Had my second fail to proceed moment today. Due to being in between registrations last week I couldn't use the car last weekend as I was waiting new plates with its new (old) number. So this morning I had to drive over to the bank to pay a cheque in. It was foggy but looked like it was clearing so I decided the 6 was the car to use. So off we went. Now I've always had some concerns about the ammeter as it seems to spend more time in the -ve half than the +ve Today it was solidly -ve, what was different today? I had the lights on for the first time hmm. Got where I was going, bank now shut Saturdays due to Covid :-( Never mind headed home via Screwfix to pick up a few bits. Returned to the car to find it only slowly turning over, looks like the ammeter is right then! Walked home and grabbed some jump leads and a support car and soon had it back home.
Stuck the battery on charge and when started later the ammeter was in the +ve. My theory then is when faced with the demands of topping up the battery after a few weeks of inactivity, supplying a hungry Bosch pump and keeping the lights on the alternator whilst clearly working lacks oomph. There doesn't appear to be any way to tell which model is fitted apart from being able to exclude the early 15AC from the candidate list as there's no external regulator. Given there's not much in it price wise it seems to make sense to go for a A127 variant acknowledging there's some debate on whether the ammeter can cope with the extra amperage.
Working on the premise that the Alternator ought to have enough oomph to supply the car's electrical demands on its own in normal circumstances I decided an upgrade was in order. Decided against going for an A127 as I found a supplier selling upgraded 18ACRs which visually are indistinguishable from the standard 15ACR fitted.
New alternator arrived during the week and it was a straightforward job to swap. Quick test drive revealed the ammeter went strongly into charge initially before dropping back to neutral and no combination of electrical demand could push it into discharge for more than an instant, apart from the Indicators interestingly. I'm guessing that's because the alternator doesn't have chance to stabilise before the intermittent nature of the demand disappears.
It may be wishful thinking but the car felt like it was idling better with less fluctuation. I wonder if the original alternator was struggling to supply enough volts for the pump at idle.
Apologies to all for not updating this thread, work and life just always seemed to push it to the back of the to do list. I resolve to do better now I’ve joined the ranks of the Retired!
Picking up where we left off then, new uprated Alternator received and fitted without issues. It may be my imagination but car definitely seems to have a much more stable idle, I’m putting this down to the Fuel Pump now having a generous helping of amps available compared to the meagre 28A max from the original 15ACR. There is a postscript to this in that roughly a year after fitting the new Alternator I decided to travel to my Uncle’s 80th Birthday in style and got the TR6 out ready. Jumping in it I set off and as I drove up the road did my first instrument scan, Pants!, Ammeter showing full discharge, grrr. A quick scan under the bonnet revealed all belts and wiring were where they needed to be so that’s the Alternator U/S then. Further checks with a meter confirmed that to be the case. I couldn’t find the receipt but pretty sure it was more than a year old resigned myself to having suffered from the bane of all Classic Car owners, rubbish new reproduction parts. Another Alternator was ordered and fitted and we were up and running again.
Next incident of note was an excursion to Stokesley Classic Car show.
This was a two car job as we were 5 plus Puppy so Oliver my Son had the job of driving the TR6 and the rest of us followed in the modern. On the way Oliver had used the screen wash and on arrival reported that the Wipers weren’t working. My initial instinct that it would be an electrical issue were quickly dashed when it transpired what he actually meant was the Driver’s side wiper wasn’t working, Passenger side was happily doing its thing as commanded. Back home after an awful lot of dismantling due to the Rack and Wheelbox seemingly being the components Triumph started with on the production line it transpired that the Gear had fallen off the Spindle in the Wheelbox. They are only staked on and once again the curse of the Classic Car owner strikes, it was clearly not the original being much too shiny and clean for a 50 year old component. New one ordered and fitted restored normal service. Fast forward a year or so and caught in a shower I reached for the Wipers, this time the Passenger side decided not to play ball. I think I have an idea what that’s going to be I was heard to mutter. Another new Wheelbox was ordered on spec and fitted rather more easily than the Driver’s side requiring only the Glovebox to be removed along with the heater ducting. As expected failure mode exactly as predicted.
Its a source of concern to me how mechanically illiterate many of Today’s Drivers are so it was something of a surprise to be flagged down by a youngish Lad who had followed me through Saltburn to ask if I knew my back Wheel was wobbling? I affirmed that I was not aware of that and was very grateful to him for noticing and taking the time to tell me.
Now you would assume that a wobble of sufficient magnitude to be visible to other motorists would be detectable at the wheel but there was not a hint of anything being amiss. I drove home very steadily for investigation. My big worry was rear Hub failure, this is quite common on elderly IRS Triumphs. Once home I got the car up on stands and using a dial gauge on the rim of each Wheel found that the Driver’s side rear was varying by 5mm (I’m still amazed anyone noticed that) well out of spec which Triumph give as 1mm give or take. Passenger side was slightly better but sill out of spec at 1.5mm, both fronts were OK.
Swapping the Wheels around proved that the wobble moved with the Wheel so it was bent Wheels we were dealing with not something more fundamental. I quickly discounted the idea of seeking out second-hand replacements and bought two new ones instead. As always one job leads to another, the car came with plenty of “Bling” including Stainless Steel rim embellishers, these are secured by fairly crude sprung barbs that bite into the wheel, I just can’t bring myself to destroy the Powder coated finish of the new Wheels so decided not to run the car with them any more. That does now mean I need to strip and repaint the fronts!
If you are unfamiliar with IRS Triumphs you may not have heard of the “Triumph Twitch” The system is not very complicated, it comprises of an Alloy Trailing arm secured at two points on the Chassis or Bodyshell for location. The hub is part of the casting so basically the Driveshaft’s only role is to provide drive unlike some more sophisticated arrangements where it can play a role as a suspension arm. In Triumph’s case the Driveshaft is essentially a very short Propshaft having a Universal Joint at each end and a sliding joint in the middle to cater for the varying distance and camber change that the shaft has to deal with. The system works when everything is new, but wears quickly leading to (if you are lucky) knocks and clicks, or worse when wear creeps into the sliding joint it ceases to slide when under load and the Driveshaft becomes unable to change length to accommodate the demands of the upright and stop it moving. This usually manifests itself when you are giving it beans, probably in 2nd out of a tight bend or similar, everything locks up and then as you reach for 3rd it all relaxes, unlocks and resets itself to where it wants to be with a resulting change of direction, the “Twitch” You will have probably guessed by now we have the “Twitch”
For many years upgraded Driveshafts of various types have been available, ranging from better Universal Joints, Teflon lined sliding joints, both and at the top of the Tree come joints that replace both with modern CV joints as used on every front Wheel drive car on the road today. I elected to go for a pair of the latter. Available from a number of suppliers the word in the TR world was that the best come from Classic Driving Development from whom a pair were duly delivered.
Installation is relatively straightforward, especially as they are supplied with brand new Hubs which is a double win as:-
a) You don’t have to remove the original Hub from the old Driveshaft which requires an especially butch Puller (which I didn’t have) and
b) There are numerous tales of Hubs failing so new ones give added peace of mind.
It probably took 90 minutes to get the car up on stands, remove the Brakes and pull the Driveshafts out. No surprise that the Passenger side exhibited significant slop in the sliding joint. Reassembly was slightly more complicated on the Driver’s side in that the CV joints are quite a bit larger in diameter than the universal joints and due to the Exhaust occupying some of the space meant that the exhaust needed to be dropped to allow the shaft to be lifted into place before re-attaching the Exhaust.
Another foible of the Triumph IRS system is Triumph’s slightly perplexing decision to use fine threaded studs to secure the Hub in the Trailing Arm. Again when new this probably wasn’t an issue but after 50 years of corrosion and careless over tightening of the associated Nuts means that you will almost certainly be dealing with a number of stripped threads. Classic Driving Development do an updated Stud kit which uses stepped coarse threaded studs to address this issue. Supplied with a jig and correct Taps its a straightforward job to drill the existing holes out to the correct size with the Drill bit supplied and cut new threads before fitting the new Studs. As it turned out all my Studs were fine but you can be certain if I’d not made provision my experience would have been otherwise!
In other news the Car has been serviced and passed two MOTs. The Oil change aspect of the service saw me win a significant increase in Oil pressure, I suspect the PO had used a modern thin Synthetic Oil totally unsuited to the larger tolerances of a 50 year old Classic. Valve clearances were a bit hit and miss so were all reset eliminating the slightly noisy top end and the Rocker Cover got a Silicone Gasket which seems to have sorted the Oil leak. The Brakes have always seemed just a little bit “Meh” The Servo & Master Cylinder appeared to be original so I took a chance and bought replacements which improved matters enormously. I intend to send the originals away to Past Parts for refurbishment. In the last few weeks I replaced the Brake Pads, although they were clearly barely used their heritage was uncertain, I’m hoping the Mintex versions I’ve fitted will improve things further but the weather has not allowed for road testing thus far.
With the weather in mind I’ve finally assembled all the necessary hardware to fit the Hardtop which is on the list of jobs still to do. Other jobs on the list is a partial rewire, I’m plagued with issues with the rear lights, its always dodgy connections and the loom has been substantially got at. New ones are quite reasonable so replacement seems to be the best option. At the same time I’m thinking of fitting an immobiliser to provide more (some) security when the car is left unattended away from home.