1972 Ford Granada coupe continuous build/improvement.

Can you not pull an injector wire off the bank thats not firing and use a multi meter to see if you have power when cranking?

Do all the injector wires run back individually to the ECU or do the grounds splice together and just the activation wires go back individually to the ECU?  Just wondering if there is a fault on one wire which is affecting the whole bank of cylinders.

Didn't touch the car this whole week including the weekend where I usually do at least something on it. Weather wasn't good enough for long enough to really get something done and on the other hand I'd had several suggestions on possible ways to proceed that I also needed some time to just make sense of it all and come up with a decent game plan. Hopefully this week I will get a bit further with it all.

Wahoo. Are all cylinders now running? based on what you were saying before that nothing on that bank was running, you have fixed 1+3 might be worth checking if 5 is firing as expected "assuming a 135 cylinder order".

Great news that its running better now. its very rewarding to get a simple issue like that ironed out.

Yesterday I unhooked the memory feed from the ecu for an hour or so by pulling the fuse before reinstating it and seeing how the engine ran. Unfortunately it didn't make much of a difference. It needed three attempts before it started and ran. From then on it starts, it runs, it responds to throttle ok-ish (just not as silky as before), but it is generally really lumpy. Instead of a nice continuous vrrrrrrrrrr sound its more of a vrump vrump vrump vrump. I have tried pulling the spark plug leads one by one to see if this tells me anything on cylinders not working, but it really didn't. No real change in running. Sound wise without the ignition lead attached a ticking sound develops, but this also happens on all cylinders. This engine is good at hiding it's faults as it will run even on half the number of cylinders.

As I know I have spark, I still suspect the injectors even though I know they get their signals at the connector maybe there's a problem further down the line. I'm also contemplating air leaks on the intake system, but didn't have anything available to test this with and maybe a set of fresh(er) sparkplugs would make a difference.

I'm contemplating delving under the intake next...

Ah yes, hunting was the term I was looking for. I made a start with brake cleaner yesterday, but there was just too little in the aerosol left. It would only spray when held at certain angles that did not match with where the intake joins the heads or where vacuum lines are attached. 

I'll buy some new stuff and try again before anything else. Although after switching the ignition leads the right way round it wasn't exactly as smooth as I was used to, it didn't hunt like it does now after "clearing" the ecu.

Also probably will bite the bullet on new sparkplugs...

The article in the link in Matt's post shows even the experts can struggle with a problem car despite full factory support and you have done well to get this far. Unfortunately I don't think there is anything relevant to your issue in the link but it does make interesting reading.
Swapping the HEGO leads over would definitely be worth doing. Unfortunately I don't have any Ford contacts I could ask for you but if it was a BMW or a Toyota I could have.
Going back to the video you posted if you are unsure if there is an occasional miss a good way to check (without diagnostic equipment) is to hold your hand a few inches from the tail pipe and you can feel a sort of "puff" when there is a missfire.

I haven't updated the Granada tales of woe for quite a while on here. But now it's time for an update.

As a recap I got the granada running early january after replacing 150 or so wires in the ecu loom. That in itself had taken months gathering wires, pins, insight etc. When it finally turned over it would start and run, but crappy. This was pretty quickly diagnosed as an ignition lead swap and after that the engine ran better. Still not as I was used to from it. And this is where it got difficult. I tried lots of things. Verified fuel, verified spark, changed the plugs and leads, looked for vacuum leaks etc. But nothing much made any difference. I was done with it for a bit as I was dealing with a serious health issue at the same time.

Last week I started again. I checked with a friend how he felt I should procede and went to do so. Things got even worse after that. when the engien ran it would idle very badly. But on higher revs run normally. The ecu gave only one HEGO/Lambda code so my attention turned to fixing that. First test was to just swap them over under the car, this should see the error code change banks if the sensor was faulty, but remain on the same bank if it was a wiring issue. So to do this test I rolled the car out unde it's own power and shut it off. I jacked it up, supported it with a stand and switched the plugs. I went to fire it up and it would barely run. Worse than ever. Disconnected the ecu for a while to clear it and try again. Same result. Disconnect ecu again, swap leads bak and try again. Still no joy. Not even trying to catch, just going round and round. This confused me. How can such a small change cause this? I winched the car back inside and gave up for a bit.

Talking with my friend we decided to have a look together on sunday. Checking fuel and spark and injectors. So we checked for spar which was present. We checked for fuel in the valve in the fuel lines and it came out pressurised so we had fuel. As the engine didn't improve we checked the injector signals again and they were still fine as well. Running out of ideas I suggested pulling a plug to see how fouled it was, could it be too foul for it to spark? At this point I noticed that the removed plug was totally dry where I had expected it to be wet with unburned fuel. This prompted a deeper invistigation into the fuel supply. Both pumps were checked and working. We decided to try and run the car off a 5 liter jerrycan. And low and behold. After priming the system by turning the ignition on and off a couple of times it ran on the first start. It was a little poppety still. But shutting off and restarting and it ran pretty nicely. Not 100% free of shake, but not the deep hunting from before either and no popping and responsive to the throttle.

So after all this, the conclusion for now is that it was just out of fuel. There was enough to get some action but not enough for normal operation.

I have since put in 12 liters with a further 6 as a backup and an injector/fuel system cleaner. Monday I started the car for a minute or two and it ran immediately and nicely. Yesterday I had time for a serious bit of driving around the estate and it proved very driveable. I took a video after a few minutes:



And another after 10 more minutes of driving, spirited driving....

It's even smooter now.



It's still early days, but this is inspiring confidence and restoring mojo!

So I'll now be getting on with it all buttoning it up and finshing the wiring for the remaining components and tidying the final install of the new wiring and fuseboxes.

It should be done no later than end of the month. Unfortunately just too late for easter meetings/tours.