer has done its job wonderfully, except for the bit that I missed which is showing signs of a little rust which is easily treated. When my first repaint was done over 30 years ago, I was advised after bare metalling the car, to rattle can prime it and then an acquaintance would come along and top coat it, which was done. I had no idea that the primer would absorb moisture from the atmosphere and a couple of years later the top coat began to blister. Discussion with Chris confirmed that damp in the primer was likely to be the cause, hence this time the 2k and a roller (no air fed mask to spray). Things are going well but very very slowly due to other commitments but Chris's advice here has been first class. Take a bow GN.
Badwolf. Totally agree. The information from Chris is invaluable and a big help to many of us. Applying the epoxy primer with a roller is something I would not have thought of (I knew spraying was out of the question for me) but I was watching "Urchfab" on Youtube as he was building a 1959 Ford 100E onto a MX5 chassis and he used a roller for the primer. Like you it will be sometime before the top coat is applied hence the need to avoid absorbing moisture so epoxy it has to be.
Edit. Just had a look back at "Urchfab" and while he did use a brush and roller for the primer it was Upol P88 Nitro Cellulose High Build Primer he used. End result looked good though.
Badwolf. Totally agree. The information from Chris is invaluable and a big help to many of us. Applying the epoxy primer with a roller is something I would not have thought of (I knew spraying was out of the question for me) but I was watching "Urchfab" on Youtube as he was building a 1959 Ford 100E onto a MX5 chassis and he used a roller for the primer. Like you it will be sometime before the top coat is applied hence the need to avoid absorbing moisture so epoxy it has to be.
Edit. Just had a look back at "Urchfab" and while he did use a brush and roller for the primer it was Upol P88 Nitro Cellulose High Build Primer he used. End result looked good though.
Use of a decent mini roller & brush will be fine - use a gloss roller rather than a cheap sponge roller (which generates far too many air bubbles into the wet primer because of the open textured face of sponge) - cellulose primer is moisture absorbent so that's something that you need to avoid if you are storing the panels / leaving the primed surface for a period of time before applying the final finish coats
Use of a decent mini roller & brush will be fine - use a gloss roller rather than a cheap sponge roller (which generates far too many air bubbles into the wet primer because of the open textured face of sponge) - cellulose primer is moisture absorbent so that's something that you need to avoid if you are storing the panels / leaving the primed surface for a period of time before applying the final finish coats
Just had a look at the video upload dates and it looks like the primer was applied in January 2020 and the top coat in April 2020 so he might have problems later.
Thanks for the info on the roller type as I would probably gone for foam.
Ray. Sorry, I had forgotten that there is a foam roller as well. I got a box of cheap 4" gloss rollers from my local DIY cash and carry and used them along with a 1" brush for the fidley bits. Wrapped them in a plastic bag until the first coat had flashed off then used them for the second and threw them away. I hate chucking stuff but in this case it's not worth even trying to clean them. Got a great finish but was working in an outside shed in September when the weather turned and other life matters got in the way. Chris probably thinks that I will never get this job finished...sadly he's probably right!!!
Chris - Does Hydrate 80 offer any rust protection after it has been applied and cured, without further primer etc. If yes, for roughly how long. It's just that there is a small section which I have missed with the 2k primer which has flash rusted during winter storage. No problem to treat with H80 but I don't want to mix up a batch of primer for this small section which I can deal with after I have completed the final profiling. You might remember this bonnet was primed out of sequence as it needed to be protected during storage as the project was held over due to lack of time and bad weather. Thanks
Chris - Does Hydrate 80 offer any rust protection after it has been applied and cured, without further primer etc. If yes, for roughly how long. It's just that there is a small section which I have missed with the 2k primer which has flash rusted during winter storage. No problem to treat with H80 but I don't want to mix up a batch of primer for this small section which I can deal with after I have completed the final profiling. You might remember this bonnet was primed out of sequence as it needed to be protected during storage as the project was held over due to lack of time and bad weather. Thanks
You should be fine just treating the area with the Hydrate 80 - I have left items for lengthy periods like this before eventually getting around to applying a primer / final finish to them
Not sure how it handles damp conditions? Last summer we cleaned off and treated the front bumper iron on maladdo's mk5 fiesta , with the view to paint it the following day. There was quite a heavy dew overnight and it threw the exposed areas a milky colour from the usual bluey/purpley/black colour that it goes. I wasnt overly concerned as its not a visible piece and just painted and waxed it up anyway.
Not sure how it handles damp conditions? Last summer we cleaned off and treated the front bumper iron on maladdo's mk5 fiesta , with the view to paint it the following day. There was quite a heavy dew overnight and it threw the exposed areas a milky colour from the usual bluey/purpley/black colour that it goes. I wasnt overly concerned as its not a visible piece and just painted and waxed it up anyway.
That's because the Hydrate had not fully cured before it was exposed to damp / wet conditions
Aaaaaahhhh....had neither the luxury of time or cover. Will try and ensure j have both next time i do anything similar.
A Hot air gun works wonders & dries it within minutes due to the fact that its initially water based until cured
What would the overpaint time be with forcing it Chris? Got some tinkering time to fill over the weekend and the weather looks like it will be playing ball.
A Hot air gun works wonders & dries it within minutes due to the fact that its initially water based until cured
What would the overpaint time be with forcing it Chris? Got some tinkering time to fill over the weekend and the weather looks like it will be playing ball.